Which rulers are used most often?
trusche2
| Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on
Greetings to all,
There is an interesting article on rules in the current issue of FWW. At present I have a 12″ Starrett combination square, but figure I can always use additional measuring/marking tools in my shop. I’d be interested in knowing which rule you reach for most often in the shop. And is this rule used for all your layout/measuring work involving 12″ or less? Or do you have several depending on the particular application? If you have one of the Incra rules which has slots for a 0.5 mm pencil lead, do you find it simplifies your work or are they cumbersome to use? Finally, those who own or have used the “T-rules” do you find them to have any drawbacks? Thanks in advance for all your inputs and responses?
trusche2
Replies
The rule I like and use the most is a 6" Starrett with graduations on the end. It's great for small measurements drawing lines, setting the bandsaw fence, and the end graduations are perfect for lots of tablesaw and router setups. I keep it in my back pocket pretty much all the time.
I've been using the same one for years. It's been sat on, dropped, thrown in the bucket or bag, sent throught the washing machine, and numerous other abuses without a complaint.
I'd say it was one of the best $12 purchases I've ever made.
The 6 inch rule is my number 2.
My number 1 rule is the 12 inch Veritas hook rule from Lee valley. I like it because it's in 16ths only - very easy on the eyes. Who can read 64ths without a magnifying glass.
I wrote Mr. Lee a few years ago suggesting a rule with only 16ths and this came out awhile later.
Nicholas was used by Raspeutin.
Louis XVI was used by Marie Antoinette.
Hitler was used by Gohering.
Vittorio Emmaneul was used by Mousillini.
Bush was used by . . .- err lets not get into politics
Frank
Edited 9/10/2003 10:17:31 PM ET by BISCARDI
Amazing. You spelled Bush correctly!
Pooch, pooch, pooch, pooch, pooch.
Good to see the pooch posting.
I use either a 150mm rule or a 1000mm rule, rarely a 12"/300mm rule
Cheers,
eddie
Buy em' all, sort em' out later.
If you like it buy it.
That way when you need one it wiil be right there!
I love my Incra wrap-around ruler because it's so precise. Although I'm a novice and can't compare it to other rulers at this point, I don't find it cumbersome.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
F.G/
No one so far has mentioned the shrink rule used by patternmakers.
When molten metal is poured into a mould at the foundry, as it cools,it begins to change in dimension.
This change is called shrinkage and must be allowed for when the original pattern is constructed.
Since each metal has it`s own shrink factor,each requires it`s own rule.The usual allowance for cast iron is 1/8"per foot.I.E.a 24" shrink rule will be 24 1/4"lomg by standard measure.
As a result,a patternmaker will accumulate quite an assortment of rules. Since the advent of the small hand held calculator,I no longer use all these different measuring sticks.Instead,I transpose all the basic diminsions on the engineering drawings to standard dims.I am now able to construct the pattern using standard measuting tools.
Accuracy in the final casting is of prime importance,since a multitude of parts may be made from this original.Therefore my measureing tools of choice include steel rules,vernier calipers,dial indicators,micrometers,and other precision devices usually associated with the machinist trades.
Be sure to work safely.
¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
TRUSHE2
I will second Corners on the Veriats hook-rule. You have a very positive starting point with the hook. That is, if the end of the stock was cut square. ha..ha..
sarge..jt
TRUSCHE2,
Here's my take for what its worth. I like tools, and this very question gave me the excuse I needed to start buying some machinest measuring tools. Not the newer stuff, mostly old Starrett and Brown&Sharp. Its more accurate then one needs, but some of that stuff is like jewelry. Ebay is a great resource.
I guess my most often used rule is a Starrett combo square, they come in a bunch of sizes so they are fun to buy, and because I can move the head and use it like a hook rule/marking gauge. They come as small as 3" up to at least 24". Dial calipers are also great. I guess my answer to your question is, I don't really use a conventional rule very much.
Steve
I too love my Starrett 12" combo square, it all starts and ends there. For most projects, a Starrett 6 foot folding rule is all I need, remember, the Empire State Building was built prior to tape. I'm thinking about getting a hook rule though and wonder what others think of them.
I use my 6" scale, Im lost w/o it
Darkworks: Underground, In the Peoples Republic of California
I use a 6' folding rule for general measurements and either my Starrett 6" and 12" combo square for layout work; probably the 6" most of the time. I also have a center-finder rule and a 40" rule that I use to check my planing as well as occasional measurements. I do have a couple of 25' tapes, but they are seldom used in the shop.
Eric
12" Starret rule & my old stand by Lufkin 6' folding rule with the brass extensions..also use tapes for measuring long stuff...
ToolDoc
A six foot folding rule. If you need Incra rulers in your shop then you are doing something wrong. The six foot rule, the same Starrett square you mentioned are about all I ever use. I occassionally use a 12' tape. I use tape measures mostly when I buy lumber. I rarely use them when I start building a piece.
The folding rule gets me in the ball park (right proportions) - holding workpieces against one another for exact measurement and using story sticks achieves the appropriate level of accuracy. Accuracy in this instance means consistency. If I use the rule to lay out a mark on a story stick at 31" I couldn't care less if the rule itself is off a 16th or so. The story stick simply makes sure that each workpiece I actually lay out from the stick is on the same mark. That's all that's really required. Any joinery to be cut will almost always be marked from the width of the chisel used to cut it, by holding one workpiece against another, or by eye (dovetail spacing for instance).
If the woodworker finds himself needing to actually measure 64ths and 32nds then he is not working as efficiently and logically as he potentially could.
I'm working with a fellow who asked me if I would teach him a bit about furniture making. I asked him to bring his own miscellaneous hand tools - I would provide all the saws, planes and stuff like that. He showed up on the first day with a couple or three Incra rules which I would not allow him to use. I sent him to the orange box to buy a Lufkin Red End and he's never looked back.
Get rid of all the extraneous crap that you think will make you a better craftsman. It's a waste of time and a waste of money.
I use a Starrett 18” rule that is grooved for use in the combination squares, as my everyday rule. I also get a lot of use out of a Lufkin 48” rule, graduated in 8th and 16th This 48“ rule is very useful for me, since most of my work is under 4 feet, or at least the individual components are. I like the long rule, more than a tape measure or a folding wood rule, in fact, despite my leaning towards traditional tools, I can’t stand folding wood rules. I use a tape measure rough sizing of parts.
Rob Millard
I've adjusted my work to rely on five basic layout tools, and then I depend entirely on precise machine set-ups to deliver pieces of consistent length, width and thickness.
I can live with tolerances of 1/16" -- 1/32". None of the work I've undertaken has called for anything more precise, more exact, than that. At some point the exact dimension, the actual number, isn't as important as your ability to make all the material identical, whether it's by hand or power tool.
Start square, finish square...and here's how I get there:
1) Dial calipers for thicknessing my material.
2) Lufkin tape measure for layout on rough lumber.
3) More accurate work calls for the Lufkin folding ruler...still around $8 bucks apiece at the flea markets. I envy those who have one with a brass hook. Can't seem to find those any more.
4) I also use a combination square for layout and machine set-up. I can set the table saw blade and router depth by laying the blade on edge and raising/lowering the blade or bit to match the height of the appropriate hash mark.
5) Invested in a good machinist's square to check equipment for square. Relevance? Start square, finish square. All the rulers in the world won't help if you can't produce square material on all six faces, whether by hand or machine.
I know there's work that calls for more precise measurements. But I can get exactly the result I want for the free-standing furniture I build by relying on only those measuring devices and the accurate set-up of my equipment.
Good luck and good skill!
tony b.
Well, I think folding wood rules were more of a carpenters tool anyway. The fixed rule you referred to probably makes a lot of sense in a furniture maker's shop.
Hell, I might just be a convert.
Chas,
I think you brought out the most important point here. Consistency. It's not about getting to .5 mm accuracy in cuts, etc. If you plan your work flow properly, rarely will a rule be needed to make a gnats a** measurement. Each piece leads to the measurement of the next if you are proceding correctly.
However, if ya gotta go back and make a another piece, that's another story....
Scott
As soon as you try to measure and then transfer the measurement by reading a rule, you introduce the chance of a mistake - hence the admonishment "measure twice, cut once." I teach woodworking to high school students and I emphasize full size patterns and bar gauges or winding sticks (also called story boards). Using the Veritas bar gauge heads and two sticks, I have an excellent measurement transfer system. Go to Winterthur or Williamsburg and check out what cabinet makers used a 100 years ago - you won't find all the precision rules, combo squares, calipers, etc. that you find now. A lot of folks look more like machinists than cabinet makers!
When I do have to measure, I use the 8 ft. Lufkin folding boxwood rule - always in my back pocket, doesn't take up much room, is compact and the brass extension is wonderful. While I have tapes, I find them ackward and hard to use. What is important is that you be consistent and use one rule for an entire project. Tapes are notorious for being off when compared to another one so stay with one only - don't keep two on your bench.
I agree with most of what you said, however, the term 'winding sticks' is usually meant to refer to paired sticks used to determine the amount of twist in a board or an assembly.
It's not exactly a ruler, but the single most used and useful measuring device in my shop is a 6" dial caliper in fractions--i.e. 64ths rather than decimal.
I just got my first dial caliper (digital) this summer, and use it often! Love it. Should have gotten one long ago.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Tru, A sharp knife, A Lufkin red end folding rule (6' and/or 8') with 6"slide extensions and (especially with hook) Lufkin once made the 6" with two 6" slides. (I still have one.)
If you clean and oil the joints occasionally, they'l last forever. (Metal tapes are dangerous around moving machinery and electricity.)
One Starrett 12" combination square with one 6"rule, one center finder and one angle divider attachment to fit the combo.
The center finder is great to mark centers for turning cylindrical work. IE ; Spindles / handles on square or round stock. The angle divider (Compass) will accurately lay out angles.
Good accurate framing square. A few starrett 6" pocket rules and a 1/4"x 6"pocket rule with depth guage attachment.
6to8" dividers/ (to describe circles, transfer measurments,l ocate and mark equally spaced centers of consecutive holes
6" to 8' inside/outside calipers to measure inside holes and outside diameters
Buy 'em as you need 'em. plenty lying around at flea mkts
Clean up with brillo soap pads oil occasionally.
Most of my tools are at least 50 yrs old and shiny bright.
Stein.
Edited 9/12/2003 5:42:25 PM ET by steinmetz
I use a metric tape measure. It is much easier to divide 18.3 by two than 17 9/16 by two.
Frank
http://www.fine-tools.com
They have folding rules in metric graduations if you're inclined to using a folding rule.
Direct measurement when possible....no rules, just marks.
other than that, I have lots of rules, most used occasionally....most used is a six inch from Lee Valley that stays in my apron. Many of my students turn up with one of their own after using mine.
I do use a 16' tape measure a lot; plenty accurate for woodworking if you're careful and know what you're doing. I do use calipers (and we do do CNC stuff where the accuracy is measured in 'thous), and good quality combo squares sometimes; I have a little one from Lee Valley that is good. I have folding rules, and I've tried hard to like them, and can't.cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, N.S
Adrian,
I'm with you, no matter how much I try, I don't like the folding rules..and I have a couple of good ones from my dad. The 6" starrets along with the dial calipers and a 12' tape are the main workhorses. This past weekend I picked up the 12" Starrets with the attachments used...I'm going to put that to work also. I'm thinking about putting a measuring tape on my 48" level...which could save some steps in marking up panels.
The tape measure has particular utility when cutting plywood and you want to reference off the factory cut side....such as when your doing a cross cut on the sled
Frank, ain't it the truth?! I've not yet gone so far as to get a metric tape measure, but when planing, I set my dial caliper on Metric and use the mm scale on my planer until I get right down to final dimension+"a hair".forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
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