Replies

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Jun 10, 2009 07:53pm | #1

   Basically, shellac does not cure. It is an evaporative finish. When the alcohol is completely evaporated, the finish is fully dry. That said, if you shellac is not fresh, when fully evaporated, the shellac will be sort of gummy rather than hard.

   You can try giving it another 24 hours.

   Also, what your you using for your lubricant? You should be using mineral spirits or thinned mineral oil.

   Howie.........
2. 
   saschafer | Jun 10, 2009 08:13pm | #2

   Shellac is very prone to creating "seeds" or "corns" that stick to the sandpaper. Sanding with lubrication helps, but doesn't entirely eliminate the problem.

   -Steve

    

3. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 13, 2009 06:08am | #3

   I have no idea.. I do use the gray 3M pads to finish off any 'bumps' in the finish and do the same after each coat..

4. 
   71Atlas | Jun 13, 2009 06:34pm | #4

   I waited another 24 hours and still picking up bits of shellac on the sandpaper. I was using water as a lubricant. I finished sanding and overcoat it with poly and called it done.

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Jun 14, 2009 01:22am | #5

   Water is not the best choice as lubricant when rubbing out shellac. Better to use mineral spirits or a mineral oil thinned with mineral spirits.Howie.........

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 14, 2009 08:53pm | #6

   Any particular reason for thinning the mineral oil? I never do. Not that it is the right thing to do....

5. 
   frenchy | Jun 14, 2009 10:56pm | #7

   There is another approach to putting on shellac.  I've never had a single problem when I over thin the shellac.. What happens is that overthinned shellac dries really quickly.  The first coat is dry enough to work 15 minutes later.  At that Point I go over the shellac with a 220 3M sanding sponge (dry)  only enough to take off the little nibs that get raised from the shellac.. It takes but a second to a second and a half per sq.ft. to do.. you aren't trying to make the shellac smooth you are trying to simply remove nibs 

    The next coat will melt into the first coat and destroy all your efforts. So don't worry if you missed a spot or two or whatever..

     Doing it this way requires a "sloppy" approach to painting..  Speed is everything, perfection doesn't matter and will cause problems if you are too slow and produce a dry edge.   Flood it on and don't worry about runs etc.. this thin a mixture won't leave the tell tail runs that thicker mixtures will.

      The second coat will take about a 1/2 hour to dry.  (slightly longer on damp days) double check that you got all the nibs with the first sanding.. if you've missed any go right ahead and sand them off.  No need to do the whole thing, just where you feel the nibs..  and the third and final coat will double the drying time of the second coat (about an hour)

     In my opinion shellac is the finest finish you can put on wood for indoor use. IT's the finish prefered by antique dealers and violin makers. 

    Polyurethanes look too plastic and cheap in comparison..

     Shellac is remarkably tough too. I have it on my floors and now years latter my 150 pound dog hasn't marked it with his claws (and he absolutely refuses to clip his toenails)  <grin>  I had an airconditioner leak water onto the floor and made a giant 6foot diameter puddle   (many  hours later I discovered it and wiped it up)  the only differance I noticed the next morning  is that part of the floor was dust free.