Replies

1. 
   jptenberg | Sep 21, 2005 12:25am | #1

   I recommend looking at cabinetparts.com.

   I think that an inset hinge may do the trick for you, but you will have to adjust the mounting of the baseplate closer to the front of the cabinet.  The only thing to worry about is the lip on the hinge side hitting the cabinet when you open the door.

   Definately spend a little more $ and go with the clip hinges and plates--it's a real timesaver.  As for the spacer block, I don't think it would do you any good.

   Good luck.

   Peter

   jpswoodworking.com

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/20/2005 5:27 pm ET by jptenberg

2. 
   FreeGee | Sep 21, 2005 12:28am | #2

   Hi,

   I like your doors but I am afraid that you have created a problem with the hinges.
   The Euro hinges come in three variants: for inset doors, for half overlay doors, for full overlay doors (always based on 3/4". Your doors are a combination of inset and half overlay. The hinges for inset doors will not work because your trim will not clear the cabinet. Hinges for half overlay doors are designed for flat panel doors. With your doors this is not the case and the pivot mechanism can not work because of the trim. The easiest way out would be to modify the trim and make the doors normal overlay doors.

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Sep 21, 2005 02:05am | #3

   Blum does say their hinges can do an overlay door.   I'm not sure whether they open all the way ; that depends on the dimensions of the door.   Here's a drawing from Blum's catalog:

    

   http://www.wwhardware.com/media/products/apcharts/blum170special.pdf

3. 
   DonStephan | Sep 21, 2005 03:03am | #4

   My suggestion would be to buy one or two of the various combinations of cup and base you think might work, made a mockup of your cabinet and door, and try everything on the mockup to find what will work.

   I've always used Salice because that is what my supplier carries, so I can't address your preferred manufacturer. I'd even have to experiment to see if anything in the Salice line would work.

   You might add a couple dimensions, label the door and cabinet side, and email your drawing to manufacturer web sites to solicit their input. Distributors often don't know enough technical details to answer your question.

   Good luck.

4. 
   Jameslmiller | Sep 21, 2005 05:00am | #5

   Try a mock up with 165 degree hinge they push the door out as it opens, you might get lucky, a regular 110, 120 or cup hinge will not work!! Don't even waste your time trying.  James

5. 
   Jameslmiller | Sep 21, 2005 05:14am | #6

   Sorry, I was wrong salice makes a 40mm hinge that should work, it can bore 1/2" from edge and it is for thick doors, it should work. James

6. 
   ted | Sep 21, 2005 05:16am | #7

   Looks like you have a bit of a peculiar application there. Although I can't say for sure what will and won't work I'm pretty sure a 95 or 110 degree hinge won't do the trick. You may want to try something like a 165 degree but bear in mind they are BIG hinges. And in an inset application they stick out into the cabinet alot and look pretty unattractive, at least in my opinion. I think a nice set of butts would probably be your best solution.

7. 
   ring | Sep 21, 2005 07:04am | #8

   Zbalk,

   There is probably a way with Blum hinges, but you will have to mock up to be sure.  Have a look at my post regarding regular 3/8" rabbet installation : http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=22587.16

   Because you added unusual thickness to the face it may not clear, but judging from the photos, "open" and "midway" it has a fighting chance.

   I gave exact info on Blum catalog numbers and set up drilling.

   Good luck,

   DR

1. 
   zbalk | Sep 21, 2005 03:22pm | #9

   Thanks everyone for the ideas, suggestions and info.  I believe, Ring, that I will try your set-up; thanks for the specific detail.

   If I use Euro cups again, think I'll pick my hinges before I build the cabinets and doors.  This whole problem arises because it was my original intention to use semi-concealed hinges, but the doors came out nicer looking than I thought, and I didn't want to clutter the fronts with visible hardware. 

   Thanks again.            Zbalk

8. 
   BigHar | Sep 22, 2005 03:23am | #10

   Check this site out.  It has what you are looking for.

   http://www.dlawlesshardware.com/

   BigHar