I am constructing dovetail drawers. The drawer fronts are red oak, to which I want to apply a wiping varnish with a thin coat of dewaxed shellac and an added stain color. The drawers sides, back, back and bottom are also red oak but I want them to remain colorless. For these latter parts, would you recommend multiple coats of colorless dewaxed shellac or lacquer? But my main question is how/when do I apply the stains versus do the glueing? I have taped all the side grain glueing parts of all pieces. If I use hide glue, will that allow me to glue fully stained pieces together and to merely wipe off leading glue without damaging the finishes?
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Replies
When I've done projects like this, I've started with raw wood pieces and masked off the glue surfaces with blue tape. Then I've stained what I want to stain. Depending on the shape, also varnished at this point. Then glue up. Hide glue is good because it's easier to remove squeeze out.
You really can't stain and varnish just the drawer front once assembled, IMO. So some version of what I suggest seems like the best way to go.
For your split-finish plan prefinishing the fronts and all of the interior surfaces before glueup is a good idea, ONLY IF you can dial in the fit in advance. If there's any planing done to fit the drawers after glueup the prefinish can wind up being removed.
I'm assuming you're doing half-blinds for the front-to-side connection and you're staining for contrast in the joint?
Thanks mschlsck.
To mj, yes, I am staining and using wiping varnish on the half blind dovetails on the front, to contrast with non stained remaining pieces.
Do either of you have comments about usind dewaxed shellac versus clear lacquer on the unstained pieces? Which of those two is more tolerant of application temperatures about 50? Thanks again!
user-3131378, I have no experience with lacquer. not having a spray booth, I never use it.
Water-based or shellac for the interiors of drawers. Any petro-solvent in there can stink for eons.
Assuming 50 F, that's considered "the number" for applying water based anything. Zin's sealcoat is also 50 I think. The shellac will dry faster. With a few drawers to do, by the time you put on a coat you can start over on the second coat.