Hey All,
I wanted to start a new thread, to separate this topic from the discussion of the incident with the Rockler aluminum push stick.
My question is: What type of push stick do you use, if any? Do you make your own, buy them, or just use whatever scrap is available?
Myself, I use to do all of the above, but now I no longer use push sticks. When I bought my MiniMax combination machine, I went through a major transformation in the way I work at the table saw. The European slider system is configured to encourage the operator to work from the side of the machine, instead of in front, or in line with the blade.
As such, a conventional push stick became awkward, and possibly even unsafe to use, so I switched to using “The Gripperâ„¢”, and have been very satisfied and confident that I’m doing things in a inherently safer way.
Tom
Replies
Tom,
I've been using the Gripper also for the last few months.Amazing little tool isn't it?
When I do use a conventional push stick,it's made of wood.
Brent
In my shop we have a number of home built push sticks out of 3/4 ply. Most are shaped like a handsaw handle and angled with a notch to catch the edge of the board. I like them since the protect my knuckles and help with down force as well as pushing. We also have one shaped like a shark, and a tar heel (go UNC).
Datachanel
Doing things the hard way
I have to add here that someone in the other post was absoultely correct. You read FWW..aspire to high ideals of fine cractsmanship..and you "buy" a push stick?? now come on..........................
Wicked Decent Woodworks
(oldest woodworking shop in NH)
Rochester NH
" If the women dont find you handsome, they should at least find you handy........yessa!"
Cherry,
The Gripper is more than a push stick.Until I tried one I agreed with you 100%.No way would I spend money on something I could easily make from scraps in the shop.
This thing is fantastic at dealing with thin ripping,small pieces,cross cutting short pieces and a variety of other things.But where I use it the most is with veneer.If you get the chance,check out the instructional DVD that comes with it.It might change your mind about putting out hard earned cash for it.
In theory,and usually in practise,I agree with your point,but you should try this thing out before dismissing it ,you might be surprised.I was!
Brent
Brent,
do you know if the Gripper DVD is online somewhere?Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Never mind, I found the site:http://www.microjig.com/Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Mark,
The video on the site is just a marketing video.Lee Valley sells the instructional video.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=49712&cat=1,41080,51225&ap=1
Check it out.
Brent
Thanks,
Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
I use a yellow plastic Big Horn brand push stick. I think it cost less than $5. I like it better than using a wood scrap for several reasons. the handle is comfortable and gives good feeling of control. The lipped point design is good. The bright yellow makes it easy to find no matter where I might put it down in my shop. And the plastic, the time or two it has contacted the plade reacts well - it doesn't move or jolt or anything like a piece of wood might. Could I make one out of wood? Sure. But for $5, my shop time is more valuable. In short, soft (i.e., not brittle) plastic push sticks are nice to have in my experience. Others ways work fine, but there's nothing wrong with the plastic and a lot to commend it.
Hey John,Yes, I have used "store bought" push sticks. I think that the last time was about 15 years ago, and I picked up two to make up the full value of a gift certificate.Still to the point though, is what do you use, and why?Tom
Edited 5/5/2005 1:24 am ET by tms
I cut them out of scrap/offcuts.
TMS,
I only use a puch stick to insure stock stays up against fense. I use a shoe type design for thin pieces and, for wider, a pad with a high handle and a cut up mouse pad on the bottom...I also use the pad for resawing...
When I bought my MiniMax combination machine..
Damn that hurt! Geee and me with my Ridigid.. OK but not a MiniMax combination machine.. You folks are hard on us common folks in here!
Hey Will,Sorry, that wasn't meant as a dig. I mentioned it because the different geometry was the jab in the rear needed for me to reasess my work practices.Tom
that wasn't meant as a dig.. LOL
I don't offend easy.. I'm old and gave up on that stuff long ago.. I have fun!
It is really interesting watching Tom work at the MiniMax Combo. Everything works very smoothly with him standing of to the side. It's easy to see, though, where a traditional push stick would be awkward. When the Gripper started getting press here at Knots, I was very skeptical about it but it's a sweet little accessory.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I have a conventional table saw. I make my favorite push stick out of 3/4" plywood scraps. When I have to rip very small strips, I rip right through the stick. Once it gets grooved out too much, I toss it. The 3/4" size fits nicely into the miter way so it is right there, standing ready behind the fence, when I need it. You don't want to make this style out of solid wood, since the end notch could break off. The long front nose holds down on the work, while the notch hooks on the work piece. Here is a picture of one that is cut through and ready for the trash.
I use the gripper as well. Great invention.
I also have a Grip-tite magnetic system. Another great invention.
I've always made my own push sticks and push blocks from whatever I have on hand.
If I'm ripping narrow stock and know I'm going to cut into the block. I always do a test cut with a piece of scrap to cut into the block before I start production. This way I know exactly where the blade is exiting from the block.
I have a pair of Gripper 200's and a pair of Grip-Tites. Between the two of them, I've got everything covered, I think.
Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting
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Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.
I've made mine, either from plywood or solid stock. I like a high handle that keeps my hand up off the table and enables me to put pressure forward of the heel. I plan to make one or two that have a thin pushing/holding area but ride on the fence.
One design that I do not like is the stick with the bird's-mouth shape at the end and the skinny handle at the top.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I've got a hand-full of different push sticks. Some made of scrap wood, some from LEXAN (NOT plexiglass). Favorite.. a plywood one shaped like a rip-saw handle, 3/4" wide. I use several 1/4" lexan ones for those real thin cuts. As the tip gets chewed up, I just recut the notch. When it is too short for my comfort, I replace it totally. I use a masons float (rubber face) for large flat panel work and also on the jointer. I've just made one that straddles the rip fence. The side is 1/4" tempered masonite. The sides can be replaced as they get chewed up too. NO aluminum, NO ice-picks, nothing fancy. If a special application comes up, I'll design a push-stick speciffically for that job. SawdustSteve
When I moved up to a saw with the biesmeyer fence, I took advantage of the channel on the top of the fence between the two fence sides. I cut a piece of wood that would slide smoothly on the top and then attached another piece on top of that that brought the edge over flush with the face of the fence. I attached the actual "push stick" which is a piece of 1/4" ply with a stepped face that increments in 1/4 inch increments to accomodate various thichness of material to cut (1/4, 1/2, 3/4). On the top I screwed an old sears jointer push block which has a nice molded plastic handle.
The advantage of this design is that it always rides straight and flush to the fence and I have no fear that I might slip and hit the blade. Downside is that it won't work well with a blade guard if you are cutting real close to the fence, but then you cant use the guard much that close anyway. If anybody is interested I can shoot a pix or two and post it.
"If anybody is interested I can shoot a pix or two and post it."
Yes, please do!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
FG
Here ya go.
Thanks for the pics Bob. Anyone else out there have pictures of a specialty push-stick/block go ahead an post them. I'll collect 'em and make a page with thumbnails and all that good stuff.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Bob,
I can see how the device you designed pushes the work past the saw blade, but how does it hold the work tight to the rip fence and keep it from drifting toward the blade?
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
If I am understanding what you are saying, it puts pressure down on the work not in or out from the fence. A regular push stick really wouldn't do much more to hold it into the fence either. You only use a stick to control the work when there isn't enough room for your fingers to guide it. I have never had any problems with this design and have never had a kickback using it. The stepped edge comforms to most thicknesses that I cut, especially sheet goods.
"A regular push stick really wouldn't do much more to hold it into the fence either."
Bob,
I guess we'll have to disagree on this point. The reason I would not use a design like yours is precisely because there is no mechanism with which I can assure the stock is held firmly against the rip fence.-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
Holding it against the fence is the job of featherboards in the miter slot and the splitter.
Just my $0.01
1 - measure the board twice
2 - cut it once
3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go
4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
Browsing through an out-of-print De Cristoforo book yesterday, ran across the design below. Looks handy! BTW, for newbies, if you happen to see a copy of Popular Science Complete Book of Power Tools by R.J. De Cristoforo, I'd highly recommend it. I picked it up in an auction lot last year, and it is a very, very useful book. [oops, meant to address the post to "All"]
View Image
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Edited 5/6/2005 1:16 pm ET by forestgirl
I have that Gripper now. My previous push sticks were all home made, all Douglas fir, mostly plywood scraps. I always figured that it was supposed to be OK to let the push stick get cut up as you use it. Then re-notch it or toss it.
-- J.S.
Geesh its not rocket science..:>) I make mine out of what ever scrap I have around the shop.
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