When to “ease” edges vs. rounding over
Friends –
I briefly studied woodworking with an instructor who had been a Krenov student, and we pretty much learned that style. My instructor was very much into things looking hand worked and natural, and when it came to edges and outside corners, he usually did it either with sandpaper for easing/breaking the edges and a small plane for rounding over. In my own work, I use my router table a lot and have mostly done round overs that way.
How and when do you make the decision to use a router, plane, sandpaper, or something else when it comes to edges? Do you treat inside edges (where there is joinery) differently than outside? Do you do table tops differently from legs, drawers, and shelves? My class was a three month intensive, and while I learned a lot, I certainly didn’t learn everything.
Thanks for the input.
Replies
I personally think edges that have been heavily rounded (like with a round over router) look cheap/dated. Especially on things like table tops, where the effect ends up being that the wood looks thinner than it is. I like to just knock the sharp edges off with a bit of sandpaper, I find files take off too much and leave a distinct pattern.
When I use a router bit on an edge I like it to be pretty, for example a concave cut into the edges of a post (stopping and starting a couple of inches before the ends).
I agree with Billie that rounding over the corners looks dated and a little drab. I use a low angle block plane to chamfer the corners on my work. It leaves a crisp looking angled plane that reflects light that, literally, highlights the form.
Different opinion: I usually round over with a small router bit. On many of my unfinished pieces the edges are so sharp you can get cut from them. My position is that I want something that will will be pleasant to use. I do not use anything greater than 1/4", usually less. I also use 45's on some things. It really depends on the style of item you are making. I also sand a bit after using the edge bits.
As stated above, it is a matter of aesthetics or taste. Do what you like best. The only exception to that would be if you are copying a particular style.
I tend toward very subtle edges and like the look and feel created with a 1/16” round-over bit. It’s just a little more than breaking the edge with sandpaper but softens the edge aesthetically (for me). I also like an edge that won’t easily cut or bruise the hand or leg and that still hides the occasional ding.
Rounding over is a design choice. Easing the edge is to keep the wood from splintering.
Fashions change - what is 'right' now will not be so in 20 years.
90 years ago, a thumbnail profile was common
60 years back, it was a deep under-chamfer and a rounded edge.
40 years ago, the Roman Ogee was popular.
30 years ago a heavy roundover with a lip then morphed into a smoother roundover which shrank over the years from 1/2 to 1/4 then 1/8.
I think it depends a bit on whimsy for me. Right now I'd agree that the smaller roundovers are better - also far less likely to chip out as you can't really take too deep a pass with the router. With MCM style more 'in' at the moment, I find I tend to do an undercut with a sandpaper or block-plane broken top edge.
As for choice - I choose the faceted edge where I can, but the roundover if I want the edge to flow round corners, or if the piece is to be held a lot. Sandpaper to break sharp edges if the item is very small or the appearance of a crisp edge is needed.
Reading "Take the Edge Off" by Garrett Hack, FWW Issue #221, Sept/Oct 2011 will likely be helpful to you.
I agree it is a design choice. I usually break edges with a block plane. I tend to have very shaker inspired pieces and like clean crisp edges.
Not not every piece is that right. I made some toy boxes for my nieces and they got roundovers in most edges. I did just ease the edges of the frame and panel parts but lid and corners got a roundovers. I also tend to round over parts I expect to be touched a lot to give a smoother feel vs look.
What you do on the edges is completely subjective. What you do and how you do it has more to do with the design of the project , rules of order maybe or simply what you like ,or what a client likes , more than anything else. Sam Maloof solved the problem for himself by incorporating hard edges and soft edges on the same piece.
That's what I often do on dining tables that will have people's arms against the edge. I use a large diameter round-over bit (1/2" or 5/8") with a larger bearing or set into the router table fence to give a soft curve blending into the top, and a subtle hard line along the edge. Makes it comfortable but not "muddy" in appearance.
In general, I use my edge treatment thoughtfully, and as part of the overall design.
Even my "sharp" edges are eased a bit just to make finishing work better. A sharp physical edge can cause finish to "back up" and leave a think "edge" of finish.
I avoid rounding edges, preferring to simply chamfer the edge ever so slightly using a block plane. Relieving edges and corners of sharp edges is a criteria as well as having light reflect on the narrow edge chamfer.
Norman