Replies

1. 
   BArnold | Nov 05, 2004 02:28pm | #1

   Hey Crafty,

   A couple of people recommended Timberwolf blades to me a few weeks ago.  I got a 1", 3/4", and a couple of 1/4" blades from Suffolk.  If you do any re-sawing, get the 3/4", 3AS-S blade; it was recommended to me so I got one and it's great.  Give Suffolk a call, tell them the types of work you do and they'll help you choose the blades.  They also have a 'buy 4 for the price of 3' special right now, so go for it.

   http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/default.asp

   Regards,

   Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting

   Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.

   ---

2. 
   WorkshopJon | Nov 05, 2004 06:11pm | #2

   Am also changing the standard guides to roller guides in an effort to improve performance. "

   CC,

   Standard (solid) guides give better performance when properly maintained and adjusted compared to roller guides.

   The advantage of roller guides is that they require less regular maintaince, in exchange for accuracy and cost.  Something worthwhile in a production environment, but hardly an issue to a DIY HO.

   As for the blade, for wood ??? any high quality skip tooth (~6TPI),  or bi-metal for metal.

   WSJ

3. 
   jptenberg | Nov 10, 2004 07:03pm | #3

   Although they are super spendy, you might want to consider a carbide tipped blade.  I put one on my 18" Jet about 2 yrs ago, and have been ripping and slicing smoothly ever since.  The price runs about $1/inch, so you're probably looking at $100 ot so for your saw.

   Lennox is the brand that I bought.  I got it from a company called Iturra--I think they are in Florida.

   Good luck

   Peter

   jpswoodworking.com

1. 
   Jtcarm | Nov 12, 2004 10:32pm | #4

   I highly recommend reading Michael Fortune's article on Bandsaws in the current FWW.  Per his recommendation, I just bought 2 of the Starrett 1/2" 3-TPI blades from BCSaw for my 14" Ridgid.  They're great, and not too pricey.  Fortune says one of the biggest problems he sees with BSes are people using too fine a blade and it doesn't clear the sawdust out of the kerf quickly enough.  I was getting very frustrated with my saw trying to use a 3/4" Delta blade, primarly because the guide block holder doesn't extend far enough to support the blade, but this makes all the difference, the weld is smooth and the blades well-balanced.

   FYI - 1/2" is generally considered the largest width feasible for a 14" BS.

4. 
   radrays | Dec 02, 2004 06:18am | #5

   Got a couple of timberwolf blades at the Denver Woodworking Show from a company called PS Wood.  They are really great compared to the blade that came on my Jet 14".  Called the Suffolk Machine Co. and got 4 more for the price of 3.  I have also read that the Wood Slicer from Highland Hardware is very good for resawing, however, they are about $35 ea. compared to $16 for timberwolf.

1. 
   highfigh | Jan 25, 2005 09:13pm | #6

   Do the Timberslicer blades for resawing have a thin kerf? I keep hearing about how smooth the cut is, but if someone could post some photos of the resawn wood, I would appreciate it. Just trying to see how smooth "smooth" is.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

   Edited 1/25/2005 9:50 pm ET by highfigh

1. 
   Dan | Apr 02, 2005 02:25am | #7

   Aloha,

   In my humble estimation, the woodslicer from highland hardware is the finest bandsaw blade for resawing I have ever used.  As an example, I recently used one on my 14" Rockwell (I'm an oldtimer) saw to slice koa veneer for a table top.  I was able to get 8 pieces out of a 4/4 board 6 inches wide.  As to your question about the smoothness, if I knew how to attach a picture I would do it.  Suffice it to say that the cut was smooth enough to glue to the substrate without any further machining.  There are other things that will affect the quality of the cut other than the blade itself.  It is necessary to have a well tuned setup also.  Proper setting of guide blocks, thrust bearings and blade tension are also important.

   Hope this helps.

1. 
   highfigh | Apr 02, 2005 02:41am | #8

   I probably should have asked about the set of that particular blade. I suspect that it doesn't have much set. I have a 1/2" which isn't specifically made for smooth resawing, but I have cut white oak to less than 1/16" without a special fence(meaning higher than the 2.5"-3" one that came with my BS). It definitely would save some wood if it's extremely smooth, though.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

1. 
   Dan | Apr 02, 2005 03:06am | #9

   Aloha,

   You're right, the woodslicer doesn't have much set.  I think that one of the features that it does have, the 3 TPI / 4 TPI alternating configuration helps make it ideal for resawing.  I am not sure but I think it only comes in 1/2" width.  I had always thought wider was better and so used a 3/4" 3 TPI carbide tooth for years, talk about wasting wood!   If you've ever worked with Koa you'll know that it is difficult to impossible to plane but likes sanding.  I don't care much for sanding so a smooth cut makes me very happy.  Not to mention that Koa goes for anywhere from $15 to $40 per BF here in the islands.

   Got turned on to the woodslicer from an article in FWW and have been very safisfied.