Just curious on cabinets, mine are shaker. Is there a right place to put the knobs and pulls? I was thinking the top and bottom corners of the lowers and uppers respectively. But how far down or up off the floor, or do I go specific distance above and below the countertop? Thanks
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There aren't any rules with knobs and pulls other than centering a single pull on a drawer front. Personally, I think placing the knob farther up on the stile gives more of a shaker look. If you look at shaker pieces, the door knobs are often either in the center or slightly off center. I haven't seen any with the knobs close to the corners. There are often locks in the center with the knob placed below or above and there are also wooden latches fixed to the knobs which is why they are often centered. Check out "The illustrated Guide to Shaker Furniture" by Robert F. W. Meader or other such books. Obviously, you want to be able to reach the knobs but the corners isn't typical for the shaker style.
For doors, it's what looks best, which is somewhere nearer the corner than the middle. I put mine within a few inches from where rail and stile meet on the inside.
For drawers with single knobs, center but slightly high of the vertical center. For double knobbed drawers, about 25% in from the ends, again slightly high of center. That is, for a 5" high drawer front, center the knob about 2" (not 2.5") from the top edge.
If you go to HD, they have a jig for locating pulls and knobs. It's marketed by Blum and has several holes, depending on whether it has screw spacing of 90mm, 100mm, 110mm or whatever. There are two parts, one for pulls/knobs and one for European hinges. I think it's less than $10
Another question I have a inside 45 corner unfortunately the style of knobs makes it impossible to open or close the doors, can you get them with an angle to push them out from the corner a little or do you cut 1/4 inch off of them so they clear one another?
Good point! This is one of those areas that should be picked up by kitchen designers and cabinetmakers. The problem is solved by adding fillers or wider stiles in the corner. The overall layout has to account for the extra and it is often missed. I guess folks are used to lazy susans or fold open doors. It should be seen before construction.It can happen with appliances too, a drawer won't open due to the handle on the range or dishwasher. This is one item I try to remember looking for when I install manufactured cabinets. The other is not allowing room for the crown moldings. I installed a kitchen display area in a building center with 30 different kitchen units from 20 different manufacturers. All the designs were done at the corporate level by well known kitchen manufacturers. Not one of them picked up on the need to build the partition walls of the display area longer than the run of the cabinets with countertops. I'm glad I didn't build all the walls to the specs on the floor plan. All of the end returns on the crown molding would have been hanging out in the air instead of dying into a wall. That would have made an attractive display.If your doors or drawers overlap a face frame, you may be able to shift them. Applied drawer fronts are often easy to shift. Depending on the hinge, you may have to cut the stile to move the doors over. On a frameless job, I had to cut a little off both sides of the door, reshape the edge and refinish to match. There wasn't room for fillers.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
This is a frameless kitchen, I have reasonably wide styles to work with 2 1/4. If I cut any off I'm going to have a large gap in the doors. Is there an offsetting hinge available or anything like that. I only say this b/c the doors are laquered I don't think I can duplicate that.
I'm not sure I completely understand your situation. Are you doors overlay or inset? What type of hinges are on the doors now, euro cup style or do the hinges show? Are you using wooden knobs in a shaker style? You may be able to alter a wooden knob for less projection. Could you reverse the opening of one of the doors? I can't think of a hinge that will cause the door to set back as you open it. Pictures are great but a sketch works, too.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Center on the flat of the stile and 3" from the top/bottom edge of the door. This doe vary depending on the type of knob. But 2 1/2"-3" is a good starting point. Center the pulls on the drawer fronts or sometimes I center the pull on the top drawer and then use this same measurement for the drawers below the top drawer
I'm going to send you a pic I just need to know how. If you don't mind explaining
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