Replies

1. 
   JimGG_ | May 03, 2001 01:30pm | #1

   *
   Yes, I've used it with good results. Varnish, Watco, and similar stuff would work too. I think you mean boiled linseed oil. Raw linseed oil does not dry quickly, and the seat would be sticky for a long time. Milk paint is flat and chalky when dry. The tung oil gives it depth. I put on a very thin coat with a rag. I did not want any build-up. Experiment on scrap.

1. 
   Howard_Hill | May 03, 2001 09:11pm | #2

   *Yep, my bad! - I should have said boiled linseed oil. Thanks for your feedback. So what were you using the milk paint finish on and were you/are you happy with the results? Has the finish held up well and is it aging nicely?Thanks again,Howard H. Hill

1. 
   JimGG_ | May 03, 2001 09:48pm | #3

   *Howard (or is that Professor Howard Hill?) Just kidding. Windsor chairs. Bought the milk paint by mail order from a company called (digging deap into fuzzy memory here) The Milk Paint Company. If you need the exact name and address, I probably can find it. It was about 10 years ago. The paint has worn off where your hands usually rub, like the top of the hoop back, exposing the bare wood. If you do not want bare wood to show after many years, stain the wood first, like, brown or black. I used the dull red color. Looks nice. You could make your first coat another color, like green, then coat with red (or what you want). When the red wears through, the green peeks out. Like Chinese lacquer ware.