What’s the best material to use for panels?
castavn
| Posted in General Discussion on
Hi guys,
I’m working on new doors and drawer fronts for refinished kitchen cabinets, using 4/4 maple that planes down to just under 3/4″. For the shaker-style flat, recessed panels, I’m planning to use maple plywood. I can choose between 1/4″ or 1/2″ thickness. Which would be better suited for this style? If I go with the 1/2″, I’m guessing I’d need to rabbet the edge to keep enough material along the rails and stiles. Any advice?
JW
Replies
Thicker ply is heavier, putting more strain on the door hinges. 1/4" of good quality veneered ply seems a better choice, keeping the 3:1 traditional ratio for what are essentially long M&T joints all 'round the door.
The "good quality" matters as the cheaper thin plywood can be prone to more warpage because of internal voids and a mish-mash of poor quality timbers employed in constructing the plies.
I always use 1/4" and center it in the rail and stiles.
To me there’s nothing cheaper feeling than a cabinet door with 1/4” panels, just like the big box store cabinets have. Just opening and closing one feels cheap. The solid feel of a 1/2” panel makes a big difference in perceived quality. As for it putting too much strain on the hinges, what? Every kitchen cabinet door with raised panels ever made would disagree. Back when I built 15-20 kitchens a year, for flat panel doors we would use panels of 1/2” solid wood or plywood, depending on species and finish. Some species were available sliced vs rotary for a solid wood look. Maple and birch were rotary A faces, so not as attractive with clear finishes, but great for opaque finishes. Sometimes, though, the B side, which often was sliced veneer, and sometimes looked very good with no imperfections, had figured maple, so that became the front face.In that case we’d use solid panels. We never used MDF back then, but that’s a viable option for opaque finishes. Budget often played a role too, ply panels are much cheaper.
I would second the 1/2" panels. This way you can cut your rabbit on the edges to exactly fit the groves on the doors. 1/4" plywood is usually undersized and can vary in thickness even in the same sheet.
I made some maple cabinet doors and used the cheaper mdf core 1/4 panels. I did have the good veneer on both sides so I wasn't entirely cheap. The panel is sold in mm measurement and the "undersized plywood" bits Whiteside makes are an exact fit. 9 years and no rattles.
If you are going to paint the cabinets, I suggest you use 1/4-inch MDF. It is dead flat, is a true 1/4 inch and takes paint well. On the other hand, if you are going to stain the cabinets, I suggest you use a plywood and veneer the face and back which should be close to 1/4 inch. Most ply you get is metric and will be a bit thinner than a 1/4 inch. However, the veneer will make up the difference. I have done it both ways. For the veneer you can get a large sheet of paperbacked veneer in the species of your choice. It is thin so sanding if any has to be done very carefully. People use contact cement, but it can be a hassle and messy. Give unibond veneer glue a try instead rolling it on.
For shaker-style recessed panels, 1/4" maple plywood is the better choice. It’s lightweight, traditional for this style, and fits easily into standard 1/4" grooves without requiring extra work like rabbeting. While 1/2" plywood feels more substantial and resists warping better, it adds unnecessary weight and complexity to the build. Stick with 1/4" for a simpler, cleaner result that aligns with the classic shaker aesthetic.