I am in the market for a benchtop drill press. Can I get some recommendations? Are there good older USA presses that I might want to look for used instead of a new one?
Thanks,
bit
I am in the market for a benchtop drill press. Can I get some recommendations? Are there good older USA presses that I might want to look for used instead of a new one?
Thanks,
bit
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Replies
You might say what you want to do.
I have a little 8" 4 speed delta I use to do all of my funiture work. (tables and large chests) I suppose most people want something larger.
I have a little 8" 4 speed delta I use to do all of my funiture work. (tables and large chests) I suppose most people want something larger.
I picked up one of these a couple of years ago to do something quick 'n easy, with the idea that I'd replace it with something "more serious" when I had the funds and space. But it pretty much does everything I need a drill press to do; i.e., drill straight holes in wood.
Harbor Freight has one for 79.99 that I bought for 39.99; great price but it is not accurate. I saw a Delta ( I think a 12 or 16') table press that really looked solid for about $220 at Woodcraft. If I had it to do over ( and I may) I would go for that one.
Got this one about a month ago, it's a powerful drill press and it's an oscillating spindle sander complete with dust collection. Great machine!
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?ItemNumber=H0626
Bit, If you can, pickup a used Buffalo Forge drillpress. I picked one up back in the 60's
Used it constantly up 'till 98
Sold it for $125.oo when I moved. A verital 'workhorse'.
Made in the USA.
Whenever you buy used tools, first check for 'play' in the spindle. Grab the chuck and 'wring' it sidewise.
If you feel any 'lost motion', move on. If the table has many extra holes, (not the big one in the center) the last owner was a butcher and it's probably never been lubricated and a %^$&ich to raise and lower the table and spindle.
It should have a workable chuck ,a angle positioning table and matched cone pulleys in the head.
The column should be clean and not rusted. The imports and especially those that are variable speed are gonna let you down.
Get one with a real motor and cone pulleys. If you are really lucky,you'll find one with 'rack and pinion' table adjustment as well. Stein. ( 40 more years left in that sucker!)
Thanks for all the tips. I would love to find a good used press like a Buffalo. Almost got hooked into a foreign press on eBay with the Buffalo name but not a true Buffalo Forge DP.
bit
I have a 10 inch craftman, and I changed the tubing to get it 10 inch longer, so I could use my mortising attachment. Serves me well....
Bob in Sherbrooke, Province of Québec
has anyone looked at the new Delta 12 inch Variable speed press?
I've been looking around lately and it seems like that'd be a nice feature to have and I don't think i have room in my shop or a need for a full size floor model.
JD
I've got that one and that's the one I was going to recommend to him. It is "shift on the fly" variable speed, not stop and reposition belts and pulleys. It is sweet. I built a base for it with drawers so the "footprint" is same size (or bigger) as a floor model.
I think everything should be variable speed. The motor belongs to me, it's working for me on my dime, give me electronic control over it. So far my drill press, router and scroll saw are variable speed but I see occasions where it would benefit table saw operations to be variable speed, and then most particularly, the 14 inch bandsaw and belt/disk sander could benefit from the ability to vary speed.
My 2 cents worth. Everyone have a safe, productive Father's Day weekend.
Ed
Stein
why did you say that variable speed would let you down?
S
Stan,I have two freinds who bought variable speed imports that were underpowered at most speeds, overheated when drilling metal and only worked when drilling small holes in wood/
Couldn't bore holes with a holesaw larger than1" and when one motor finally burnt out, a replacement motor cost too much, so he S%$#-canned it.
Will all those electronic wonders last 40 or more years. Will they, (if treated right,) increase in value? Will they perform well using a planer attachment? Can you bolt on any american made split phase motor?
Stein
I need my woodworking machines to increase in value over 40 years? That looks like an investment rather than a hobby. I should immediately blow a wad of cash on that Rojek tablesaw I looked at last month. Yippppeeee! "Honey this is an investment, ya see,..."
Nahhh - I don't think so.
My variable speed Delta benchtop 12 inch drill press works for me as a woodworking hobbiest, non-metalworking dude. It has brought several of my old plug cutters back to life by being able to slow them way down. And it does holesaw work as well as my handheld drills, which have similar power, only you can control the cutting speed better. The table has rack and pinion adjustment and it has a built-in light. Only thing they left out was a cup holder. Oh, and the three jigs I built for my previous drill press fit the table!
Just throwing out an alternate opinion,...for professionals making a living at woodworking, you'd probably want something else, for some of the reasons that you mentioned,...And for people who have to buy something old and heavy, I've been to a bunch of estate sales where the widow is selling hubby's old machines for pennies on the dollar. (Not much of an investment). You can always buy and fix that stuff up (start with grounding and double insulation), but I'm confining my "rust lust" to really old hand tools.
Ed
Edited 6/13/2003 8:25:40 PM ET by Ed from Mississippi
Ed, What a coincidence, My neme is Ed and my Son's an Ed too.
Ive brought many many old hand tools back to life too. Just finished de- rusting ,adjusting,sharpening and buffing a block plane with dates around 87 and 88
It's about 7/8"longer than my Stanley 9-1/4. The iron says L. Bailey's Patent, but the throat adjusting lever says Stanley.
Also, the iron's adjustment lever says Stanley. Your Drill press sounds like it'l do the job. You made jigs? too? That Buffalo was a gem and I miss it bad.
I recently made a sturdy router table (Oak) and turned Some Gavels on it using a jig I made.I also in layed a metal plate into the top and drilled and tapped a spiral of holes in it where I can place copper pins. I use it to rout out discs and circular openings very accurately. Even made some rabbeted inserts to fit that table. (Zero clearance circular inserts)
Had to sell most of my power tools when I moved to a condo here in Connecticut, Buit I still do a lot of hand work at my combination computer/work bench/and desk.
If i have to do any heavy work I drop in at My son's machine shop to use his drillpress. power hack saw band saw and lathes. If Ireally need something intricate made He ,(Ed Jr.) has c n c milling machines and power presses too. Well, Ed good luck you picked a satisfying hobby.
Ed from CT.
Edited 6/13/2003 11:44:00 PM ET by steinmetz
Greetings Sir,
I share your interests in router tables and restoring old handtools.
I don't want to change the subject of this thread but it seems to me that after all the trekking to estate sales, flea markets, antique stores, garage sales, etc. in search of hidden tool gems the best ones wind up being the ones that are just given to you. My neighbor gave me a Stanley sweetheart No. 4 with the "cheetos orange" frog that has turned into one of my best smoothers (with a Hock blade). I always keep it on the workbench. He just came across the yard one day with "Here, I heard you collected stuff like this. This belonged to my great uncle who died in 1941 so I know it's pretty old." I tried to pay him, then convince him that it would be worth money on ebay but he insisted that I just take it. I've got other good tools like that as well, just given to me by people cleaning out attics or garages or old barns. Have a good day. Ed
Ed, Just got back from a 'flea'. Picked up an old wooden '. 'hobel' today (5$) (Hobel, in german means smoother)
I had one for years, but someone swiped it.I bought it in Germany while in the service (1950)
Used it for years hanging doors and such. While pulling a cart full of tools to my parked van, it must have fallen off the cart.
When I realized it was gone, I raced back around the corner and it was history. Oh, I forgot, this was in New york City where you'd better watch your eye teeth as well as your back.
This wood block plane, is of the old school, when they used wedges to hold the iron and chip breaker in place. Also the 'Iron' is .tapered (Thicker at the bottom and thinner at the top.
When you tap in the wedge, it really wedges together and won't shift like a flat blade.Since the blade is thicker at the cutting edge, the bevel is quite wide compared to the flat type irons.
(It prevents the blade from chattering)
Only thing wrong, was the jerk who owned it was in the habit of striking the metal blade's top to 'adjust' the iron.
The top is now 'mushroomed', but I'll file it smooth when I polish and hone the blade. Don't you hate it when you find a fine tool like a Buck chisel thats been struck with a sledge after the 'butcher lost or broke off the handle?
If anyone reading this post would like to know how to adjust this kind of a plane, Here's the scoop:
After inserting the sharpened iron, lightly tap the wood wedge,(With a mallet not a hammer) to just seat it,'then, strike the front of the plane with the mallet to 'shock' the wedge 'home.
To loosen the wedge, don't hit the wedge, but strike the rear of the plane like you did the front.
TA DA! it's loose and nothing's banged up.
Some of these old planes had 'buttons' in the front to strike. Some had them fore and aft. Ed.
Edited 6/14/2003 5:47:12 PM ET by steinmetz
That's all good to know, maybe i dont' need to drop 400 bucks on a new Delta 16 1/2 incher :) I'm only a hobbiest, albiet a serious one, but if the 12 inch Delta does what i need it to do from a woodworking standpoint for 95% of the things i do that 200 dollar price tag doesn't look bad at all. Plus i'd love to build a stand under it like someone mentioned earlier, would be nice to store all my other drilling equipment, twist bits, forstners, spades, hole saws etc.
JD
Ed -
I have to agree on the variable speed issue with respect to drill presses.
While I don't have one, (my old Craftsman floor model has the paired stepped pulleys) I've always wondered why what with all the advances in tool technology, a variable speed drill press hasn't been more propular. I say that after reading the recent review of drill presses in FWW in which ever press reviewed apparently used stepped pulleys for speed adjustment. I must have missed something if a var. spd. unit was reviewed.
In my new shop I plan on relegating my existing drill press to metal work and 'investing' in a dedicated ww benchtop model for woodworking. Eventually. Glad to hear a variable speed option is available.
...........
Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
Dennis,
I have a very sober suspician that the Delta "Shopsmith" line represents some degree of diminishment from traditional Delta quality. That being said, the 12 inch variable speed benchtop drill press is maybe the flagship of that line. For about $200, it's probably a good deal for the hobbiest. Don't know how it would hold up in a production shop.
I'm happy with mine. The truth is, I probably use it for sanding with a drum sanding attachment as much as for drilling holes. Fiddling around with the variable speed comes in handy for getting the sanding effect that you want. I built a jig that I use for boring out the waste in mortises with a Forstner bit, but my preference in using a brace and Jennings auger bit if I have time. I built a base for the drill press with drawers and for once in my woodworking life, all my twist drills, Forstner bits, spade drills, plug cutters, sanding drums, counterbores, etc., etc. are all located in the same place, rather than all over my shop. That, for me, is worth the price of admission to a benchtop drill press. To each his own,....
Good day, from what is becoming the "Tropical Rainforest South."
Ed
ED
If I were to chose a BT DP at the moment, the Delta is the choice. Solid and a lot of iron. Pretty well made. In most situations a 6" throat clearance from drill point is enough.
You better watch that getting your bits, forstners, etc. all near the point of attack without having to go looking. Next thing you know, you'll figure out that works well with the TS, router table, etc. etc.. Kind of gets contagious. < G >
Keep that poncho handy and I've learned to lay finish between thunder-storms. Since I didn't know we had a monsoon season down south, my question is when does it end? ha..ha..
Have a good fathers day...
sarge..jt
Sarge,
I'm working up to the level of cleanliness, organization, efficiency, and,...errr,...paint,... that I've seen in your shop photos, but it won't happen overnight.
You have a happy Father's Day, too, and enjoy the Braves game on big-time, national TV tonight.
Ed
I would stay away from Crapsman the motors are weak I have one it worked well for about 1 year that's not much use- then the motor started smoking one day now you have to spin the chuck by hand to get it to start.
I would get one with the bigger chuck so you can chuck up bigger than 1/2 in.and Tilt table that cranks up and down.
ok, IM going to be the Fly in the ointment here..<G> How about a nice Harbor Freight 16 speed Bench top drill Press for only $129.99 or there Floor model 16 speed for $149.99 there both 3/4 hp & have 13 7/8" swing..there on sale til July 7th..
ToolDoc
Found an old Powr-Kraft (wards) DP today. Model number 84-2530. I would guess its from the 50s or 60s. Everything works even the old original looking 4 amp motor runs smooth. Relatively rust free, no holes in the table, matched cone pulleys... But the spindle (quill?) has play in the top bushing so I guess I will pass on it even though it is inviting at $30. Not sure about replacing that bushing.
bit
Bit, The bushing is probably a bronze sleeve which can be had thru Mc Masters Carr or Granger.
It's probably a standard size too.Thirty bucks is a steal, offer the guy 25 and he'll bite. Stein
And the Powr-Kraft has the original parts diagram and instructions with it. Think I will give it a shot. I love old machinery (including my '49 Studebaker PU) and this DP will be a hell of a lot easier to restore.
bit
Well it turns out the old Powr-Kraft DP was made by Delta in 1950... and the have parts!
bit
Well I dismantled the old Powr-Kraft DP today. Turns out I can't find the original manufacturer for this press. After several calls to Delta (thought it was their's) with conflicting answers to questions I now believe they did not make it. I did find a Duro label on it so I guess they must have been the OEM. Anyway, all is in relatively good shape considering it is likely more than 50 years old. Only real problem is the top bushing for the quill and a pulley sleeve that slides inside it. The sleeve is worn for sure but the bushing is at worst a bit out of round. Took it to a local machine shop and they will fab a sleeve and true the bushing for $25. Worst case a new bushing is another $4. Bottom line is I will have about $60 in this nice old heavy duty benchtop press.
bit
Here's a link to an Atlas DP that looks very much like mine:
http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=99
Well, other than mine needs paint.
bit
Hi dear,
I recommend you wen 4210 10-Inch Drill press. Good quality for the price ($120).
I was in need of a drill press but didn't want to spend a lot of money after that I bought the drill press. Price is reasonable. This press is even better than I expected. Precise, 5 speeds, smooth, quiet, solidly built. Speed is easy to change. Instructions for assembly and adjustment are clear and easy. The only tool you will need is an open-end or adjustable wrench to bolt the base plate on. This one fit the bill. Seems to be a quality product. I would recommend to anyone.
If you want to know more about the best drill press go to the link Best Drill Press In 2018
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