Replies

1. 
   JJV | Mar 17, 2006 11:48pm | #1

   Depends on what you are doing...I have used a washcoat of super blonde shellac on pine and that has worked better than any sanding sealer I have ever used.  You can buy the flakes and make it yourself or I think they may sell it ready-made at the big boxes or paint stores.  I use something like 1 part shellac to 3 parts denatured alcohol or something.  Mess around with it until you get the right mix. 

   I recently made a large table and I wanted to leave the top mostly unfinished, but it needed to be stained.  I applied linseed oil first, rubbed it in and wiped off the excess, then put the oil-based stain on immediately afterward.  The color was not as even as it would have been with a washcoat of shellac, but that's what I was after. 

   That's what's worked for me; I'm sure others will pile on and tell me I'm a hack, so take it FWIW. 

   Maybe someday I'll know a little something.
2. 
   Pondfish | Mar 18, 2006 04:35am | #2

   Zinsser sealcoat is available.  It's basically a 2# cut of dewaxed blond shellac.

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
3. 
   Jay | Mar 18, 2006 10:19pm | #3

   I believe Minwax makes a product they call "Sanding Sealer".  Not sure if it's anything different than just blonde shellac, but they sell it at HD and you can probably check it out on the Minwax website.

4. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 18, 2006 11:05pm | #4

   Most sanding sealers do not meet state VOC emission standards.  There is no way to make them fast drying without exceeding these standards. 

   You can probably expect that all solvent based finishes will fall by the wayside in the next few years.  For all intents and purposes, California is headed that way.  Whatever California does, other states with poor air quality will follow.  The NYC area is never far behind.

   That said, there are a number of alternatives which are as good, if not better, than sanding sealer.

   Howie.........

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   Edited 3/19/2006 11:54 am ET by HowardAcheson

   
   

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   Edited 3/19/2006 11:55 am ET by HowardAcheson

1. 
   wrudiger | Mar 18, 2006 11:46pm | #5

   So far at least the Zinzzer Seal Coat is still available in CA.  Keepin my fingers crossed!  Can't get Waterlox though :-(.

5. 
   TomT226 | Mar 19, 2006 02:44pm | #6

   Lots of WB high-build sealers out.  Check out Target Coatings.  Go to http://www.homesteadfinishing.com

    

    

6. 
   user-126535 | Mar 21, 2006 08:28am | #7

   Zinser seal coat....works very well.  Another way to go is yellow wood glue. The same principle as when you have stain that didn't work in the'squeze out areas' but dilute it.  Pro Bond, Elmers, Tite Bond etc.  Mix ratio is APPROX. 1/4 cup of glue to 2+ cups of luke warm water.  Using a foam brush,  apply it like you were painting the solution on (using a pc. of SCRAP FIRST) and let dry.  After drying apply stain to pc and see if it will stain dark enough for you.  By adjusting either glue ratio or colour of stain, you can 'dial in' the right look for what you're trying to achieve. Done correctly, this will allieviate all blotchy areas associated with trying to stain pine and or cherry wood. Works like a shellac wash.  To save you money in Tylenol, make sure you try this on scrap wood first. Good Luck !

7. 
   wchips | Mar 21, 2006 08:31pm | #8

   Hi

     Diamond Vogal stores carrey sanding sealer. Just bought a gallon last week.

       Have a nice day Lee

1. 
   user-97209 | Mar 22, 2006 06:46am | #9

   Thanks to all, past and future, for your help. I did find a shellac based sanding sealer at another paint store in the same town. Will post when the project is finished to let you know how it came out.

   (how much damage can the vapors from a pint of shellac or stain do?)