HELLO ALL ,WHATS YOUR FAVORITE SAW, AND WHY, HAND OR POWER ,DELTA,GRIZZLY,POWERMATIC,JET, ETC. MARK.
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Mark, I'm sure you'll get plenty of responses to this since we have been all over this subject several times in the past. If you want, you can do a search on the subject of table saws, contractor saws, cabinet saws, etc and probably turn up a bunch of info. Personally, I like my Jet because it is what I could afford at the time and was a big step up from what I had. Now, I need to step up to a commercial grade saw and I'm not sure at all what brand I want.
Expressions Fine Wood Working and Cabinetry..A division of Schefer Engineering Inc., Santa Rosa, Ca.
Like Cutoff, I like my Ryobi BT3000 because "it is what I could afford at the time and was a big step up from what I had." What did i have before the BT3000? Nothing. Was my choice a mistake? Not at all; I'd buy it again in a heartbeat. Undoubtedly the best saw $399 can buy. On the other hand. . . under ideal circumstances (unlimited budget, climate controled shop, etc.), I'd probably have a Hammer or an Inca (or used to be that way, except that Inca seems to have folded recently).
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Norm,
I have to say, I am fascinated by the response generated by the Ryobi BT3000. What kind of saw is it exactly? People seem to have very strong feelings about it one way or the other, to the point where it makes me feel like something special is going on with it.
Norm, could you explain this, from your point of view?
What was it that prez said? gYou wonft have me to kick around much longerh? Sort of applies to the BT3000, since itfs now out of production and supposedly (maybe? hopefully? NOT?) to be replaced by a new and improved version this fall (depending on who you talk to at Ryobi you can hear all kinds of responses to the question).
The BT3000 draws lots of glove it or hate ith type comment, in my view primarily because itfs too different for some peoplefs taste. The gBTh obviously points to its initial conception as a gBenchToph saw, but itfs not like typical benchtops in a number of respects. Like a benchtop it uses a universal motor, and while the power (15A) is obviously not up to the levels of a cabinet saw, itfs more than most benchtops, and itfs cut everything Ifve used it for. More power would always be nice, but then youfre talking $$$.
Also unlike benchtops, itfs not direct drive, but uses two short composite flat belts, a design that gives the saw the deepest depth of cut of any 10h saw on the market while also making it smoother with less vibration out of the box than most contractor saws (the BT3000 passes the nickel test without need for aftermarket pulleys or link belts).
Itfs not meant for heavy or gprofessionalh use, although I know of several pros who use it--most gnotorioush of whom is perhaps Dave Shaw in Malanda (Australia), who even has his motors specially rewound for it to give them more oomph.
Itfs made mostly of aluminum, it adopts a different philosophy with regard to the table and rails (Sliding Miter Table, small center table, with movable right accessory table, and sliding rails), and some people donft spend the time to understand the theory well enough, so they claim that itfs too hard to keep in adjustment. In my experience, while the SMT requires a bit of thought, once you understand it, itfs not hard to keep aligned, and like the Inca, the sliding rails allow quick adjustment to provide wider rip capacity (30h to both right and left of blade) out of the box, and without extension tables, than most standard contractor saws.
Since it has the SMT, it doesnft come with a standard miter slot, although an aftermarket miter slot accessory table is available if you absolutely need one, or one can be made (I know a number of guys who have done it).
It also has excellent dust collection, a Euro-style riving knife that makes it safer than the typical splitters on U.S. saws, and an excellent rip fence for a lightweight saw. Itfs had some documented problems with motor lift bearings (stainless steel shims), but therefs an easy and permanent fix.
Again, itfs not the Inca or Hammer of my dreams, but if you consider the price, it provides a lot of performance for very little money. Outside of additional power, I canft imagine what a more expensive saw wouldfve done for me (amateur weekender) in terms of precision, versatility, or sheer fun.
Norm,
I'm fascinated. If Ryobi has managed to incorporate features such as a built-in sliding table and a safer riving knife, then why can't the more expensive saws do it also? Why can't Delta include such things in the Unisaw? Why can't Jet or Powermatic get a riving knife and sliding table built into their saws?
It's sad news about the Inca. After struggling a long time over which table saw to buy, or whether I should buy a table saw at all, I decided I would buy one, but a GOOD one. I had my heart set on an Inca, which is out of the question now. So, it's back to the drawing board for me on choosing a table saw. I'm looking for a saw with better safety features and preferably a sliding table. That rules out every North American saw on the market. There's of course Hammer, Felder, and Rojek.
This is a topic of endless wonder for me. Whay won't, or why can't, North American table saw manufacturers do these things?
Delta offers a sliding table attachment for the Unisaw. It replaces the cast iron wing to the left of the blade. I have not tried this add-on. I do miss this feature from my old Makita contractors saw.
My home made maple bowsaw. I love using that little thing.
Have fun-Rocky
Hello ,
I have to say that my favorite brands are DeWalt and Delta. They are extremely well built tools. My favorites of all are my Delta compound miter saw and my Delta Woodshaper (basically an upside down router mounted under a table) You can trick out more wood with a woodshaper than you could imagine if you get some books and study the techniques. This is truely an amazing tool.
Good day sir,
Jay Rich
You must checkout Felder.
Well, I have a few favorite saws. My PC handheld circular. As for chainsaws I would have to go with my Stihl 075AV. And I'm not sure if it counts, but my Woodmizer LT40. I don't have a pull saw yet, but have used one and must say it was very nice(I think it was a shark saw). Just my 2 cents.
Mitch
Powermatic 66 rocks!! My choice for a cabinet saw.
Milwaukee circular saw. a beast that can take a daily pounding ( and it does) for framing.
Cast iron (OLD) Dewalt radial arm W/ a forrest blade.
Miami
When I die, I wan't to be burried with my Powermatic 66.
"Hide not your talents, they were for use made. What's a sun-dial in the shade?"
- Benjamin Franklin
OK, but where shall we keep you in the meantime? We're not burying the 66 until it's used up.
Uncle,
I guess in the meantime you could bury me in the gigantic Harbor Freight Tools graveyard."Hide not your talents, they were for use made. What's a sun-dial in the shade?"
- Benjamin Franklin
I'm not going to die until my PM66 does.
TDF
Tell me about it. Once you've owned the PM66 you won't settle for anything less."Hide not your talents, they were for use made. What's a sun-dial in the shade?"
- Benjamin Franklin
I like my 16 inch mikita, I can one pass anything up to a 6inch timber and two pass the biggest timber I have.. the rest are just little saws!
Bon Jour Frenchy,
I didn't know Makita made a 16" table saw. Are you talking about a miter saw? Either way it sounds like one heck of a tool! What a blade!"Hide not your talents, they were for use made. What's a sun-dial in the shade?"
- Benjamin Franklin
Nah,
It's a circular saw, (framers call them side winders) Just a little big is all, the blade actually measures 16&5/16ths The really wierd thing about it is how slow the blade is, it's only turning 2200 rpm at top speed and when you start into a timber you'd swear that it's gonna stall out.
It doesn't, I can rip with it and it will cut straighter than a table saw with it's handy guide. I can peel a 6"x6" timber out of a twelve by twelve and when I run the little six by six thru the planer you'd swear that it was cut at the factory...
It needs to be on it's own circuit though, it draws a full 15 amps and if there is so much as a nightlite on the curcuit it will pop the breaker.
Ofcourse. I remember now seeing that Makita saw for sale in the Tool Crib catalog. I had always wondered about that tool. Such a BIG circular saw. Hadn't thought really what people would use that for until you mentioned milling the timbers. No wonder it requires the dedicated circuit. So how much does a blade like that cost? Do you have it resharpened? "Hide not your talents, they were for use made. What's a sun-dial in the shade?"
- Benjamin Franklin
I think it was $130.00 in carbide. No I haven't had to sharpen it yet. (getting close though, ten months after I started) I did sharpen the steel one when it got dull (about a week after I bought the saw) I think it was pretty cheap since they charge by the tooth and there are only three or four teeth in the blade <G>
'Versatile Saw' - Henniker, NH, 1982 - very sweet -
bought a ryobi 3000 for my dad three years ago and have been quite satisfied with it - took about 3 hours to set up, but once set up it's held tune and is a pleasure to use -
My favorite is "people in glass houses shouldn't throw stones"
Oops, sorry, I thought you said "favorite old saw."
No augument. A Philly Diston. Made by a craftsman - for a craftsman. If it was not respected, your livelihood was on the line. If it was respected, it made for a livelihood.
I love my General 350 that I paid $25 bucks for. Not a scratch or rust on it. Say what you want about those EXPENSIVE saws, my $25 saw works great.
Joe Phillips
Plastics pay the bills, Woodworking keeps me sane!
I am not as nuts as the guy I bought it from.
Joe Phillips
Plastics pay the bills, Woodworking keeps me sane!
That's a tough one. I think the one that gives me the most satisfaction using it is a pull saw. I still can't get over how fine and straight a kerf a pull saw leaves. And how easy it is to use. What were us westerners thinking anyway? It's just too bad the teeth don't last very long in 'hard' hardwoods. John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
Shark Saw... woooooooo way sharp but, you're right, doesnt take long for them to dull up... They are cheap enough to replace regularly.Expressions Fine Wood Working and Cabinetry..A division of Schefer Engineering Inc., Santa Rosa, Ca.
I own the BT3000 and do not really care for it. The saw requires some additional "add-ons" to be really functional. The saw does not have the normal miter slot; it is replaced with the sliding table. This seems to not fulfill my expectations.
For the money; however, the saw is not bad. I believe sears is selling the same saw with a different stand for around 4 bills.
One of my inlaws bought the Jet cabinet saw and seems pleased. If I had it to do over again, I would wait to buy the cabinet saw. Delta or Jet both seem like good products for the average guy building in the home; value and function paramount.
I just wish I could afford to buy one od these myself; other responsibilities are taking precidence.
No question, no hesitation, no need to ponder: my Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw. What a beauty!
Alan
I think my favorite saw is my Delta Unisaw. Its far from new, I called Delta and they said it was made in 1942. I wasn't around then, but I think 60 years later it runs as good as the day it was originally purchased. I have made several projects with it small and large, and It has been a pure joy to use. I have no regrets about selling my contractors saw and buying this one.
Steve
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