Replies

1. 
   TomMGTC | Feb 10, 2003 12:28am | #1

   I would use a couple of layers of 1/4 bending ply or 3/8 bending plywood. It comes in 4x8 sheets or 8x4 sheets depending on the way you want it to bend.

   Tom
1. 
   RANGERP75R | Feb 10, 2003 02:12am | #2

   Tom

      Thanks for the speedy reply. Are you reffering to standard yellow pine type ply in 1/4" or 3/8". In other words, the cheap stuff. If so, (an I know it has a pretty rough surface) would I need to additionally rough it with 80 grit or is it sufficient the way it comes off the rack.

      I have never used laminate in a curve this this. With a little help from Richard J I got cutting the top and bottom figured out with a hand formed pattern I can transform to them and get precise with an over-head bearing pattern router bit.

   Thanks for your help...

   sarge..jt

1. 
   TomMGTC | Feb 10, 2003 05:41am | #4

   I only know it as bending ply but it has a surface similiar to luan. Very smooth and doesn't need to be roughed up. I used it for a substrate for a sleigh bed with maple and lace wood veneers and it worked perfectly. I think Atlanta wood products is where I got it.

   Tom

   Edited 2/9/2003 9:42:26 PM ET by Tom

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Feb 10, 2003 06:04am | #6

   Tom

      I am familar with Atlanta Wood Products. I was trying to eliminate down time by staying close, but if I have to go there then I may. They are about 30 miles from me here in Gwinnett. I had actually though of using laun as the substrate. It doesn't have to be particularly thick. The main abuse will come across the top which is 3/4" MDF with an 1/8" rubber covering. The rubber is actually 24" x 24" flooring squares as you will see on the counters of Advanced Auto and the floors of Pep Boys here in our area.

      The MDF is 1/4" an another alternative I suppose. I think I will check all 3 and do a little gentle bending. There are no really sharp bends as it is a flowing arc. Sounds like I have a few alternatives here. Most of these are cheap enough that if one fails, another choice could be made.

      Think I'm good to go. Thanks to you and ricky for the replies and response. If I can re-ciprocate, by all means let me know.

   Have a good evening...

   sarge..jt

2. 
   wrick2003 | Feb 10, 2003 05:09am | #3

   plywood suppliers for the custom cabinet industry sell a prekerfed mdf sheet, with a choice of  veneers.

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Feb 10, 2003 05:48am | #5

   ricky

      Thanks Ricky. My neighbor who is a construction super-visor for a large firm mentioned the same thing today. Normally I don't do projects as this but my company ask. I have learned a whole lot about cabinet construction and lamination in the last several weeks. Kind of interesting really.

   Again thanks for the reply...

   sarge..jt

3. 
   jgaiennie | Feb 10, 2003 06:16am | #7

   What radius are you bending to?  I have a chart here somewhere that may cover that.

   jdg

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Feb 10, 2003 07:44am | #9

   jdg

      Thanks. Been out walking that old dog, or vice-versa. ha.. The radius was originally 54", but I re-designed to stay on one solid sheet of 4 X 8 MDF. Picture the center edge of a 4 x 8 (48" length-wise) sheet as the apex and the two far corners as where the semi-cirlce ends. It will in-corporate a gentle swinging curve on an entire sheet of MDF. The entire 48" width will be used on top along with the 96" lenght. Hope that's not confusing. I am reffering to the top.

      The laminate will be layed to conform to the curved top and base. If I knew how to post a picture of a drawing ( the cavalry has arrived, the First Lady is MIS, thank god.ha..ha..) The laminated piece between the top and base is 44 1/8" tall. This way I can keep the top and base on one sheet when I set up a pattern to cut it a I figure I will have to use two pieces of laminate and substrate seamed at the center where the apex of the curve is.

   Thanks for the assist... don't laugh at my drafting skills. ha.ha..

   sarge..jt

   
4. 
   jako17 | Feb 10, 2003 06:58am | #8

   Hi Sarge

     The best stuff to use  as already mentioned is wiggle board or flexible ply here it is available in two thicknesses 5/32 &5/16 something you should bear in mind when jig sawing the supports with that new Bosch.It is made of lauan and can be obtained to bend across the width or down the length. the 5/16 will do a 5" diameter .However the finish needs either laminate or veneer.

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Feb 10, 2003 08:16am | #10

   jako

      The portion that is bent is where your knees would touch. This is a 8' section on the end tied into 30' of straight parts counter I have already built and installed. Yes, that bent portion will be covered in laminate as the rest of the straight counter it connects to. I will use 3/4" ply for the base and 3/4" MDF for the top. Thats where the Bosch comes in.

      I got an assist from Richard J and I will shape a pattern from 1/2" MDF. After I cut it within 2 to 3mm outside the line, I will hand work it down to perfect on the curved line. The pattern will be clamped on top of the top and cut using the pattern with an over-head bushing flush trim bit in a router. The base gets the same procedure.

      The base and top are tied with 1 1/2" x 2" support rails I will rip. I will place them rather closely around the curved perimeter and tie the top and base together. I plan to recess them back from the edge the exact width of the substrate so the sub, base and top edges are all flush. Then comes the substrate and laminate around the front, as the back is left open at my companies request. (just trim)

      The top is covered with 1/8" rubber flooring that comes in 24" x 24" squares. I use non-solvent glue on the rubber as it reacts chemically to regular contact cement. I tested on a sample piece and got blister city within two days. Laminate goes on with standard solvent based contact cement.

      I have never built anything this big or like this before. So far the first 30' of straight was great. If you fore-see any problem with that curved counter and the laminate, please speak up before I proceed. I know the top and base method will work. I'm pretty sure the sides will to.

      Now, can the squiggly ply be bought at HD or Lowes? I saw 1/4 or 5/32" MDF at Lowes and HD has same in laun. Is this the same as squiggly, or is squiggly something I have to get at a custom cabinet place. Tom, here in Atlanta has bought it at Atlanta Hardwood. I would like to get it closer, but gotta do what I gotta do. I want the correct application. Not that I'm picky or anything. < G >

   Any problems, yell. And thanks mucho for the assist. And my company thinks I'm doing this all by myself. ha..ha..

   sarge..jt 

1. 
   jako17 | Feb 11, 2003 04:59am | #11

   Hi Sarge

          I live in the great frozen north , Canada we don't have Lowes and I called the local H-D and they never keep it .I buy all my sheet goods from a sheet goods specialist outlet ,however several of the smaller lumber yards keep one or other of the two thicknesses in stock.It really is worth locating as it bends far easier than 1/4" material In fact you will find that the thinner one is quite trickey to rip on the table saw as it droops so much. Another observation is if the curves are radii consider using a trammel on the router ,either for the finished product or to make the template .One way of eliminating the hand work! The largest trammel I have  made was 18 feet rad  .Cut 2/3  of the way through then flip it over and use a bearing  under flush trimmer to finish  the cut.One last point you don't mention it but I would rip the ribs out of 3/4 ply as it stays straight and use glue and staples to hold the wiggle board.I find that one can get a spiral happening when wrapping the curve so my method is cut a bit wide and jig saw (another  excuse to use the Bosch), flush trim or belt sand it level with the top.Sorry to go on at such length but I hope it helps.If I can be of any more assistance you know how to find me !

                                              Jako

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Feb 11, 2003 06:47am | #12

   jako

     

      Thanks very much. Very helpful with the droop on the TS on the wiggle board. In this case I will problay lay it on a sacrifical sheet of ply and cut it with my circular saw, edge guide and gauge block I just built. Something I saw in the current issue of WoodWork mag. It works great and eliminates a step in measuring. Very accurate.

      The curve cut was done as I mentioned. I was having a cup of coffee and noticed that my spindle sander is on casters. I took the pattern and mounted it on the assembly table and shimmed under it so the spindle sander drum was the same height as the edge of the pattern. Cranked it up and moved the whole spindle sander cabinet right around the curve on it's caster base. Got within 1 mm. Not to much hand work left at this stage. ha..ha..

      I also like the idea of ply supports. I may even double them to get the 1 1/2" by 1 1/2" or 2". Good structure as I won't have a lot of runners here. I had already thought of the glue on the supports and will problay counter-sink and shoot with 1" #8 sheet metal screws. The staples would be quicker, but keep in mind I'm not in a major hurry at this point and I definitely am into over-kill. With that thin material, the counter-sink may be a bit much. Will experiment to see. If so staples is a go.

   Thanks for all your suggestions. Which province. Have a lot of good customers your way, especially ONT. and B.C.. A few in N.S. and the other provinces. Thanks again...

   sarge..jt