Hi everyone,
As you can see by my login name I’m new to woodworking. I’m currently taking classes from a furniture maker who also teaches basic woodworking classes. Sooner or later I’m going to thing about my first major tool purchase besides my haqnd tools: a table saw. I’ve heard so much about so many brands and have been told numerous times to buy the best I can afford. I’d like to know what you all think. Any feedback will be appreciated.
Mike aka “newwoodworker”
Replies
Hello Mike.
welcome to woodworking. You'll get lots of advice here, most of it colored by the owners decisions and a little by the results. I like you, wanted to get the first biggie, the table saw. After doing a lot with wood the one conclusion I've come to is that as a first a table saw is greatly over rated.
What you can do with a table saw is basically rip wood. Oh yeh, if you have short pieces you can sorta cross cut but unless you get a real accurite sled or miter, the cuts won't be as accurite as a good sliding miter saw. Forget about long pieces say 6 feet or longer, wrestling with those as you slide them across the blade is an exercise in frustration.
I started out with a table top. Cheap table top. within it's limitations I could do OK. not really great like I would have liked but OK. Forget about big stuff, too awkward. but OK on the smaller projects. I then went to a contractors saw with the added table to handle those big sheets of 4x8 plywood. I thought the cats Meow when I got it out of the box. Well, not exactly. still have the problem of holding the sheet against the fence squarely. easy to do on short pieces but pretty difficult on long/big pieces. What I found works well for me on those, is to clamp a straight edge to the sheet and cut it into manageable size with my skill saw. (much easier to guide than guiding a whole sheet of plywood)
You will get those on this board who feel that old machinery is best. that with a little care and rebuilding you can turn an old high school shop table saw into a gem you'll treasure. There may be some trueth to that if......
You have the machinist ability to rebuild acuritely old machinery.
If newer safety devices don't mean anything to you or you can engineer their adaptation
you're willing to forgo starting on your hobby while the rare bracket/part/gizmo is located or fabricated.
Finally some of the old machinery with a great reputation is no longer made. The brand name is made in Tiawian with all the limits that entails. Another words Delta ain't Delta anymore, it's made in Tiawain and not nearly the machine it's reputation was earned on. Same with Jet/General and others.
Paying a high price for equipment doesn't mean that you will become a master overnight, the learning curve is just as steep with expensive as cheap.
Now I've confused you some more. so here's my honest feelings what equipment to buy. Look hard at grizzly.com They have decent equipment that because it's not sold thru a middle man is much cheaper than "name" brands. I've found it to be good decent stuff. Good luck with your purchase....
Welcome Newwoodworker to the world of woodworking!
I just wanted to let you know that Delta still does make a great contractor saw here in the U.S. The Delta Contractor 2000 series is made in Tupelo Mississippi and is a very good saw.
Many of the saws do have similar features but the thing I still like is that w/ Delta is the large network of service centers and Delta's comitment to keeping parts in stock. You can still get parts for the original Unisaws made in the 1940's.
That being said just remember in woodworking there are always many different ways to accomplish the same task so get other ideas from books and woodworkers and choose the one that seems to suit you the best. I've never seen a task or problem that could be taken on only one way.
Thanks,
Dan Baker
Jeez, when I first saw your post I thought I had a serious brain fade; didn't recall writing it. heheheh
Any who, just to expand a a tad; all Delta Uni Saws, two of their top of the line contractor saws (as you mentioned) and their 14" band saw are still manufactured here in the States. The "qualifier" is that all their castings are done in Taiwan, the machining for the previously mentioned products are done here.
That being said, I do agree with Frenchy that many opinions could be forthcoming. Not too long before The Move there was an excellent discussion as a result of this very same question. Normally, I would provide a link to it. However, because the "search" feature is woefully inadaquate, I have neither the time nor the inclination to put myself through the frustration of trying to locate it, much less suggest that someone else conduct a "search".
Essentially, FWIW, I had responded that it is best for one to decide what type of saw would best "fit" their needs first, i.e. a bench, contractor's, or cabinet, then start looking at actual brands. Knowing where ones interests lie, the type of projects they will be attempting to do, space requirements, and how much they intend to spend goes a very long way in receiving more objective recommendations.
In a much more recent discussion started by Steve Schefer on "Why we buy" I mentioned that table saw "technology" has changed very little in the last 50 years or so, what has changed significantly are the quality and types of fences that come standard with these machines not to mention the availability of aftermarket fences. In my view it is the fence that is the single most important component of any type of table saw in terms of repeatable accuracy and precision. Given that the saw is in perfect alignment and the same blade is used, there will be little, if any, difference in "results" from one brand to another within each class of saw. FWIW.
Dano
"Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright
Edited 4/11/2002 11:11:22 AM ET by Danford C. Jennings
I must agree with Dano... Oopps. Danford...O.K. who's on first.... LOL.
First off, I've tried to stop recommending specific brands of anything. I simply do not have the resources to test every piece of equipment out there so it is impossible for me to personally say which one is best.
I think the resultant analysis of this thread says one thing, do the research. Learn the difference between a table, contractor and cabinet saw then decide which one fits your needs and your budget. Once you have that decided do more research on the brands and models that are available.
Don't overlook some of the less expensive brands just because someone here says too. As Dan Jennings says, sometimes the only difference is the quality of the fence.
Research the company's recent reputation and talk to the people that service their products and the saw that you are looking into. Mechanical quality is difficult to determine if you only work on one but if you work on many and see the same problems over and over then recommendations become more valid.
Well that's my .02 cents worth.
Good luck and don't be afraid to validate your research right here on this forum. There's lots of experienced folks here just waiting to help you out.
Steve - in Northern California
Edited 4/11/2002 11:50:15 AM ET by Steve Schefer
I started a similar thread about which tablesaw to purchase recently.
Just wanted to share something here - once you decide on the saw, go to the mfg website and check to see if there is a rebate. Also, check toolcrib/amazon for price comparisons.
I've noticed that the prices for the same saw are about the same no matter where you go (online/offline). But I did find that amazon had some package deals (same price, but with a $150 miter jig included on the saw I'm looking at) and referals to rebates ($50 towards another machine by the same mfg on the saw I'm looking at which expired 3/31 - I called the mfg # on their website and found out the rebate is being extended to 10/31). OK, to avoid confusion - I'm talking about Delta. But Dewalt also had some rebates on their website, although not for tablesaws.
I admit, I only browsed the previous postings. O.K. So shoot me.. One item did catch my eye and that was why would someone choose cast iron wings over steel. IMHO the cast iron wings add weight to the contractors saw that bring it more inline with the cabinet saw. I feel it gives you a sort of balance between budget and quality. The extra weight makes the average contractors saw feel and act close to a full blown cabinet saw.Steve - in Northern California
I would think that Delta or Jet would be a good choice.
All I can say is Look at buying good used equipment and shop around. By getting used equipment you can get a full shop setup reasonably and quickly and endup able to handle a wider variety of projects types. Once you know what you want to make as a woodworker you can upgrade the equipment that will do the most for you.
Oh, by the way, you should talk to the people who are upgrading their cabinet saws they probably have a good used saw you can get for cheap.
Welcome,
I know a lot of people are saying that the tablesaw is overrated, not me. To me it is easily the most important tool in my shop.
It was the first thing I bought and would do again. I started with a homemade saw that my uncle built, spent 10 years with a sears 10", and got a pm66 cabinet saw two years ago that I love.
It's true that large sheets and long cross-cutting can be a chore, but homemade or purchased accessories can help a lot.
A sled can be made with 4/4s and plywood for cross-cutting.
Making a worktable that is the same height as the saw can serve as an outfeed or infeed, or you can make rollers or buy any of the above.
My advice (for what it is worth), is again get the best saw you can get, and then have some fun using it to build the jigs and accessories that will make it easy to use.
The one thing that I would not chintz on is a good splitter and blade guard. Most of the ones coming with a saw are ok, but force you to remove them when doing dadoes.
I sprung for an overhead guard that hangs from the ceiling and a splitter that is easily removed. Being in a hurry last week, I didn't put the splitter in and had a nasty kickback of a 18"x18" piece of plywood leave a nice stripe across my stomach. It could have been worse as I saw what the blade did to the piece and could have dragged my hand into it.
good luck
Howdy and welcome,
I agree with Frenchy--up to a point. (Now you'll hear the voice of a heretic.) One of Frenchy's points, whether he meant to make this point or not, is that a table saw is basically a one-job tool. I would ask myself first what sort of work I planned to do, and then whether I could do without a table saw all together.
Face it: if you use the table saw only to rip, a Skill saw and a good straight-edge will do just about as well, as will a band saw. If you're going to be making furniture or other finish-type work you will have to joint any edge that comes off the table saw anyway. So a table saw, it seems to me, isn't really necessary: they're too expensive and take up way too much space for the limited amount of work they can do well; you can produce the same results with other less expensive tools that are more versatile. I don't own one and I get by just fine using hand tools, or if I have a lot of ripping or crosscuting to do, I will use a band saw.
You said you were going to obtain hand tools. Good. Use them. If you feel compelled to buy a stationary power tool I would tell you to get a band saw. It will rip almost as well as a table saw--limited only by its "reach"--and will do much more besides. After you have ripped the stuff you need you can joint it with your hand planes and wind up with work that is indistinguishable from that produced on a two-thousand dollar table saw and a one-thousand dollar jointer.
I told you I was heretic.
Alan
I'll buy the heretic story.. First you say you can't do as well with a table saw then you say that the alternate method is indistinguishable. Sounds to me like you're saying one is just faster than the other. To that, I will agree. I wish I could show you the quality of the cut I get off my 700.00 table saw with a 112.00 blade. You'd swear that I had a jointer. Then again you probably would think I was fibbing. The reality of it is that if you intend to produce more product, you will likely find yourself buying that table saw. If you're happy with your production rate then stick with the hand tools.
Jeeze, I hate it when I contradict myself, it must be getting near time to hit the local pub and tell really stupid stories to people who havent got a clue what your talking about but will agree with you anyway..... How's that for a run on sentence. Thats nothing wait till I get back from my Thursday night out with the boys at the local pub.....burp...
Steve - in Northern California
Edited 4/11/2002 6:16:20 PM ET by Steve Schefer
Steve,
I don't think I said a table saw wouldn't do as well....If I did, I take it back. What I was trying to say (and, I guess, failed to say clearly) was that other tools can do the same job as a table saw, while costing less, taking up less space, not making as much noise...
As I wrote as I was spreading my heretical view in another thread, I guess it all comes down to why you work with wood. If it's to put meat on the table your decision whether to table saw or not to table saw will be based on other factors than if you work with wood for the sheer pleasure of it; also, do you work in wood just to produce the end product, or also because you enjoy the process in and for itself. An awfully glib response to the pleasure seeker would be, "if you work wood for the pleasure it gives you, why use machines that will shorten the time you spend doing it?"
Alan
Alan,
AHHH a voice of sanity....untill you disagree with me :)
Hey, what am I chopped liver !.... Frenchy, how's the house comming....Warning Warning..Hijacked thread... Ooops O.K. How about starting up a Frenchy's Timberframe House thread so we can keep up on your progress.
Steve - in Northern California
NW
I am only about two years into this hobby, and so my experience is different from the pros and the folks who have years of experience. When I first started, i went tool-crazy and bought a lot of power tools without thinking about what I was going to build. I too assumed that the first power tool to get woudlbe table saw, and I almost bought an $800 DeWalt or a $1200 Delta. I'm glad I didn't because I would not been able to take advantage of their features. Instead I bought a $99 Delta (don't laugh) bench top and a homemade table, that has served remarkably well, and is the most true tool that I have. Yeah, now that I'm more experienced, I can see a better saw in my future, but not unitl I'm making bigger and better projects.
If I ws starting over, I would rather buy a good band saw, because it fits the type of projects I do better. You can rip sheet goods pretty well with a circular saw or jigsaw. I cross-cutting most most things on the miter saw. Heck I'm finding it faster to cut a lot of things by hand with a good hand saw. I would say the table saw is more important if you are making cabinets or other large furniture.
Good luck
I'll join the new guy and state that I, too, am heading in the contractor saw direction after 4 years with a Craftsman benchtop (it was a gift from my loving wife, so stop snickering...). My question is not about which saw, as I have looked and prodded at the Jet, Powermatic, Dewalt and Delta, but about a few features foreign to benchtop users like myself.
1) How important are cast iron extensions (as opposed to steel)?
2) If I am going to eventually upgrade the fence, should I just take the plunge when I buy and pick a saw package with the Bies/Xacta/Accu-fence? Are packages that much cheaper as to not try the cheaper fences first to see if they are good enough for me?
3) Will I regret going with a 30" fence vs the gargantuan ones?
Part of me says buy cheap because any contractor saw will be a Caddy compared to my benchtop Yugo, but I have been frustrated (and endangered) by the flimsy nature of the benchtop and don't want to repeat the process.
Thanks,
Purds
PS: In anticipation of the most like response from you guys, "What do you want to do with this new saw?": Mostly build furniture for my family. I teach at a CT boarding school and have housing there, but we bought a home for ourselves in VT that needs just about everything--trundle bed for the kids, coffee table, end tables, a real dining room table, Morris chair down the road, etc. I also want to build several shop pieces (router table, workbench). So, I will be doing a variety of projects, big and small. My other current tools are 10" compound miter (not sliding), c. 1970's 6" joiner, plunge router.
Purds,
Where in VT are you? I am up in Highgate. I am in a very similar situation. My wife gave me a Craftsman benchtop for Christmas, but I think my next purchase will be a planer. I am keeping my eye open for a Parks 12". I will probably buy one this summer.
We're way down in Brookline, VT, next to Newfane--can't even find our town on the map, and all 462 of us resent the oversight!
Purds
NEWOODWORKER,
I am still a relatively new woodworker, so I have recent memories of the exercise you're going through. I initially bought an inexpensive Sears table top unit that I quickly outgrew (just cut one larger piece of plywood, rip oak/maple, or try to fit a dado on the short arbor!). I then looked at all the brands, the reviews, and everyone's opinion, and then thought seriously about the woodworking I plan to do. I think the last consideration is probably the most important. While I enjoy woodworking immensely, I will not be quitting my day job any time soon. So, I decided I needed a decent contractor's saw. I've made it even more useful by building a folding outfeed table, a dust "blocker" for the back of the saw, etc. I chose the Ridgid because at $600.00 (including the mobile base), it was an excellent value for what I want to do in woodworking. I found it to be approximately $200 - $300 less than other brands. I've had it for over a year and have not been disappointed. I agree with many reviews that the fence leaves something to be desired (must lock at front and back of table), but properly tuned, it is an excellent tablesaw at an excellent price. Think long and hard about what you plan to do, read the available reviews, and I'm sure you'll make the right decision.
Nice looking outfeed table, does the motor hit the table when you tilt the blade to a 45? Mine did and whacked the trunion really bad. I've since made provisions that accomodate the tilt.Steve - in Northern California
TJ:
Sounds like you've suffered my pain of the table top model. I like the setup you created, and it definitely piques my interest. How does it serve you with larger plywood? I also find with my benchtop's front/rear locking fence that I have to measure both front and rear sections of the blade-to-fence distance to obtain both the right spacing and a fence parallel to the blade. Is the Rigid fence (or cheaper fences on the Deltas/Jets) that bad, too, that it requires double measuring? I find that an immense pain.
Scott
Edited 4/13/2002 12:12:53 AM ET by Purds
Scott,
It's funny you asked.... Just this weekend I cut some 8' long plywood. The table was just long enough to support the 8' length. The outfeed table made it much easier and much more accurate. Regarding the fence, no I do not have to measure from the front and back of the fence every time I move the fence. There's no doubt that a positive locking front fence design is better, but for $600.00, I still believe the Ridgid is a great value. I've used it for almost a year and do not regret my purchase (the ultimate test).
Terry
Edited 4/15/2002 8:11:33 AM ET by TJINFL
Terry:
You say "The table was just long enough to support the 8' length." So, just how long is your outfeed table? I am guessing that I'd need about 50 inches behind the saw blade to balance the 8' sheet, so I would take 50 inches minus the length, behind the blade, of the saw's depth.
Just in case I steal your nice design...
Scott
Purds, you are correct. 50" is optimimum. Mine is 48" but thats only because I made the top from a piece of 24 x 96 3/8 A/C/X ply that I had left over from another project. I made mine extremely portable by setting dowels into the end that connects to the saw. These dowels slide into the mounting holes of the back fence rail so setting it up is a breeze. I secure in place with a couple of spring clamps between two table tops. The legs at the back fold so when I want to get it out of the way, I just disconnect it, fold it up and hang it on the wall.
In the picture it will look like its sitting on two saw horses but its not. This is just where I store them when they're not in use.
Steve - in Northern California
Edited 4/15/2002 12:25:10 PM ET by Steve Schefer
Steve:
Ingenious! Great design for portability. I am printing this out and saving it for June (I teach and can't really get into the garage shop until then, especially as the garage is in VT and I teach in CT).
Purds
I have to disagree that a table saw can only rip. Although that may be what it may most used for, I use my saw for many things and is the most used tool in my shop. Beyond ripping, you can crosscut (although I do use my chop saw mostly), bevel, miter, box joints, dados, dovetails, raised panels, rabbets, tenons, bridle joints, etc.
I would recommend a good quality saw. My first table saw was a Shopsmith. The runout on the saw was so great that you see it. That makes it impossible to make accurate cuts. I now use a Delta Contractors saw (mid 80s vintage) that serves me well. I strongly recommend a good splitter and an aftermarket fence. I could never square the "Jet Lock" fence that came with the saw. I bought a Vega fence which considering the price and ease of installation is a very good value. With this fence I can set rip cuts without having to use a ruler. The built in scale in dead-on every time.
Consider looking for a used UniSaw, General or Powermatic. Lots come on the market when schoold districts build a new high school, or when they drop woodworking. Commercial shops are also going out of business all the time. Watch the auction lists. In 94 I bought a 1968 UniSaw with a 52 inch UniFence, 6 blades, tenoning jig and an 8by 4 ft outfeed table, for $900. List price at the time was over 1600. I've seen 3 or 4 recently in the Denver Post ads. Worst thing was I had to ad a bottom sheet, a motor cover and a dust collection port. I was all ready to replace my dad's 1960 Monkey Wards direct drive (boy did that thing scream) with a Delta Contractor's saw, UniFence stand and 1 blade for over $1100 at Schlosser's. You have to check them out but if a UniSaw runs and doesn't vibrate it's probably ok. About the only thing that can go wrong is the motor and the saw arbor. Both will reveal problems by vibration or slow starting. Avoild 3 phase motors although you can replace them for $360 at amazon. Buy the HTC mobile base not the Delta.
Dave,
One small but annoying difference between cast iron and steel wings:
Paint! The blue paint on my Jet contractors saw steel wings has gradually worn off all the high spots, leaving blue marks on my work that must be sanded off. That, and the extra weight/stability would sway me towards cast iron wings if I had the choice.
New woodworker, Welcome to a great hobby! Concerning tablesaws, I would
recommend the Powermatic 66. I started out with a Sears saw, then a Rockwell,
(now Delta), before I bought the Powermatic. I've had it for over 10 years & have
had no trouble with it. I got a HTC front extension table for it & can rip any length
of boards with it by myself. It came standard with a Biesemeyer fence which is
bulletproof - I installed it when I got the saw & haven't had to adjust it since.
Good Luck, Russ
Dear NEW;
After 30+ messages, of which I only read 2, I will throw in my 2 cents. After many many years of buying tools and "stuff" I have reached one conclusion. If you don't mind buying something often or struggling with it, get a "cheapie". If you want to be able to depend on it, only buy it once, and enjoy working with it, get the best and take care of it. New or used. (If you work it right, you can turn a Rolls Royce into junk.) For my money the pre-jet Powermatic 66 is the unit to get. Yes, it's expensive and finding one may be a problem. (I have no experience with the post-jet PM66. They may still be just as good as the origonal. Maybe someone could comment that is not connected to jet. I am old enough to remember what happened to Porter Cable, Harly Davidson and Black and Decker when the bean counting 'promo' boys got ahold of them.) I found my pre-jet 66 as a demo unit. You have to figure that anyone that goes to the trouble to turn their table surface into a mirror has to be doing a few things right. I can adjust my fence .002" and the saw will cut it. No bull. By in large, old stuff is better than new. Just compare drill presses and wood planes. If you but old, you need to know what you are looking at. If you buy new you need to know who REALLY made it. Good luck. In a word PM66 is the one to get for a lot of reasons. otherwise, I would go looking for an old Delta unisaw.
"Old is better than new?" Perhaps in our memory. Certainly not in reality. I have an Old Model A . While it's an old friend and I can figure out where and what to fix and tune. I have no illusion that it's better than a new Ford Taurus.
Price really isn't the indicator of reliability it once was. The marketing boys have figured out that we equate cost with value and price accordingly. I've run close to 12,000 bd. ft. thru my Grizzly 20 inch planer. Not a Hick-up. It's the cheapest one out there by a lot, an awfull lot and it works well.
One thing you'll notice is that whatever somebody owns,,,,, that's the best....
You are right about pricing and the 'Boys'. I used to work for a lawn and garden dealer who's philosophy was that if something didn't sell, raise the price. Old vs new?? It will be interesting to see how many Taurses' will even exist in 70 years let alone be able to run. Don't get me wrong. I'm not an "Oldies" freak. I simply believe that there was a time when someone put their name on what ever they made because it was their honest best effort and not to see how close they can come to planned failure. Few of these people still exist. (My Ryboi spindle sander is a case in point ).
Yeh,
I know my model ####wouldn't be around if a few times in it's life it wasn't "rescued" . In fact it now needs some more "rescue". Which I assume is the case with old wood working machinery. Figure out how many Tauruses will survive? I think some will, grandpa's will sit in the barn with only 23,000 miles on the clock and if he lives his 4 score and 10 it'll be close to 40 years old at that point. Someone will think, gee a neat old car....
I know that some people put their name on things because they were proud of it and did their best work. Some also put out whatever they thought would sell back then and now! Age is no promise of value. I've got things set aside because they are junk, they work but they're junk. They'll still work 25 years from now but they're junk.Oh, I could fix them up to work better but they are still junk.
I absolutly agree. Junk is junk is junk no matter how old or new. Home Owner grade stuff is a case in point. I once talked with an engineer for a very popular tool mfg. that told me that their H.O. grade stuff was designed to last a max. of 40 hours. Bottom line for me is brand/grade and reputation. Old or new. Some are best left in the dump. Others I have picked up and with little expense and effort, have returned to usefull life. One of the best circular saws I've got only cost me $5 for a switch. A $15 bearing from Porter Cable rescued my father-in-law's 1950's router from excessive vibration. On the other hand for a few $ more, I could have had a real spindle sander instead of the Ryboi that I paid $150 for that sounds like your model A on a bad day. (no offence intended.) I'm not an "oldies" freak, I'm a "does it do what it's supposed to without aggravating the (bleep) out of me" freak. I think we are on the same basic path here. We both want preformance. Quality is defined by industry as something made to specs. That way they can produce junk and call it quality with a straight face. Quality to you and me is something that works good and will last.
well yes, We are in total agreement. I used to be terribly loyal to American made products. My logic was that by the time you paid to import something, you had to have costs that would make imports unfair, either to their own workers or our workers (via undervalued currancy) the alternative was that the import had to be vastly inferior. I mean that boat ride and import duty came from someplace.
I was in a airport waiting lounge in Iowa years ago. This was one of those "private" lounges that take care of the occupants of Lears, King air and the like. (I was flying in the company jet to sell a crane to a customer). Sitting in the lounge was someone who "owned" a mfg. plant nearby, he was inconversation with 4 chineese gentleman. I could tell he was fairly well lit by his volume and an occasional slured word. I couldn't hear what the chineese were saying, but I plainly heard The guy say," When my father ran the business he kept the workers happy by coddleing them, well fuc* them, I'm gonna make sh*t where I make the best profit and if you won't give me that Then there are plenty of others who will,...."
I realized at that point there are plenty of people who feel that way. Thus my loyalty became to me. Who makes the best valued item. Evan if I was loyal to a brand when the next generation took over the was no promise that those values would continue.
Yes, I believe I mentioned Black &Decker as a case in point. The're a sneeky lot. They have all kinds of Grade names like "Comercial" "Contracter" "Heavy Duty" etc. to mislead the unwary into thinking they are buying something decient. I used to be in the landscape business and bought an electric hedge clipper with a super long blade on it. It was labled "Commercial Duty". After the aluminum motor windings vibrated apart, I had a "frank" discussion with the service center,and was told that the only difference betwen Com.Duty and the "Harry Homeowner" grade was that Harry's had a 13" cutter and my 'Comercial' had the long 24" blade. The moters were identical. That was when B&D and I parted company for good. I will buy a used B&D Indutsrial grade tool, but no more trying to play their naming game. Bottom line, one does need to pay attention. Have a good day.
One thing to remember is that a contractor saw is not recommended for use of a dado or moulding head. The bearings can't handle it.
In cabinet saws the Unisaw would be more seriously challenged by the General out of Canada if they were more aggressive in marketing it here.
RJT, I think that all depends on the quality of the contractors saw and that of the dado set or moulding head. Personnally, moulding heads scare the heck out of me and I don't use them. However, I have a set of Delta 8" dado blades that run quite smoothly if you set them up correctly. I have a Jet Contractor Saw with cast iron wings and have not had any problems with arbor bearings yet. I use the dado set quite frequently. There is another type of dado blade that is known as a wobble blade. That type would probably ruin any saws bearings. I also run the dado set on my RAS and don't have any bearing problems there either.
I can't remember which saw I was looking at but I do seem to remember at least one that was not rated for dado blades. Mine is rated for a maximum of an 8" dado at 13/16 width.Steve - in Northern California
Steve: it is a good idea like you've done to check with the mfg. Whereabouts in N. Cal? I was there only once by Eureka, camped in the Redwoods. Very majestic.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled