I have never used shellac before, I generally use wipe on poly and sometimes a sanding sealer before the poly. I have always been happy with the results. If I want a satin finish I just rub it out with 0000 steel wool and wax works fine. However I’m always looking for a better way and have read about shellac as a sealcoat followed by poly. This method is suppose to give a deeper finish and pops the grain better to give it more radiance. I’m in the process of building a coffee table out of some QS oak which has a very nice grain figure and was hoping to make the best finish I could. Sooo I bought some bullseye sealcoat and proceeded to apply it as directed. The directions said it was not necessary to thin, that it is ready to use. I wiped on the first coat and before I could finish the top (24X40) it started drying and I was working pretty fast because I knew it didn’t take long to dry. Well it came out with streaks and puddles in it so I let it cure and scraped most of it off. Next coat I brushed on and the same thing happened only worse. So I guess I’ll scrape this coat off also. What the shellac happened? Should I have thinned it or what? Or is it a case of simply shellac happening?
ZABO
Replies
You did use SealCoat, and not the regular Zinsser shellac, right? (The regular shellac is a heavier cut, and is also unsuitable for use under poly, as it is not dewaxed.)
You said you "wiped on" the first coat. How did you do that? Did you use a pad already moistened with alcohol? One of the things that people try to do, that you absolutely cannot do with shellac, is go over an area multiple times to "smooth it out." Once you've brushed or padded shellac over an area, move on to the next area. Keep your brush or pad wet.
My technique is to use a pad, and I figure that one "pad load" of shellac covers maybe half a square foot or so. So I squirt a little shellac on the pad, take two or three strokes to cover that area (say, 6" wide by 12" tall), squirt some more, take two or three strokes over the adjacent area, and so on, quickly covering the entire surface. I apply a minimum of three coats, sanding lightly after the first coat to remove any raised grain. Certainly the first coat and usually the second coat aren't very uniform, but by the third coat you'll have good overall coverage. If I'm going to be topcoating with something else, I'll let the shellac harden overnight, then sand lightly with P320 to smooth out any dust nibs, etc.
-Steve
Yes I am using SealCoat but I didn't charge my pad with alcohol. I also think I tried to do too much at one time. I did charge my brush but again I think I tried to put too much on at one time. I have corrected the problem by very carefully scraping off a little at a time and a very light sanding. I didn't want to get too aggressive because I had already applied a stain. However by closely inspecting with a powerful handheld light I don't see anymore streaks or puddles and the top feels silky smooth which I strive to accomplish. So I think that after wiping on poly everything will be just fine. I think that I'm so use to the selfleveling ability of the poly that I got shook up. Do you think that thinning the shellac a little would make it easier to apply.
Thanks, ZABO
Thinning the shellac would make it less likely that you would get uneven coverage, but you'd also get less build with each coat.
Frankly, padding 2-lb shellac is a skill that can be learned in a day, with a couple of square feet of panel to work on, so I don't think you'd be gaining very much by thinning.
-Steve
Thanks Steve. I guess I'l keep trying, Practice, Practice,Practice.
Zabo
That's the spirit. Before you know it, you'll be playing Carnegie Hall.
-Steve
Performing the Concerto for Shellac and Unfinished Piano
Edited 4/19/2008 4:15 am ET by MaxYak
Zabo,
I had a similar problem when I first tried shellac..
What solved it for me was to overthin the shellac.. If you are using Bullseye that's 3 pound cut if you are using seal coat that's a one pound cut..
Seal coat you simply need to wipe it on faster.. I mean the Indy 500 of finishing. Flood it on! It will run but if you're fast enough you can wipe faster! Don't sweat the small stuff! Flood it on and get out of shellacs way! it dries that fast!
If you are using bullseye add twice as much denatured alcohol. Don't use thinner or anything else. Denatured alcohol..
Then flood it on as described above.. flood, fast!
If you miss a spot don't go back over it! let 'er dry. It will dry in about 15 minutes! Then you'll want to sand it with 220 sanding sponge.. You know those 3M ones? Don't use sandpaper and your fingers.. If you must use sandpaper use a sanding block! This is real light sanding. It takes roughly one to 1 1/2 seconds per square foot! all you are doing is sanding off the little nubs that get raised with the shellac.. don't try to "fix" anything. The next coat will melt into the first coat and you'll find you've wasted your time!
The next coat should take about 30 minutes to dry, the final coat I apply takes an hour to dry. You may like more or you may want to color sand.
Frankly unless it's going outdoors I wouldn't apply a polyurethane.. Makes things look too plasticy to my taste. Fine antiques don't use polyurethanes. and they know how to bring the beauty out. If you really like that deep shine you can either french polish or color sand.. French polish is better, but massive amounts of time and energy are required..
Zabo,PLEASE don't follow that advice.There are endless threads here (do a search) describing shellac application (it is NOT difficult) and endless threads taking Frenchy to task for his advocacy of shoddy practices.His advice will NOT lead you to satisfactory results."Over" thinning is not necessary or desirable and simply prevents an adequate film build of the shellac.Rich
rich
now admit it! Several have also said that my technique worked for them as well. It's just the same old die hard Shellac police who insist on doing it their way.. they don't understand that three coats of thin shellac equals one coat of thick shellac.
Gees,Here we go again!"three coats of thin shellac equals one coat of thick shellac"NO! It does not. With your "method," three coats of "under 1# cut" doesn't lay down 1/2 the shellac that a single application of a 2# cut does.You have a right to your opinion. But you don't have a right to give false, misleading information.
Edited 4/19/2008 12:31 pm ET by Rich14
Rich
There are several pictures of my home with various parts shellaced already on the internet. You're free to check them out..
Frenchy,I've enjoyed the pictures of your home and other projects. If your methods work for you, I'm willing to believe they would work for me and others. I can't imagine completing a project and immediately applying a new finish without testing it on a piece of scrap and letting the results determine whether I want to use that particular method. I'm a believer in empirical evidence, trial and error, and (occasionally) karma. The only thing I'm dogmatic about is safety. Never about finishing, best tools, best woods or best methods. Telling someone they're wrong doesn't automatically make me right, no matter how loudly I say it so I usually refrain from offering anything other than my humble opinion. Others often take a different approach which (on this forum at least) usually results in a "pee for distance" contest.Regards,Ron
Thank You Roninottawa,
It's nice to hear some support among all those who insist on there being only one way..
Rich 14
Why are you so intolerant of something differnt? If it works for some why not accept it?
I've posted enough pictures that you've all had a chance to see it.
I've explained why and you're free to grab a piece of scrap and try it or simply move on..
Don't be afraid.. I won't insist that you do it my way.I'm not the intolerant shellac police..
I've tried it your way. It doesn't work. How many thousand times does such information need to get repeated by all the many people who have said the same to you in these forums?You just come back when anyone new asks a shellac question and repeat your nonsense. Sorry, but a little craftsmanship and attention to technique actually IS needed in this craft. Dilute it 'till it's useless and flood it on just doesn't do the job, my friend.This has gone on and on and on here. You insist that everyone else who has had a common experience with shellac over hundreds of years is wrong and that you are right.Bad advice, frenchy. And it looks like every time you give it, someone is going to call you on it.Shellac police? Please!
Rich
Look at the photo's I've posted and tell me it doesn't work! It's the only method I've used and it provides a deep glossy finish on par with My Stickley furniture.. Now some of those walnut beams have had a finish on them for less than 3 years and the Stickley furniture is about 9 years old.
However the additional night stand is only a year old and that matches the finish on the rest of the bedroom furniture so there isn't a whole lot of deterioration.
Here's something.. There are a lot of posters in the twin cities area. Have someone stop over and examine the finish for themselves.. They can watch my technique and decide for themselves.
Fair enough?
frenchy,You are free to apply shellac any way you want. Knock yourself out.I have applied just about any finish there is to wood over a very long time. I know how to apply shellac. I am capable of following your method. I've done that, (several times, actually) and I don't need to go through your proposal of getting testimonials about your woodwork.I am perfectly capable of evaluating the goodness of a film finish on wood. Your method does not allow shellac to perform the way I know it should. Your standards must be very low.You are free to express your opinion. But not to give out false information.And I and everyone else is also free to give our opinion and to correct mis-information when we see it here.Keep on describing shoddy techniques and you'll continue to get reactions from people who think the job can be done better.Enough. Go flood some wood with denatured alcohol.
Rich
So bottom line you, don't know and you're not willing to find out huh?
Does the word chicken come to mind?
frenchy,
Since all the dogs are barking I'll toss in my 2 woofs. I have used shellac for over 40 years. I've brushed, sprayed, padded, french polished, dipped, you name it. In most cases, I have been happy with the results. In several situations, I have needed to get a finish INTO the wood quickly. No time for oil or an oil varnish mix. I have used your technique with great results and it would be my first choice again, under the same set of circumstances. But not every time, for every project.
IMHO, ALL of you, to a point, are correct. Properly working with shellac presents choices in both methods of application and ratio of shellac to alcohol.
I think it might behoove the Shellac Police to remind us that when we post suggestions here we are posting about OUR OWN experiances and what works for US. We should just try to share.
Best as always!
-Jerry
It's pretty interesting when the result of a number of contributors, who have advocated heeding hundreds of years of experience (including a lot of our own) in applying shellac is labeled "shellac police" in a forum called "Fine Woodworking."It's pretty interesting that the guy who has advocated a shoddy and second-rate method gets support for his ad hominem ("shellac police") attack.Yes, that's how to win a point. Distract the attention from the actual facts and situation and accuse your adversary of something bad (unjustifiably).We're not discussing getting shellac "into" the wood (which it doesn't do, by the way), frenchy is advocating covering large expanse of wood, as in finishing floors and large panel projects.Well, common sense is hard, after all.Rich
nazard.
Thank you and well said..
I offer my appraoch (and I need to be extremely careful with the my approach since I'm sure I didn't create it,.. simply am an advocate). Only as an alternative.. I've repeatedly said those with flawless ability to apply shellac don't need my approach. For those who are frustrated my approach might work..
The problem is that Rich14 knows, I'm pretty sure I know, Steve Shafer knows, Peter28 knows, Rob A. knows. It's not a question of not being willing to find out, a phrase you bandy about as if it applied to anything here. Your "method" is obvious, it's results are obvious, and it is this knowledge that prompts people like me to make sure that people with less experience are not fooled into thinking that the method you promote is desirable. You can use what ever you want, of course, but to advocate it on every occasion, to people without as much experience as some of us have, is just being bullheaded. Methods that give much better finishes are just a tiny bit more challenging, it's a shame you apparently haven't made that minimum effort.
I've looked again at your floor pictures on 34855.7 and 34866.1. They show a very substandard finish, with several apparent scratches, and uneven sheen. All that appears to have happened is that the walnut color has been darkened, in the same way that any oil or any finish that "wets" the surface would do. As a minimalist floor, in a totally casual setting, you might like it, but there is absolutely nothing of any quality to recommend it for further applications. As a makeshift quick and dirty way to keep the dust down on your floor it's fine, but otherwise it just doesn't add anything. So for a certain application a not quite nil amount of shellac may fill the bill. BUT, for furniture or cabinetry applications that most people ask about it would be just sad to have such a weak finish when better is so easily available.
Frenchy:It's on occasions like this that I wish Knots had a "wiki" that would allow users to post to a searchable knowledge base. Like Wikipedia, it would allow for differing points of view so that the user could determine what is right for them. So the Rich14 and frenchy views could be stated once and not rehashed every time the word 'shellac", appears in the title of a post.Hastings
Hastings,
I agree, I wish that I could figure out how to cut and paste stuff so I wouldn't have to keep typing stuff in.. Futher I wish people weren't so threatened by something differant that they'd keep harranging a person with a differant approach, technique, or point of view..
The last part is what I can't understand. What is it about woodworking that makes people so intolerant? Instead of simply posting their techique or method they have to attack someone who does things differantly. Actually attack is too soft a word to describe the positions some take..
Vive La Differa'nce
I seem to recall someone who polished something using I think it was toothpaste or something and the storm raised by that was one of the most intense on this forum untill a differant way of applying shellac came along..
PS This is a subject some really are threatened by, a whole other post was started last week simply trolling for an argeument by those with differing opinions.
Edited 4/20/2008 10:31 am ET by frenchy
Type them in MS Word, the copy and paste into the boxes. Save the Word file for the next time.
Frenchy.. Dang!
they'd keep harranging a person with a differant approach, technique, or point of view.. You do it on purpose! I love you posts!
EDIT: By the way, I slop on the Shellac and if I have a problem I level it off with a gray/grey? 3M pad soaked with rum! Or is it Alcohol?
Edited 4/21/2008 8:41 am by WillGeorge
WillGeorge.
Depends on what you are going for. If you want high gloss, deep shine, block sand it using finer and finer grit sandpaper.
Scuff pads don't do a good job of leveling any finish and a level surface is what's required to get a deep shine.
Think of a lake, if the surface is glass smooth you can see much deeper than if the wind causes the suface to be all chopped up with waves.
Scuff pads conform to the surface, they don't take off the tops of the "waves" that's why you need to use a block sanding approach.
Scuff pads don't do a good job of leveling any finish and a level surface is what's required to get a deep shine. YEP! I like matte finish.. Just me!
EDIT: I forgot! Scuff pads don't do a good job of leveling ?? I find it will 'refresh' small areas. I have even been known (for flat surface) to use one of those steel thin blade things used for cutting wallpaper (a straight edge). Liberal alcohol applied and run that sucker across the surface. OK, so I keep that tools edge honed so no streaks from defects in the blade... Yes, I have been known to do strange things! Now if it is not a flat surface,, Different story!
Edited 4/21/2008 9:26 am by WillGeorge
WillGeorge,
Thanks for the tip. I hadn't considered doing that but it sounds like it might work under certain circumstances like you mentioned..
Just as a personal question, why don't you like high gloss? You see I like high gloss because I don't get to dust very often. When I do,, it's really nice to be rewarded for my efforts by that shine.. Plus stuff I put a deep shine on a decade ago is now gotten enough tiny little scratches etc.. that it's starting to have a sorta satin finish to it.
Antique dealers call that a patina . Wow! do I love that word! It doesn't say lazy housekeeper at all. It implies aged with loving care. <Really Big Grin>
Just as a personal question, why don't you like high gloss?
I'd answer.. All women are beautiful to me.. I for some reason LOVES Brunettes!
Blonds and other just OK but NOT far behind!
I guess that makes sense? We all like what we like! Hell, I love DALLI pantings and I also love Operas and ZZ tops!EDIT! Dand it is Dali with a funny 'thingi' on top of the I.
Edited 4/21/2008 10:22 am by WillGeorge
Edited 4/21/2008 10:26 am by WillGeorge
WillGeorge,
I sure understand that, While I may notice a blond I married a redhead!
As for gloss verses satin I grew up around boats. brite work and brass made a major impression on my life. I still get an impression of wealth and propriety whenever I see shiney Mahogany and polished brass..
I know styles move on but we always crave the things of our youth don't we?
LOL LOL.. Only Red Heads I knew were somthing 'I' could not handle!
BRUNETTES LIKE YOU TO THINK YOU CAN!
I know styles move on but we always crave the things of our youth don't we?
OH YES! Sure wish I had my old 1964 Vett and my Wife! Not in any particulare order. I think the wife is first! I can say that because she understood me.. I guess why we got along!
EDIT.. She KNEW she was first and then my foolishness!
Edited 4/21/2008 1:34 pm by WillGeorge
frenchy,
Cut/Copy and Paste: Take your mouse and start at the beginning of the text that you want to Cut/Copy (The cursor will change to an I) then left click and hold the left mouse button while dragging the mouse over the text (the screen on the text will change color) untill all the text you want is highlighted and then release the left mouse button.
Now, this is a 2 step process: With your left thumb press and hold the Ctrl button (lower left on keyboard) and simultaneously press the C (Copy) or the X (Cut) and this will put the highlighted text in the keyboard buffer (kinda like hold it in mid-air for ya :>).
Then go to the place you want the text to be pasted into and again, with your left thumb press and hold the Ctrl key and press the V letter/key and VOILA the Copied/Cut text will appear for ya!
Sounds really complicated but it rreally isn't once ya get the hang of it.
Practical use of the Above: Open Wordpad and type in text that you often use. When you're done save the file to your desktop. Now whenever you need to Cut/Copy and Paste this text just open the file off your Desktop and use the above procedure.
Also, this procedure works anywhere in Windows for anything< except of course shellac and cheap wood!
Now, for the above consultation (@ $50/hr. I figure you owe me $15) so I'll take 100 bf of that fiddleback maple and I'll pay for the shipping!
:>)
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob
Just as soon as you see me effectively doing it the check will be in the mail..
<grin>
Have you read Jeff Jewitt's online article about padding shellac, complete with pics?
Zabo,
Or you can try my approach on a piece of scrap and see if you like it.. Might save you some frustration..
While you're at it, you should send him some fiddleback maple for 20 cents a board foot so he can practice popping the grain.
Your advice on finishing with shellac should come with a disclaimer, but what the heck, this is the internet. Reader beware.
Jeff
jeff Heath
There are pictures of some of that fiddleback maple at 85891.1 and it was ten cents a bd.ft. not 20. I have a home for all of it. Easy to check on too, just call Johnson sawmill in Cannon falls.. Ask for Danny..
FYI..............wake up, frenchy.
I did call Johnson Logging. I offered to buy an entire truckload, 10,000 bf. They want over $2.00 per bf for mill run, green stock. Keep it up with your little fantasy. The only one you're fooling is yourself.
Jeffheath
Your reading comprehension isn't very good jeff.
I didn't say that they would sell you fiddleback maple for 10 cents a bd.ft. did I? Go back and read it.. I said they sold ME the wood for that price..
They don't know you from Adam do they? Why should they give you a deal? Anybody in the twin cites can come buy and check my recepts.. You won't find I paid $2.00 for any hard maple..
You will find I paid 17 cents for my black walnut,, I also paid 15 cents for some 5/4 ash.. A truckload of thins of any sort was $20.00. etc..
Changing your story again..... I would not believe you if you swore the sun was going to come up in the morning."There are men in all ages who mean to govern well, but they mean to govern. They promise to be good masters, but they mean to be masters."
-- Daniel Webster
rsaunders,
What is it about the shellac police? Do you all have to attack simply to enjoy woodworking?
I offered a differant approach other than telling the OP he screwed up and did it wrong.. He's free to grab a scrap and try it as are you..
Instead you shellac police go on the attack.
Not very polite. Not exactly the way to attract a lot of wood workers to try our hobby.. Please grow up kid.
What does you lying about lumber have to do with shellac?"There are men in all ages who mean to govern well, but they mean to govern. They promise to be good masters, but they mean to be masters."
-- Daniel Webster
rsaunders..
There is no room on this forum for attacks. While there is plenty of tolerance for disagreement, personal attacks such as you just did are totally without justification or merit..
Please either grow up or leave this forum..
You have repeatedly claimed that anyone could go to your supplier and buy wood at the prices you claim to pay. Now when someone tries it you are saying they will only sell you lumber at that price. Sounds like a liar covering his tracks to me."There are men in all ages who mean to govern well, but they mean to govern. They promise to be good masters, but they mean to be masters."
-- Daniel Webster
rsaunders,
I first started posting about the prices I paid back in 1999, Some of the wood I bought at the start is no longer available and I've spoken about that The black walnut I bought in 1999 was at a time white wood such as maple and birch were in demand and dark woods like Black Walnut and Cherry languished looking for buyers..
The sawmill had stacks and stack of black walnut timbers plus piles and piles of boards and beams they were disposing of by selling them to pallet mills.. Pallet mills pay extremely modest prices.. It was 17 cents back in 1999
However as recently as three years ago I only paid $1.00 a bd. ft. shortly after my last black walnut purchase a Chineese buyer came in and offered them 2.65 a bd.ft. for any and all black walnut timbers..
When I attempted to buy the last few timbers I needed for my north side I couldn't find any. If you go back and read all my posts you will find me stating that fact and bemoaning the fact that I would need to take my long boards I'd intended to use as flooring and use them on the north side. (I'll post pictures when they are done)
Going back to 1999 I was buying white oak for 40 cents a bd.ft. sometime around 2003 they raised their prices to 60 cents and then to 80 cents. You can read all those posts if you choose..
In addition through that period I was given oppertunities to buy some wood at deeply discounted prices..
For example the fiddleback maple.. They sorted out 1200 bd.ft. of fiddleback from one cut. They stickered it up and air dried it looking for a buyer..
They started out asking 4.00 bd.ft. and when they found no buyers at those prices dropped prices. When they first offered it to me I was full up with wood and had no more space.. (don't forget I'm building a house on a tight lot)...
So it sat there for well over a year.. It all turned black and even some of it developed mushrooms..
Just before they were going to shred it they offered it to me for 10 cents..
I took my little pen knife and made a couple of cuts and saw solid white wpood with no sign of spalting..
The first pass thru my planer confirmed that it was indeed fiddleback.
Would you sell that for 20 cents?
As for Jeff heath, based on the insulting way he write to me I suspect that they didn't want to have anything to do with him. Do you blame them?
If you subscribe to or get copies of Hardwood market report out of Memphis Tenn. You can confirm the prices I've been talking about..
Mill Run Hard maple unselected was 61.5 cents per bd.ft. in the copy I have. If you want #1&2 white it's 1.32 bd.ft.
To pay more than $2.00 a bd.ft. you would need to order 5/4 FAS #1&2 All white.(then it's 2.05 cents.bd.ft.
Check up on what I state before you make statements as you did.. Don't listen to Jeff Heath who has an investment trying to maximise the wood he sells and doesn't want others to know that wood can be modestly purchased..
http://www.hmr.com
call them at 901-767-9126 or write them at
Hardwood Market report
PO box 2633
Memphis TN 38088-2633
1/27/07 Johnson logging in Cannon falls Minnesota sells FAS Cherry rough and green at the mill for $1.85 a bd.ft. Give Dan a call and have some sent to you.. White oak is $ .80, black walnut is $1.50. etc. 1/21/2007I buy my black walnut at a sawmill and pay about a $1.00 a bd.ft. 1/16/2007I mean I can go to my sawmill and buy all the black walnut I want for less than $1.50 a bd.ft. White oak is $.80 a bd.ft. At that price I can stand at the tail of the rollers and select which boards I want.. If I want only flawless 22 inch wide ones that's what I'll have at the end of the day..1/10/2007The differance is Major ..FAS Black walnut costs me $1.65 bd.ft.1/5/2007I use Johnson Logging here In Minnesota and so far Nobody even comes close to the prices I buy wood for.. or the fabulous wood I get! Good deals like Fiddleback maple for 10cents a bd.ft. or black walnut for 17 cents..This was just a quick search, so was it 10 cents or 20 cents or are you just full of it? Do you really think Jeff was so rude that they jacked up the price just for him?"There are men in all ages who mean to govern well, but they mean to govern. They promise to be good masters, but they mean to be masters."
-- Daniel Webster
rsaunders.
Have you bothered to check the national authority I gave you?
You did read the progression of prices as they occured, Further why they occured..
And yes The prices I gave are what I paid for them..
I have recepts if you wish, as I've offered anyone can stop by and verify either the prices I've paid or examine the finish on my wood. There are enough mpls. and st.paul residents to send someone over.
Yes I can well imagine Seth or Danny being curt to Jeff if he is as abusive as he is in his posts..
As usual you can't see your own B.S. even when your nose is rubbed in it.
I don't need to consult a "national authority" to know you are full of it."There are men in all ages who mean to govern well, but they mean to govern. They promise to be good masters, but they mean to be masters."
-- Daniel Webster
rsaunders,
No I actual went back and read my postings I didn't rewrite them to take them out of context!
You refuse to check with a national authority because you'd have to admit I'm right.. Since they issue the report once a week and have since 1922 I think they are fairly unbiased you on the other hand have been personal and wrong!
Time and time again!
I copied and pasted your quotes directly from your past posts. I did not "rewrite" them. Yet more of your dishonesty."There are men in all ages who mean to govern well, but they mean to govern. They promise to be good masters, but they mean to be masters."
-- Daniel Webster
Good Luck
frenchy
I've wanted to say this to you for a very, very long time. Everyone who has been a forum member here for some time knows that you're completely full of $hit with your bs stories of hardwood bonanza's from your source. Why a logging company would want to sell you a truckload of one of the most sought after hardwoods on the planet right now, otherwise known as black walnut, for 17 cents a foot when China is buying entire forests full of the stuff for over $3.00 per bf, without even having to mill it, has got to be one of the better fish stories available for all to here.
You discredit this entire forum with your free flowing bs, and many of us wish you'd just hide yourself behind a pile of it, and quit spewing it out on the internet for all to read. Only the new people who read this crap don't know how ludicrous it is, and how bad your advice on shellac is, as well.
I can think of a $10,000 reasons why Johnson logging would want to sell me lumber for the same price as you, or even triple, except that your hallucinations are only real in your mind. So, go ahead and keep thinking that way, but spare us the huge pile of bs here, will you please.
I've spent the last 2 years thoroughly investigating the protection of a rather large investment into the hardwood and sawmilling business, and have learned who the players are, and what certain species are fetching on the market. I've yet to stumble onto the location of "Frenchy's Below Cost Hardwoods", or the mill, any mill, in Minnesota, or anywhere else on the planet, that wants to lose money to you.
Now that you've shellac-ed yourself into a corner with all your bs, spare me, and just stop responding.
OOOOOPS, I forgot......you've always got to get the last word in, so go ahead and respond with some more of your crap. I promise I won't respond, and you can feel comfortably numb from the feeling of being right again, if only in your mind.
Jeff adding yet another to the very short IGNORE list
PS Normally, I would never say anything negative about someone elses work, but since you brought it up, and used it as a referral, I shall, this one and only time. If any of the furniture I built had a finish on it as subpar as your floors look in those pictures, I wouldn't be able to sell it. It's quite possible that your shellacing process works great for you because your standards of a proper finish on anything wood are so very, very low. But hey, if it keeps the bs that you seem to roll in from soaking into the floor boards, then it probably works just find.
Edited 4/20/2008 10:33 pm ET by JeffHeath
Well this shellac stuff is just a wee bit over the top. Now this is what happens when you accidentally apply shellac to surfaces not ment to be $hellaced.
My advice is to secure the load......
Here in AZ it drys before you get home.
-----------_o
---------_'-,>
-------(*)/ (*) http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com
Edited 4/21/2008 12:26 am by AZMO
Edited 4/21/2008 12:27 am by AZMO
AZMO,
Please tell us that you were not in violation of Arizona's open container law....< G >
-nazard
64 oz of open violation, no littering involved, I didn't huck the empty on the road. <!----><!----><!---->
-----------_o
---------_'-,>
-------(*)/ (*) http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com
"...I didn't huck the empty on the road."
But I'll bet you gave the road a good shellacking.
-Steve
ON the serious side, no that is just not possible, but the layer of shellac on the rubber part is at least an 1/8" thick. One appliction, very even coverage over the area, no bubbles and appears to be very durable. A nice 3x buff out and she is ready for showtime. <!----><!----><!---->
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Hey man, you just might have given frenchy a new way of shellacing! Just fill up a pickup and drive it all around the floor!
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
WELL it looks like the SHELLAC hit the fan!!!!!
ZABO
64 oz of open violation Wow, in some states you would need a lacquer license.... <g>
I'll stop now.
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