Replies

1. 
   Midnight | May 31, 2005 01:48am | #1

   Bear with me if I seem confused, but don't you have adjustable depth with your router?? I've never seen one that hasn't, but then, this side of the pond fixed base routers are as common as gold plated hens teeth.

   A straight edge guide should be all you need to control where the cut goes, shop around for the cutter, make the cut in 3 passes (1/8th bites at a time) to avoid overstressing the cutter...

   Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

1. 
   jmo2 | May 31, 2005 06:11am | #2

   Mike,

   I've borrowed the router and this is my first go at using it.  Yep, you're right...this thing has adjustable depth and, although I should have thought this through, I was fixated on picking the right bit I didn't even think about the depth adjustment on the router itself.

   Newbie maneuver :)

   The channel is being cut into the side of a wood window, so I was envisioning one pass at 5/32"...are you suggesting that I should get a slot cutter with a smaller kerf to avoid overstressing the router and make 3 passes?  I can fix an old furnaces, recondition radiators, and install trim but I'll be darned if I can visualize how a router is supposed to work.  I have a huge hole in my brain on this one.

   jmo

1. 
   Midnight | May 31, 2005 04:03pm | #4

   ...are you suggesting that I should get a slot cutter with a smaller kerf to avoid overstressing the router and make 3 passes?

   Not quite... I'd look for that 5/32 cutter, and make the cut in 3 passes, first one with 1/8" of the bit projecting, 2nd with 1/4" and the 3rd with 3/8". There's not a lot of meat on the bones of them small cutters so ya gotta be gentle with em.

   Your router base should have a flat cast into it someplace. With the router unplugged from the mains, the bit installed and set for the first 1/8th deep pass, measure the distance from that flat to the nearest tip of your cutter (you may need to rotate the cutter to get the tip as close to the flat as poss). Plot that offset from where you want the dado edge to be and clamp your straight edge there.

   Do a short trial cut (1/4" or so) to check your alignment... if you're good to go, have at it. Rather than trying to plough end to end in one pass, bring the router in from each endto avoid blow out at the ends of the dado..Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

1. 
   jmo2 | May 31, 2005 05:00pm | #5

   Hey Mike---

   So, this drawing from Fine Woodworking is how I'm imagining this slot being cut.  So, when you mention making the cut...

   first one with 1/8" of the bit projecting

   I'm still having trouble visualizing how to adjust the depth on this kind of cut.  If you take a look at the illustration I've attached, it might help to explain why I'm getting stuck.

   Thanks!

    

    

   
1. 
   Ricks503 | May 31, 2005 06:08pm | #6

   It seems like a confusion in terms.

   The distance from the edge of the wood (top in the picture) to the slot would be depth of the bit as it come out of the base of the router. The depth that the bit would cut into the wood would be controlled using an edge guide to limit how far into the wood the bit would cut.

   Once you have the bit set to cut the slot where you want it on the wood, you use the edge guide to make the cut  1/8" into the wood, then adjust the guide to make the cut 1/4" into the wood and so on until you get the correct depth of the cut.

    

   Does this help?

   1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1

   Edited 5/31/2005 11:15 am ET by Rick

2. 
   Midnight | May 31, 2005 07:57pm | #7

   ahhhhh... pictures are worth a thousand words... for a reason... my mistake. I thought you were talking about using a straight cutter...

   that being the case I believe Freud part # 63-60925 (5/32 x 2"dia biscuit slot cutter) matched with its C2 bearing (30.00mm / 1 3/16") should give the result you're looking for. Adjust the cutter depth to place the slot where you want it set into the edge of your board... one pass should do it. Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

3. 
   BG | May 31, 2005 11:36pm | #8

   JMO,
   I think Mike was picturing you'd stand the window on end, perhaps clamp a piece of wood to the frame and run a straight router bit down the edge using a fense...just another way.. 

4. 
   jmo2 | Jun 01, 2005 12:07am | #9

   I think Mike was picturing you'd stand the window on end,

   I actually did consider this at first (about 2 weeks ago when I was trying to figure this out) and discarded the idea because the window is so narrow, and I am so new to this, that I was sure I would botch it.

   So I definitely appreciate Mike's first idea...and am forever greatful for the very specific advice on the bit and the bearing.

   Edited 5/31/2005 5:22 pm ET by jmo

5. 
   Midnight | Jun 01, 2005 10:40pm | #10

   So I definitely appreciate Mike's first idea...and am forever greatful for the very specific advice on the bit and the bearing.

   jmo... no worries... I was a rookie myself not so long ago. If there's anything else we can do to help, just ask y'hear..?? The only dumb questions are the ones ya keep t' yersel...  ;)Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

2. 
   RickL | May 31, 2005 03:03pm | #3

   Amana makes a  5/32" wing cutter and "vari-depth" bearings to do this  (3/8" is available).   Also Conservation Resource Conservation Technology, advertises in Fine Home building, has some great insulation stuff and a unique router set up. Pricey but just tossing out ideas.   Your post has more to do with FHB and I'm sure it's been covered more indepth there.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/31/2005 9:42 am ET by rick3ddd

3. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 02, 2005 09:34pm | #11

     Can anyone recommend a specific brand/source for a slot cutter bit that would do the trick?

   Sort of lost here.. But if ya got the wood.. Use a smaller bit and do it in two or more passes to get the correct size??