Hey all
I wanted to get some opinions on something I’ve been contemplating.
I enjoy turning furniture parts on the lathe and I typically join these with either a wedge through tenon or with a pegged tenon.
I’m wondering other’s thoughts on whether a wedged tenon really needs glue anywhere but the wedge. Lets say concerning a 1” thick by 2” long tenon on a bench leg. I can typically get about 1/4”+ of a wedge in there, and glued I don’t think its going anywhere for a while. I started questioning this after reading the glue optional comment by Curtis Bunchanan in the latest issue. I realize its a complete different set of circumstances, but it got me thinking how I can eliminate part if the glue process.
Thanks for lookin 🙂
Replies
If the mortise is a straight drilled hole, the wedge slot is a straight cut and you can only seat 1/4" of wedge you're probably only getting solid wedge contact on the outside edge & I would glue the tenon. If you flare open the mortise to allow the wedge to expand the tenon the contact will be on more of the wedge and "glue optional" becomes an option. If you do this, relief-drill the bottom of the slot to prevent splitting the leg.
Ah, perhaps I’ll experiment with opening the slot a bit to receive a larger portion of the wedge.
I typically start with a squeaky tight tenon that has to be pounded in one a stretcher is attached. Good advice regarding making a relief.
I'll just say a properly sized and fitted joint only needs glue on the wedge.
If the wedge stays put via adhesive, the rest of the joint is secured mechanically.
As always, everything depends on application, aesthetics, etc., etc.
This is what I was thinking. I fit them very snug. I use hide glue, which definitely eases assembly in a way by acting as lubricant.
Perhaps this would be a good youtube glue myth video?
I'm not able to speak from experience, but would anticipate that a round tenon might fail from torsion, which would rub the wood and cause it to become loose over time. Glue would prevent this movement.
Traditionally such parts were made with dry tenons into wet mortices, resulting in a super tight joint as the wood of a chair seat dried.
If the joint is not well-fitted then glue will probably make very little difference to it's strength. If it is well fitted then the friction will probably be enough to make my concerns irrelevant.
Interesting. I’d watch that video!
Don’t you think proper stretchers counter torsion?
I’d love to get into carving my seats from green wood. If anyone reads this and knows where in NYC one might find suitable blanks I’d love to talk!
I noticed my local park has a number of maples down. I’m an apt dweller though, so logistically could be tough to work the logs into blanks…
"proper stretchers" as you call them can be attached more securely by using a fox tenon.
Hmm maybe, but excessive. I typically pin a stretcher. A ‘proper stretcher’ does just that, properly stretches the legs a bit, at least thats how I feel.
The wedge is oriented horizontally, so it is believed to help to resist racking.
An even more secure solution is the same fox tenon method but with the mortise dovetailed.
There used to be specialty bits called "tenon lok" available to widen the base of the mortise. This makes a stronger mechanical connection than a straight wedged mortise.
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