SWLM has suggested that Santa will bring me the Veritas plane that I want for Christmas, but I have to say which one.
I’ve pretty much talked myself into a No. 4, bevel-up plane so’s I can easily change the angle of attack by simply swapping out one of 3 blades, from 38 degrees to over 60 degrees.
Annd, I’m agonizing over whether to get the bevel-up smooth plane of more-or-less traditional design, and a 2″ blade which I can quickly sharpen with my work sharp, but which only weighs 3 pounds,
Orrrr, get the new 2 1/4 inch bevel up plane of the newer design that weighs in at 5 pounds, but who’s iron I’ll have to sharpen the old fashioned way – laboriously, with much wonderment about why it takes me so d#$% long to get a sharp edge, manually.
Farther complicated by the fact that – – I’ve never actually held a Veritas plane in my hand – I just love the way they look and are described in the Lee Valley Catalog (I know, I’m a shallow person). So I’m just guessing.
Which FINALLY brings me to my question…..
Does anyone of you actually use Veritas hand planes, and knows whether the newer design will be worth the effort to finally learn to sharpen a plane iron by hand, unaided by the nefarious work-sharp?
And while you are at it – what’s the meaning of life?
(Geez, is it really 1:00 in the morning?)
Mike D
Replies
And while you are at it - what's the meaning of life?
None of us has a life - that's why we visit this forum! :)
Does anyone of you actually use Veritas hand planes
Nah - everyone here uses Marcous, which are a cheaper version of the Veritas. Still, you can read about the Veritas' here:
http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/dCohen/index.asp
whether the newer design will be worth the effort to finally learn to sharpen a plane iron by hand, unaided by the nefarious work-sharp?
I sharpen all my bevel down planes freehand on hollow ground bevels, but all bevel up planes, with the exception of a 25 degree bevel, are aided by a honing guide (I use the Veritas Mk 2) since the cutting angle is determined by a microbevel of a specific angle. The Worksharp's highest bevel angle is 35 degrees. You can use this in a BU plane, but then you will miss out on the great strength of these planes - being able to plane at high angles of attack (such as 60 degrees and greater).
Regards from Perth
Derek
What an absolute jewel of a website!
You answered my question EXACTLY (and I'm not convinced that TMOL isn't in there, somewhere, as well).
Apparently I must do more of my tool ruminating on the keyboard late at night.
Thanks
Mike D :)
Mike it is 3:40 am and I was drawn to this forum to answer your question - actually the cat wanted out and ...
I have several Lie-Nielsen and Lee Valley planes plus some infills. I enjoy all of the planes but clearly some seem better for certain jobs than others!
I do not have the 2" LV smoother your are referring to BUT I do have the 2 1/4" heavy BU smoother. It is beefy, accurate and the interchangeable blades works well for those tricky woods my other planes seem to have issues with.
Like Derek, I also use a LV MK2 jig to sharpen the blades - first on a TREND diamond fine stone and then onto an 8000 Norton waterstone for that nice edge. Scary sharp works if I am out somewhere and don't have access to my LV jig, but when I get back to the shop I use the jig to touch up angles that I might have tampered with.
The ability of the LV system to buy the 3 planes (Smoother, Jack and Jointer) and interchange the blades makes good sense from both a financial point of view and a versatility perspective. The planes are well made, and like any tool once you get used to them - they will do what you want them to do - become an extension of your hand and brain working in unison! Need a coffee..
Bob in Calgary
I don't think you can go wrong with either one. I had to make the same decision not too long ago, and I decided to go with the bigger one, specifically because of its increased weight and width. (However, that may be because I, too, am in possession of increased weight and width.) The plane is superb. About the only downside is that since the sides aren't milled flat, you can't use it with a shooting board.
I use the Veritas Mk II honing jig, an extra-large DMT diamond stone for coarse grinding, and scary-sharp for fine honing. All are easily capable of handling the wide blade.
-Steve
Steve,
About the only downside is that since the sides aren't milled flat, you can't use it with a shooting board.
Really!? That was one of the main reasons I wanted the BU Jack, for a shooting board. I did not know that the sidea aren't square.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 12/4/2007 10:08 am ET by KiddervilleAcres
"That was one of the main reasons I wanted the BU Jack, for a shooting board. I did not know that the sidea aren't square."
Apples and oranges. The ones that are called "bevel-up" in their names (the smoother and the jointer) don't have milled sides. The ones that are called "low-angle" in their names (the other smoother and the jack) do have milled sides. It's easy to tell by looking at the photos.
-Steve
Yea!, Yea!, Yea! - Huzzah! even.
I nearly deleted my question as babbling and only hoped for an answer.
What great answers.
And, I have now made my choice - I've explained to SWLM that I really, really, really need both. :)
Actually, I'm going to get the larger, BU. I'm into a project right now where it's going to really help. But I can see where this is leading. I came up from the shop last night with a length of curly maple that I'd finally successfully smoothed with my old Stanley. I was ecstatic. "Look, look!" I cried, "See how sweet this surface is. Look at the clarity of the grain. I did this." "Uh, huuuh!" said SWLM. "That's really nice, sweetheart, but isn't it getting pretty late?" "Ah, yes" I responded, "but with the right plane, I'd have been through with this hours earlier."
Of course I would have......
Mike D (happily making shavings in Louisville. )
MikeI have the Veritas Bevel Up Smooth Plane--the big mama, and I love using it. With a sharp blade, it makes tearout history--especially if you buy the 50 degree bevel blade to go with the stock 38 degree bevel. With a 62 degree cutting angle, you will keep yourself warm using it, and get a glass smooth surface ready to finish. Have fun. Tom"Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"
Mike
The LV BUS is indeed one of the great bargains in the area of smoothers. It has superlative performance.
Just a reminder of my recommendation in regard to high angle blades for this plane (and other BU planes) - get the 25 degree bevelled blades only (or regrind yours to 25 degrees) and then add a high microbevel to that. You will find it much, much easier to then camber the blade for smoothing. Try doing that on a 50 degree bevel! Too much steel to remove.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Well, Santa is going to be very good to me this year. In addition to the 38 degree blade that comes with BUS, I'm getting the 25 degree and the 50 degree blades.
At present, I know ...-how to sharpen a bevel down blade straight across (with the corners rounded slightly to avoid ridges)- how to apply a 20 degree microbevel to the bevel down blade to allow it to cut curly maple successfully
I suspect that there's a LOT that I don't know.
I almost hesitate to ask this, but is there a good reference for what I need to know about sharpening plane irons without falling off the deep end? :)
Mike D
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Sharpening-Leonard-Lee/dp/1561581259
Regards from Perth
Derek
Pressed "Two Day One Click - Free Shipping". Should have it by Friday.
Thanks.
Mike D
P.S. Must be a standard reference, as Reg Nickerson at Lee Valley referred to it, also, when answering a question about their planes.
Mike
Edited 12/5/2007 10:29 am ET by Mike_D
Derek,I have enjoyed reading your contributions about bevel up planes and sharpening. I just received the bevel up smoother and the out of box quality was outstanding. I haven't had time yet to put a camber on the blade, but it was capable of .001" shavings without any additional sharpening on my part. I bought the 25 and 38 degree blades. I gather you are using the 25 degree blade with a microbevel that produces a near 38 degree angle when you are cambering the cutting edge?Thanks for the tips.Tom Abbott
Hi Tom
Congrats on the new plane.
Yes, I now only work from a 25 degree bevel. With whatever degree microbevel you add to this, it will be easier to camber as there is less metal to remove than if you were working from a high angle primary bevel.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Santa delivered my new LV BUS (Bevel Up Smoother) as promised.
Finally got a chance this evening to burnish the back of the 38 degree iron and put a microbevel on the bevel, per instructions.
Curly Maple, where are you! Ahhhhhhhhh! Smoooooth, easy, paper thin shavings - zero tearout.
And I haven't even tuned up the 55 degree iron, yet. What a great plane.
Happy Holidays to all of you, and thanks for all the great advice.
Mike D
Now that I have a quality handplane, I discover that I really like using it. First, it works (Veritas Bevel Up Smoother). Second, it leaves the surface of curly maple looking wonderful. Third, it makes shavings instead of sawdust (I like sawdust, I just like shavings better). Forth, it's quiet. Fifth, my back and arms feel great after an afternoon of using it.
Sixth, now I really really really need a new LV Veritas Bevel Up Jointer - and the low angle jack plane, and.....and....and...
I suspect that by next Christmas I'm going to be really versatile with my BUS, as this year's Christmas budget is spent.
Mike D
Mike,
If you're going to start working with hand tools, then it doesn't really matter which one you get first. You see, you're going to find out very quickly that, if you enjoy the handwork, then each of the planes is designed to perform a certain task. After you get serious about it, you'll discover that, depending on the project, that you will frequently use between 10 and 20 planes, including block, rabbet, edge, spokeshave, smoother, fore, and jointer planes being just a few. There's no rule that says you need to get them all at once.
I suspect that the plane I use the most, every single day, is the block plane. After that, smoothers, and so on and so forth.....
I'll give you the same recommendation that I give to all my students. At least once, get yourself an older version of a Stanley plane, and go through the process of cleaning it, and tuning it up. There are many great books on the subject, like Garrett Hack's "The Handplane Book" (Taunton Press). By going through this process, you will be able to experience the "before" and "after" of a handplane, and see for yourself how important it is to have a plane tuned properly, right down to the mating surface of the bed and frog. As you tune up the plane and use it, you will be able to experience firsthand the improvements made by using it. This knowledge will stay with you forever.
Good luck, and happy woodworking.
Jeff
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