Replies

1. 
   Major_H._Patterson | Dec 03, 2001 09:30pm | #1

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   Allison: I suggest that you make the mortises and tenons BEFORE you run the stickings. Now run the stickings on both stiles and rails in the normal manner.Remove the sticking on the stiles even with the INSIDE edge of the mortise. cut the tenon back on the rails even with the edge of the sticking.Now a 45 miter on the sticking at the mortise and the rail at the tenon,will give the joint that you are looking for.Sorry that I can`t include a sketch,but many books on woodwork will show this process. You may need to cut the tenon a little shorter to allow the joint to close.FWIW ¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬

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   Major_H._Patterson | Dec 04, 2001 08:24pm | #2

   *DANO: I am not the best at making coherent descriptions,however.This method was used long before the electric router was invented.The rail meets the stile in the conventional manner,and allows the use long tenons if needed for strength in heavy frames. A complete description and photos are to be found in FWW #98--pages 66- 67 & 68 Have a good holiday season.¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

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   Major_H._Patterson | Dec 05, 2001 01:15am | #3

   *Dano: This is the same method described in the FWW article.The matching joint has the 45deg. angle backing up to the edge of the mortise.Easy to do once you remember to allow for these miters when milling the mortises and tenons.The article in FWW shows a clear picture of the setup suggested for removing the necessary part of the sticking in the mortise area.I will conduct a new search of the index and see if a similar description may be in a later issue.If succesful, I will post the new information.For most rail and stile and panel assemblies,I frefer the neatness of the coped joint produced by the great varity of the matched cutter sets currently available .There seems to be enough glue surface insure a strong joint.As with any operation,straight and square edged stock without twist,coupled with due attention to set up, insures a quality joint.Dano,I am amazed at the variety and quality of the information to be found in these discussions.Regardless of the years spent in the craft,new ideas and ways of doing things sometime come from the the most unlikely sources.¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬

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   Alison_Swann-Ingram | Dec 05, 2001 08:33am | #4

   *Guys,thanks for the advice and for the discussion. It's been very useful, so thanks for taking the time.Using pretty much all of the methods you described on a couple of test pieces, and then moving on to the real piece, I've found that the following process has worked reasonably well.1. Using the Amana stile and rail bit (actually just the bit that does the sticking and groove), I routed the entire inside of each stile and rail.2. I then cut off the sticking from the stiles to the height of the bottom of the sticking on the rail.3. Using a Dano's jig I am in the process of mitering the sticking on both the rails and the stiles. Although, I have to say I'm finding this very tricky and the first two I've done "gape" somewhat - the first was lousey, the second a little better. Even with the jig, the 45* mitre is hard to cut perfectely it seems. I can tell now that I'm cutting them back too far. More advice here would be great.What's taken the time is that I've found I've had to fiddle with the mortise and tennons...but I have a tight fitting joint/seam between the stile and rail,so so far so good.Thank you very much for the advice. It's encouraging and makes for a little less lip biting tension when I'm making sawdust.Alison.

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   Major_H._Patterson | Dec 05, 2001 03:27pm | #5

   *Allison: Practice on scrap stock is always a good idea. If the miters are slightly open,and you have a little leeway on the final size of the frame,you could trim the inside edge of the tenon and let it move closer to the miter on the stile. to keep a tight joint,you may have to add a thin shim to the tenons other side. The ability to correct small items of error is one of the marks of a good craftsman.¬¬PAT¬¬