Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 20, 2003 02:11am | #1

   Timberwolf blades make my little Grizzly 14" saw cut way better than it did.  They have great customer service.  Blades are "low-tension" so an advantage on the smaller saws.

   http://www.suffolkmachinery.com

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   DennisS | Sep 22, 2003 07:49am | #7

   Jamie -

   I'm always intrigued with this "low tension", uhhmmm,... phenomenon. Given that most saws have a tension gauge (worthless or otherwise) - how do you tension a 'low tension' blade?

   I mean, if you have a setting for a 1/2" blade on the built in gauge, where do you set the gauge for one of these low tension blades?

   As to the original question/poster ....

   I've always used Amana blades 'coz that's what's sold at my local blade selling place of choice. I've used some rather high priced (well, more than "rather" high priced) carbide blades from 3/8" to 3/4". They were dream blades. Leaving a finish that only needed a little sanding to go to the glue bench. But the cost is really unreasonable.

   I've since gone to bimetal blades (still Amana from the same local source) and I'm pretty satisfied with them. 3/8" seems to be a pretty good comprimise with respect to cutting curves and doing general ripping. But given a budget for a collection of blades, I'd go with a 3/4" for big time ripping/resawing and work down from there for other tasks.

   I learned the hard way that a skip-tooth blade is not sharpenable by my local sharpening shop. Skip tooth or alternate something or the other. So before spending big bux on a blade, find out if it can be sharpened. Especially the carbide tipped variety.

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   Napie | Sep 22, 2003 07:06pm | #8

   I too use the Timberwolf blades, and love them!  I just resawed about 200 feet of cherry yesterday on my Delta 14", not one hitch.  Low tension means just tighten enough to keep the blade on and no more.  These track better, (less drift), than any blade I've ever used and I have tried them all.

2. 
   forestgirl | Sep 22, 2003 07:56pm | #9

   Dennis, Suffolk Machinery specifies a "flutter test" (actually a non-flutter test) to determine when these blades are just right.  They describe it here on their web site.

   PS:  Dennis, I didn't see your whole message before I wrote the above.  As to the tension gauge, the tests I've read about where they checked the stock "scales" against blade-tension gauges seem to indicated that these scales are inaccurate virtually across the board on the smaller saws such as my Grizzly 14".  I've never had any confidence that my gauge was telling me anything useful.  Someday I'll make one of those home-made tester thingies just for fun.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

   Edited 9/22/2003 1:04:41 PM ET by forestgirl

1. 
   ToolDoc | Sep 22, 2003 08:51pm | #10

   Jamie: Gee here I have been tightening my Bs with just enough pressure to keep my blades on the wheels from day one..they always did seem to work better than applying to much tennsion from the get go..Guess thats the problem everyone has been over tighting there blades all these years.. oh well maybe you can teach these old Dawgs new tricks after all..LOL..

      A Non ~ Member of the Bandsaw Guru Club <G>          ToolDoc                    

   Proud Member of the Delta & Klein Tradesman Club & Milwaukee HD Club & Knots Bad Boys & Girls Club..

   Edited 9/22/2003 1:57:32 PM ET by TOOLDOC

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 22, 2003 10:25pm | #11

   Always knew you were way ahead of your time, TD!!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   ToolDoc | Sep 23, 2003 06:47am | #13

   Dear Grand First Lady of the mighty Forest Kingdom..HMMMM Jamie are you trying to Humor me??LOL.. ok guess not.<G>..

                               ToolDocProud Member of the Delta & Klein Tradesman Club & Milwaukee HD Club & Knots Bad Boys & Girls Club..

2. 
   DennisS | Sep 23, 2003 04:41am | #12

   Hi Jamie -

   No, I don't really have any confidence in the gauge on my Delta either. I generally tighten it to somewhere beyond what the gauge setting indicates for the width of blade I have on the saw. With the Lennox blades I've been using, more tension seems to be better than not enough.

   I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and pop for one of those Timberwolf blades. Nobody seems to have anything bad to say about them.

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 23, 2003 08:27am | #14

   Well, I don't think I've heard anything bad about Lennox either, LOL!  You got any reason to change?  Keep in mind, the Timberwolf may be good, but it's still not gonna make coffee for you in the morning, anything like that!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   RANGERP75R | Sep 24, 2003 04:00am | #16

   Dennis

      I have never used the Lennox, but have not heard anything bad about it either. I do use the TW with the exception of re-sawing. I use the Highland Re-Slice.

      My point, if it ain't broke: don't fix it! I'm sure there are other blades out there that are excellent also. If you're getting great results with Lennox, why switch?

      About the only exception I can think of that made a major difference to me is with hand scrapers. I thought for 29 years that the Sandvik was the ultimate. I ended up with a Lie-Neilson and a Veritas recently. Both will run circles around the Sandvik. ha..ha..

   sarge..jt

2. 
   Andrew | Sep 20, 2003 04:52am | #2

   Call Do-All @ 1-800 Do-All. If I were you I would get bi-metal blades. The price on them has dropped significantly. I paid $35 a blade for ones 130" long and 3/8" wide, and they used to cost me $70.

3. 
   10fingers | Sep 20, 2003 06:45am | #3

   I would recommend that you buy a Lenox 1/2" by .025, 3 tooth trimaster carbide tippedBlade.  You would be able to tension it and resist metal fatigue that a thick blade can develop or small (less than 20") wheels.   Then go cut some mesquite or some other hard wood.   If you can't afford a carbide tipped, then go for the bi-metal blade.   I would recommend that you don't go over 1/2" blade.   Check out the Ittura catalog, it has an immense pile of knowledge.

   Chuck

4. 
   CharlieD | Sep 20, 2003 09:42am | #4

   For resawing, I've been very pleased with the WoodSlicer from Highland Hardware, obvious URL. While you're at their website, check out their treatise on resawing--very useful info. Also pleased with Timberwolf for smaller general purpose blades.

   Charlie

5. 
   ToolDoc | Sep 20, 2003 08:11pm | #5

   Check out http://www.olsonsaw.com     I use there All Pro & MVP blades there great..

   You will get more Bang for your Bucks..

                                     ToolDoc

   Proud Member of the Delta & Klein Tradesman Club & Milwaukee HD Club & Knots Bad Boys & Girls Club..
6. 
   RANGERP75R | Sep 21, 2003 04:30pm | #6

   Ron

      Like CharlieD, I use the Timberwolves for all but re-saw. The Wood-Slicer from Highland Hardware was especially designed to get that job done. It comes in 1/2" and thin kerf, 3 tooth and that works especially well on BS's with less than 2 HP.

   Luck...

   sarge..jt

7. 
   b1gcountry | Sep 23, 2003 11:20pm | #15

   BC Saw has some very good and very reasonable blades for sale. They are very reasonable at ~$14 for a 1/2" 3TPI blade. This is what I'd go for with general straight work either rip or resaw. I don't have their #, but you can probably search online. They will also resharpen your blades for about 2.50-$3.00 You also get discounts at 5, and ten blade orders.

   Tom

8. 
   PlaneWood | Sep 24, 2003 07:42am | #17

   Timberwolf!   Buy direct from the factory using their web site.  http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/

   For resawing I get their 1/2" blade with 4 tpi.   Or, just call them and ask!  They will tell you what the best choices are for your brand saw.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

9. 
   MatthewSchenker | Sep 24, 2003 05:16pm | #18

   Ron,

   I have a 14" Jet band saw. When I started out, I used Olsen blades, then I switched to Timberwolf after buying a couple at a woodworking show. They have changed ny whole attitude toward band-sawing. Once I started using the Timberwolf blades, all blade drift was totally eliminated -- I'm serious. The whole issue of blade drift, which is a comon discussion about band saws, was over once I started using Timberwolf.

   Recently, I installed a new tension spring and tension crank. I would strongly suggest getting one of these. You can get it at Highland Hardware for about $30. With this new spring and crank, I tension the spring to just under the marking on the saw's tension meter, and it is great. Here's the direct link to the product on the Highland Hardware Web site:

   http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/product.asp?3=1299

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 24, 2003 08:03pm | #19

   Matthew, it looks like the spring (made by Iturra) is a separate item from the replacement crank and knob, an extra $16.99.  Still a good upgrade though!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   MatthewSchenker | Sep 25, 2003 06:14pm | #20

   Forestgirl,

   Yes, you're right! Sorry, I forgot since I ordered both of them together. But you are also right in saying it's a good upgrade. I am very happy with the easier method for tensioning the blade with the crank.