Hi all,
This being my first post it’s safe to say I’m new to the woodworking experience. I’m an avid model airplane builder (Control Line) but also enjoy building anything I can. My table saw is a 100.00 Harbor frieght wonder and am going to get a decent one, but where is the best place to buy?. I’ve been looking at the Contractor saws since they seem to fit my needs at present and budjet. I’m trying to read up on these saws but will learn by use I’m sure. I’ve decided on either the Grizzly G0438RL or the Delta 36-980. Both seem about the same but the Delta is my prefered choice if I can get the price in line. Grizzly wants 635.00 and I work for a trucking company that does buisness with them so my shipping charges are about 1/2 what they show on there web site. The cheapest so far on the Delta is 659.99 + shipping at Toolmarts, I’ll have to call to get shipping price. So after the long way around the barn any places cheaper ?? Thanks
Replies
I see you're not being over-whelmed with responses Lee. Probably as your question is not easy to answer. Sales and mark-downs occur often so what is today.. may not be what is tomorrow. If I may make a suggestion.. first do some searching for equilavent models that fit your budget. Then Google the model such as Grizzly 0438RL or Delta 36-980 and see what sites pop up on your computer. Open the site and check current prices.
As an alternative.. for a few $$ more you very well may find a more expensive cabinet saw on your local Craigs List.. Most used will range used from $600-$800. A bit more but might save you an upgrade down the road if you get into this hobby heavy and have the need to rip any significant thicknesses.. etc.
Good luck and enjoy the journey... I wish I could have gotten quick responses to information 39 years ago but it just wasn't available and everything was trial and error so to speak... :>)
Hi Leeco, and welcome to the Knots board. I've purchased tools from Grizzly, Home Depot, Lowes, and others. If you are near one of the three Grizzly stores, they run a 'scratch and dent' sale several times a year. These items have cosmetic blemishes, but are fine mechanically. You just have to be there at the right time. Your profile does not list where you are located, but another source is Craigs list. You've got to know what you're looking at, but lots of good sales can be found there. Don't be too ashamed of your harbor freight saw, with a bit of care, you can get some good work out of it, especially if you're making smaller items. On the 'front page' of the Knots board, scroll down to the bottom of the page. There is a listing of woodworking clubs. See if there is a club in your area. They might be able to give you a lead on some good machinery at great prices, as club members upgrade their machinery. If you are really serious about woodworking and your budget and space allow, you may want to go directly to one of the better saws. There are many discussions anout Saw-Stop. Take some time and read them.
One recommendation I'll give you is to learn how to sharpen your cutting tools. Nothing makes work a royal pain like a dull tool. If you ask here about sharpening, you'll get several different answers, with each guy or gal who answers swearing that they have the ultimate system. I've played around with 3 or 4 different systems. One that I like, and seems prety goof-proof is the Work Sharp 3000 system. It does a nice job and is easy to learn. Hope to see you around on the board...
SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC)
The Delta contractor saw is the workhorse of many a woodshop. Maybe you could work a shipping deal with some of the online tool sellers. Maybe they would let you provide your own shipping. Just a thought.
In my experience, Amazon is a source of great prices and good reviews. I also search for feedback on tools from this forum, woodweb.com, and Google in general.
You might also try the "Buy
You might also try the "Buy Online" button on the saw model's page on the Delta site. There are usually several dealers, with some variation in price.
I'm going to second James on this - as much as I like a Delta TS - I like to keep all my body parts together with as few scars as possbile. Alway opt for the machine with a riving knife. I use a table top Bosch which has a riving knife - I got this instead of a contractors saw for the purpose of reliabiliity and money while I save for a cabinet saw.
I will have to dis-agree with "always opt for the machine with a riving knife". That means you may miss a great deal on a machine with more substantial quality of build if you do so. There are many used used machines for sale (PM 66.. Uni-saw.. Grizzly 1023..etc.) that do not have riving knifes but do have spliiters. Does that render them worthless in the hands of a capable person since the arrival of the riving knife on the American scene? I don't think so....
I have a 5 HP cabinet saw that I would not trade even for any machine currently on the market with a riving knife with the exception of a PM 66 with splitter or a Sawstop Industrial with riving knife and not the cheaper Sawstop. And that statement is not based on the Sawstop having a brake. The Sawstop Industrial and older PM 66 is the only machine that has as robust of design build and as tight of tolerances as the machine I have. I personally would not trade build quality over-all for one item on the saw that is a better design vs the spliiter.
So... I would say.. always opt for the most quality built machine you can get for the lowest amount of money. Then once you have it.. "opt" to become alert and always "opt" to practice the proper safety procedures with a TS with no exceptions. Just my opinion of course!
..
As where I agree with everything you have said here and point out to myself that the TS I want is a PM 66 - I think that pointing out the part where you say "in the hands of a capable person" - this is where you are the most right and I need to stand by my advice to a new woodworker to always opt for the riving knife in a saw.
My advice was person specific. To you, whom I would not presume to give advice but ask for it, I would not make the same reccomendation.
And I will agree that if given two machines.. one with riving knife and one with splitter and both the same quality... I would also opt for the one with riving knife. The riving knife has the advantage over the splitter in the fact it remains the same distance from the blade regardless of how the blade is adjusted in height and also when the blade is tilted.
What amazes me is how many people now think that by having a riving knife.. it deems their saw suddenly safe to operate. I know two people who sold their TS to get one with a riving knife. As soon as they got it they removed the plastic shield which will do much more to reduce you losing a finger than a riving knife could ever do. Go figure!
A shield cannot always be used as in a thin rip or non-throught cut but... too much trouble (under 45 seconds if you have replaced the stanadard stock bolt with quick releases) with a splitter and you can't see well with shield is the excuse. So.. they get a TW with riving knife.. remove the shield and continue to move their hands much too close to the exposed blade (nver been hurt doing this before) without the use of a push stick. Brilliant!
BTW.. I wasn't personally jumping your case about the riving knife.. just using it to point out a few things I have observed physicallly and on forums that leave me wondering if people realize just how important the operator and their attitude toward safety really are in lieu of a component fix on the saw itself. Even a saw brake won't stop a kick-back which may not necessarily amputate but can injure.
Ask the guy (if you could) in the article about TS injuries who got hit in the chin with a 2 x 4. It broke his neck. A saw brake.. riving knife.. splitter.. plastic shield could not have stopped that incident from happening as it is rather common to get throw-back. But.. the first safety rule I was taught in a wood-shop in 1964 would have eliminated injury. KEEP the LANE CLEAR... never enter the line of fire while the blade is still spinning. NEVER!
Sorry... Jhon.. once I get on a roll about safety... I have a hard time de-cellerating. Perhaps a brake or I suppose... just shut up is the answer! ha.. ha...
Regards and again.. not on your case... just safety in general!
Very well put. I think if more people would give similar thought on safety there would be more fingers in this world.
Thanks everyone for the reply's, the safety issue is well taken. After further consideration it does appear the Grizzly model would be my better choice. I would love to have one of the cabinet models but I want to make sure I will use what I get enough to warrent it first.
I am in Western Illinois so a trip to Springfield Mo. might be in the future, just to see the place (Grizzly) as it looks huge by there pictures. Thanks again, I can use all the tips ya got.
Lee
You will enjoy the showroom Lee. Grizzly doesn't come to any of the WW'ing shows with the exception of the International WW Show in Atlanta and the Las Vegas Show. I happened to demo tools for a manufacturer at IWF in 2007 where I got to crawl over the entire line then and back in 2005 also. You will throughly enjoy seeing the entre line-up as it is huge.
Good luck and enjoy whatever you get....
Where are you located?
Sorry for taking so long on the reply, busy with work. I'm in Moline, Illinois, West side on the Mississippi River. I just made my choice today I bought the Grizzly G0661 Contractors saw. Of course it's back ordered, they say about April 8 oh well I can wait.
Spend the extra money and get a SawStop.
http://www.kmstools.com/manufacturers/sawstop-221/
It's a few bucks more than a Grizzly but how much does a new hand cost?
Watch the vid... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hgoOJccirg&feature=player_embedded
New Tools
Frequently the contrarian, I will add another suggestion.
My preference, if at all possible, is to purchase from a local woodworking tool supplier. I may spend a LITTLE bit more, but the fact that I can walk in there with a problem and have it repaired immediately, and generally at no cost, is worth the little extra to me.
Frosty
Buying tools
Can't stress Craigs list enough. Just the other day there was and all nearly new. A DeWalt 746 table saw and rollerbase with Freud dado blade included for, brace yourself. $75.00. A DeWalt 12" compound sliding miter saw $75.00.
The Guy was moving and wanted them gone NOW. The posting was gone the next day.
Craigs list
A friend just sold a Jet 16/42 EVS on craigs list for $1200 which was basically new, List is about $1900. The buyer has a five hour drive to pick it up. I would drive ten hours round trip to save $700.
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