Replies

1. 
   GHR | Jan 27, 2004 08:01pm | #1

   I am in favor of buying a blade that works for you.

   When I was using a table saw to rip wood, I used cheap blades and threw them away when they got dull.

   Now I use a table saw to trim wood (cut 1 or 2 blade widths off) and for that I need a sharp blde that does not deflect. The blades get sharpened when dull.

   Both methods produced surfaces good enough for gluing without jointing.

   Different purposes; different blades.

2. 
   forestgirl | Jan 27, 2004 08:20pm | #2

   The ATB is going to give you the better finish.  The FTG blades are going to give you a faster rip, I think, but maybe not as good finish.  I seem to remember a new Freud rip blade has come out recently, but am not finding the ad.  I'll drop Charles-from-Freud an email, and I'm sure he'll post a response.  You are smart to give info on thickness of stock -- lots of people don't take that spec into consideration when choosing a blade.

   Off to find Charles.....

   forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

1. 
   charlesm | Jan 27, 2004 08:31pm | #3

   Thanks for calling me FG!

   The best blade for this application is, indeed, a flat top 24 tooth rip blade. This will handle the stock thickness range easily and leave a smooth edge. As far as coatings are concerned, rip blades benefit more from them than any other blades since the wood can close on the blade easiest in a rip and it reduces the friction substantially. Other benefits are: rust proofing, easier cleanup and smoother running.Charles M

   Freud, Inc.

1. 
   utternovice | Jan 27, 2004 11:14pm | #6

   Thanks for the information.

2. 
   utternovice | Jan 27, 2004 11:13pm | #5

   Thank you for the info and contacting Charles.  Think I'll be ordering the teflon Freud.

3. 
   DJK | Jan 27, 2004 10:32pm | #4

   FS Tool XL 4000 heavy duty rip blade #21250. 10", 5/8" bore, .095 plate, .142 kerf and 24 teeth. Massive carbide tips for a 10" blade and it will not deflect. Have ripped 12/4 white oak and cherry, smooooooth as a baby bottom.

1. 
   Elcoholic | Jan 28, 2004 04:46am | #8

   I have the same blade and it kicks #### on 4/4 to 12/4 QSWO.  Personally I think teflon belongs on frying pans not saw blades.  John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

1. 
   VeniciaL | Jan 28, 2004 09:52am | #9

   I've been using the Freud LM72R008 & LM72R010 flat top grind rip blades. They are everything that's been said about them above.

   Charles, BTW , Freud might want to make it easier for a worker to re-order blades when the time comes. The model number on your blades is printed near the periiphery and gets worn off almost immediately. If it were printed near the arbor hole, it would last indefinitely and be an easy reference for re-ordering.

   VL

1. 
   charlesm | Jan 28, 2004 06:40pm | #10

   Venicia,

   Good point! We now etch the Freud logo and a serial number on each blade near the bore with a laser. I will pass on your excellent suggestion to add the item number as well. Thanks.Charles M

   Freud, Inc.

1. 
   DBishop | Jan 29, 2004 02:19am | #13

   as long as we are giving feedback, Charles I am a real novice and tend to speak before thinking so please point me in the right direction if I am crazy.

   Does Freud have a shim set for thier dado blades that are magnetic with a big arbor hole?  It's a huge pain to get those suckers off, but if the hole was larger it'd be real easy and the magnetic would keep it in place.

   Thanks

2. 
   charlesm | Jan 29, 2004 04:47pm | #17

   Derek,

   Freud does not offer magnetic shims but they are available and IIRC they have oversized bores. Perhaps someone here can direct you to a source.Charles M

   Freud, Inc.

3. 
   RANGERP75R | Jan 29, 2004 06:00am | #14

   Charles

      Until you guys and gals get that model # etched on, I think I will continue to ink it on a piece of masking tape that I slap in the TS manual that is filed under T in my  shop tool folder inside the plastic box.

      I know, I'm a trouble-maker; huh!... ha.. ha.. ha..ha..ha..

   Regards...

   sarge..jtProud member of the :  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

4. 
   wrudiger | Jan 29, 2004 07:25am | #15

   OK, have to throw in my 2 cents to balance out the Freud bandwagon!

   Forrest Woodworker II - ATB with 1/8" kerf.  Hardwood, plywood, MDF, doesn't care and smooth as a baby's behind.  Recommended to me by my cabinet-maker-turned-luthier friend as the one that cuts smoothest and stays sharpest longest.  In his mind the extra cost is offset by fewer trips for sharpening.

5. 
   charlesm | Jan 29, 2004 04:51pm | #18

   wrudiger,

   utternoveice said:

   "Ripping hardwoods from 1" to 2.25" thick is the intended use"

   I believe even Forrest recommends fewer teeth than the WWII for thicker stock.Charles M

   Freud, Inc.

6. 
   wrudiger | Jan 30, 2004 09:08am | #22

   Per Forrest use the 40T blade to "RIP & CROSSCUT 1" to 2" rockhards and softwoods", "Use 30T version if ripping mostly 2" - 3" Thick hardwoods"

    

7. 
   charlesm | Jan 30, 2004 02:16pm | #23

   Thanks for the clarification.Charles M

   Freud, Inc.

8. 
   charlesm | Jan 29, 2004 04:55pm | #19

   Sarge,

   Should we just include a preprinted piece of tape for you to stick in the manual?

   CharlesCharles M

   Freud, Inc.

9. 
   RANGERP75R | Jan 29, 2004 06:23pm | #20

   Charles

      I'm a country boy and that's more than I would expect. I'll take it from there. Life is simple! he.. he...

   :>)

   sarge..jtProud member of the :  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

10. 
    forestgirl | Jan 29, 2004 08:43pm | #21

    ROFL!!!!  Now that's customer service!  Toooooo funny.forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

2. 
   Adrian | Jan 28, 2004 09:10pm | #11

   Also have those blades in 10 and 14"....good blades.cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, N.S

3. 
   DJK | Jan 28, 2004 09:33pm | #12

   I agree on Teflon coated blades. Sent a few back for exchange when the Teflon wore off. I'm sold on FS Tool saw blades. I keep about five or six CMT and Fraud blades for rough cutting and for 2x material then use the FS for finish cuts. I do keep an FS heavy rip blade on a 5hp PM 66 for heavy work.

1. 
   charlesm | Jan 29, 2004 04:45pm | #16

   DJK,

   IME, if you are wearing teflon off blades there's a good chance you have either a lot of warped stock or some seriously misaligned saws. In either case, the coating was doing what it's designed to do. One of the reasons that I sometimes hear from people who don't use coated blades is that the material should never touch the plate of the blade. In a perfect world that would be true but, as you experienced, wood will often contact the plate. Without a coating this will result in excessive heat from friction.Charles M

   Freud, Inc.

4. 
   JMartinsky | Jan 28, 2004 01:29am | #7

   Amen on the teflon Freud blades.

   John