Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | Sep 20, 2011 01:07pm | #1

   easy choice

   I would definitely go with the Delta, and then change or sharpen the blade.

2. 
   BruceS | Sep 20, 2011 01:53pm | #2

   Delta !!

   No question in my mind!  Delta.

   Your Craftsman is on the Emerson recall list for a blade guard upgrade.   Not that it effects the saws functionallity .

   But a Craftsman is not in the same class as a Delta.

   But I prefer my DeWalt GP over either of the above..

1. 
   todpod | Sep 20, 2011 10:52pm | #3

   more info....

   Thanks for the advice Bruce....  but I found out something new.  It seems that the problem with the delta is that there is excessive runout on the motor shaft  (its bent).  I'm not sure if there is anything that I can do about it without replacing the motor.... hmmm.  There is a roll pin on the shaft ....I'm not sure if it can be replaced.... 

   Do you have any experience with this.  It seems unlikely that the shaft would get bent....

   Todd

1. 
   BruceS | Sep 21, 2011 12:59am | #4

   Sears HP rating system is all  Smoke and mirrors (literally)    Their peak HP rating is when it is literally smoking, not true HP.

   Not familiar with the Delta motor shaft,  seems unlikely a shaft could get bent.  Unless it has a stupid  stubbed on end like the craftsman has.

   You might, no will, get a good answer to that question over at    http://www.OWWM.org        There are many Delta Fans there..

   I know I won't bend the One inch shaft on my DeWalt ;'-)  Gool luck.

3. 
   oldwindowguy | Sep 22, 2011 01:10pm | #5

   I had a 10" Craftsman radial

   I had a 10" Craftsman radial arm saw from about 1976 until 1984 when I picked up a 12" Delta.  I prefer the turret arm support on the Delta saw since the line of cut swings less side to side for miter cuts.  The saw has held up well over the years.  The only problem I had was the nut for the elevating mechanism buried in the column.  This was aluminum, and I striped it out twice before I turned a steel replacement which has held up.  The larger, heavier saws have a bronze nut.

   I can't say the shaft in your saw isn't bent, but it is far more common for a shaft or arbor to appear bent when in fact it is precessing as it turns due to a bearing not being squarely seated.  A tiny nick or burr on the shoulder of either the shaft or bearing housing will cock the bearing enough to do this.

1. 
   todpod | Sep 22, 2011 08:21pm | #6

   a bearing?

   ....a bearing issue ....I like that idea  ...especially, since it is fixable.  It is also interesting that the bearing housing seems to be getting hotter than I expected it to.  I like this idea so much, that I believe  I shall start disassembly tonite.  Hmmm, it doesn't fit the problem exactly, though, since the cocked bearing would bend the shaft in on direction and thus would not wobble, but instead would just be non-perpendicular and hard to turn.  But it could be that there is some other issue with the bearing that is causing the wobble.....

1. 
   oldwindowguy | Sep 25, 2011 10:53am | #7

   I'm used to seeing this in tenoners which have to spin large cutters very true or the copes end up oversized.  These are heavy 50mm shafts.  They don't bend, but maintainence guys are somehow convinced they do until you get them to pull the bearings.  A shaft on a worn bearing will wobble--it probably won't end up in the same place each time it comes around.  A shaft and a cocked bearing will fight about where the center of rotation is, and the shaft at that spot will rotate truely around a compromise that is not the center line of the shaft.  Self aligning bearing are made to accomodate this, but they are not precise enough for cutting tool spindles.