Replies

1. 
   madhouse | Jul 29, 2006 07:54am | #1

   Beware the word cheap.  When it comes to a finish that can be trouble.  There is nothing worse than working on a project long and hard to have a cheap finish ruin the whole project.  So as far as being economical, you can usually buy good, name brand finishes at a local hardwared store, lumber yard or chain like Menard's or Home Depot.  If you wish to order online, there is Rockler's, Woodworkers Supply, and many more.  Shipping can make the difference in price.  Sometimes they offer free shipping. 

1. 
   byhammerandhand | Jul 29, 2006 05:38pm | #5

   Like madhouse implies, the finish is normally the least expensive component of a project when you consider your time, materials, hardware, and tools. Don't cheap out here, because it's usually the most visible part of any project. People will seldom say, "Wow, haunched mortise and tenon joints," but they will say, "Wow, what a beautiful finish."The difference between a discount store finish and a top-quality finish is likely to be just a few dollars.

2. 
   yieldmap | Jul 29, 2006 08:00am | #2

   With finish supplies, the shipping can get you, since they're heavy.  I've found that the local Woodcraft or Woodworkers Shop has good quality products and the knowledge to go with them.  I'll pay an extra dollar per quart to not have to deal with the idiot at the big orange or blue box.  Especially if you have a question on what finish can go with what other, etc.  The guys at the specialty store are worth it.

   Another lesson learned from the big box...age of the finish.  I bought some shellac there only to find it was already too old to be used.  How did I find this out, you ask...put it on a really nice project, then wait for it to never actually cure.  Soft and sticky, I finally peeled it off and headed to Woodcraft to get some quality stuff.

1. 
   madhouse | Jul 29, 2006 08:33am | #3

   I also pay the extra dollar when it comes to finish.  My favorite is Waterlox.  That you can buy direct from the manufacturer online.  Just another option.

1. 
   pins | Jul 30, 2006 10:57pm | #9

   I bought Waterlox from these guys:http://www.paintsource.net/and if memory serves they had the best price around.I also sprung for a 20lb tank of Argon and use it every time I re-seal a can of finish, any oil based finish. The tank cost about $100 and it will last for years the way I use it. And it doesn't take many $43 gallons of Waterlox to turn to gel to realize the value of the Argon.Many of these finishes have hardeners, catalyzers and other additives which are reactive to oxygen and they will turn to gel throughout, not just a skin on top.John

1. 
   madhouse | Jul 31, 2006 05:41am | #11

   Thanks!  I will be checking this web site out.  I've seen bloxygen for air space in cans.  Is it as good?

1. 
   pins | Jul 31, 2006 01:42pm | #12

   Yes, its as good, but it is a terrible value. If you don't want to but a tank of Argon you can just lease one for probably less than $25 and then just have it refilled when you need it. See if there's an Airgas rep somewhere around you.John

3. 
   forestgirl | Jul 29, 2006 04:47pm | #4

   Rephrasing the above:  Don't go cheap, go smart.  Buy quality finishes at the best price you can find.  The big box stores carry Zinsser shellac, including Seal Coat sometimes, just check the manufacturing/expire date on the can before buying.  I like the Olympic Gel Stains, which can be found at Home Depot.  Many of the best products, though, do seem to be hard to find.  One of the best resources for finishing information and products is Jeff Jewitt's web site Homestead Finishing.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

4. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 29, 2006 06:17pm | #6

   Let me reinforce what the others have said.  The finishing material industry is a very competitive business, so price tends, though not in every instance, to reflect quality.  You spend hundreds on wood for a project plus many hours, so why not spend $50 for the finishing.  There is no free lunch.

5. 
   BruceS | Jul 29, 2006 07:37pm | #7

   When you boil it down.  Watco, Danish Oils, Fornbys, Minwax Antique Oil and Waterlox are all basically a mixture of BLO, Tung oil and mineral spirits.  So I mix up my own with a richer mixture of oil  than the above mentioned.  A gallon of BLO goes a very long way.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

6. 
   jazzdogg | Jul 29, 2006 09:01pm | #8

   Hi Tom,

   How do you measure cheapest? A few observations:

   Mail ordering finishes can result in a lengthy delay because solvent-based finishes have to be shipped by truck - no VOCs on airplanes.

   As someone else hinted, buy finishing products with finite shelf lives from places that have a high rate of inventory turnover to avoid buying stale product; buying esoteric finishing products from big box stores can be foolish. Look for the obvious: "Born-on" dates and layers of dust on containers.

   To save money by minimizing the number of different finishing products you have to buy, purchase gloss, not satin or semi-gloss; you can always reduce the sheen of a gloss finish in the rubbing-out process; however, because low-sheen products have silicates added to reduce the way they reflect light, there's not much you can do to rub them to a higher sheen.

   To reduce the amount of shellac you throw away after it goes bad, but flakes and mix only as much as you need.

   To maximize yield, avoid aerosol finishes; they're mostly carrier and propellant; when spraying your own finishes, use an HVLP rig instead of a high-pressure gun.

   Buying from knowledgeable suppliers can save lots of money in the long run: fewer inappropriate purchases, less trial & error, better advice and support.

   There are many ways to save money when finishing - not just by buying cheap. I'm sure there are several other ways I've overlooked.

   Good luck,

    

    

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

7. 
   mudman | Jul 30, 2006 11:45pm | #10

   You have left out another consideration that we need to know.... Is this cabinetry, furmiture or smaller craft type projects? I use Sherman Williams Conversion Varnish for all my larger jobs. Cabinetry, builtins, archetechual work or anything that will be used an a daily basis. It is not expensive compaired to other options, about $55 a gallon. But you also have to buy the catalist which is $20 a gallon (I think). They have options that don't require purchasing catalist as well. This stuff is clear, never yellows, is bomb proof, sprays nice, everything you could want.

   For furniture or more decorative art pieces I prefer Shellac, and I use the zinzer stuff at Home Depot. Yes check the date code under the can. Really ANY time you use Shellac or a oil varnish mix you shouls test it on a scrap piece first. There have been numerous tests compairing different finishes and the high dollar specialty finishes never fair well compaired to Minwax and Zinzer.

   Mike

   Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.