Replies

1. 
   JEarch | Jun 26, 2022 02:59pm | #1

   I typically follow any stain with a coat of dewaxed shellac, 1 to 1-1/2 pound cut. Then I can use whatever top coat best suits the final use. Make sure the shellac is dewaxed.

1. 
   trusche2 | Jun 26, 2022 11:00pm | #3

   Thanks JEarch for your reply. If using a darker stain such as cherry, which shellac color would you use - blonde, amber, or garnet?

1. 
   JEarch | Jun 27, 2022 11:48am | #8

   I just use Zinsser Sealcoat as it is already dewaxed. As Bilyo says below, the shellac color isn’t so much the issue. Just do a sample board or two to determine the depth of stain that will yield the end result you’re looking for after the shellac and finish coats.

1. 
   trusche2 | Jun 27, 2022 12:31pm | #9

   Thanks again. This is the information I was looking for.

2. 
   joeleonetti | Jun 27, 2022 02:54pm | #12

   I am a huge fan of Garnet shellac on cherry. It provides a nice color to cherry that looks even nicer as the wood darkens over time. Photos are hard to show color but I've attached a few of cherry I've finished with Garnet shellac. For the maple in the images, I used blond shellac.

   
2. 
   gulfstar | Jun 26, 2022 03:48pm | #2

   My entire basement paneling, moldings, bookcases etc is mahogany and gel stain, followed by dewaxed shellac and 3 coats of water base poly. The gel stain needs to be very dry , I waited 48 hours before applying the sealcoat.

1. 
   trusche2 | Jun 26, 2022 11:02pm | #4

   Thanks for your reply Gulfstar. With mahogany, did you use a garnet shellac? If so, how many coats and do you scuff in between coats?

3. 
   gulfstar | Jun 27, 2022 07:52am | #5

   The coloring is done by the stain, in this case Georgian cherry gel stain from General finishes. One coat of Sealcoat by Zinsser , light sanding with a scotch brite and 3 coats of poly sanded 220 between coats.

1. 
   trusche2 | Jun 27, 2022 12:31pm | #10

   Thanks again for your help.

4. 
   bilyo | Jun 27, 2022 10:24am | #6

   The problem with using a oil based finish directly on top of an oil based gel stain is not that it will "compromise" the gel stain (did they use that word?). If the gel stain excess has been thoroughly wiped off and it is completely dry, there is usually not a problem. However, it is possible that, particularly with a wiping varnish, the solvents in the varnish can soften the stain and the wiping action can "pull" or streak it. As others have mentioned above, one solution to this is to apply a coat of dewaxed shellac to seal and fix the stain to prevent the streaking. Color doesn't matter, but remember that any color in the shellac will tend to change the color of the stain below it. Zinsser's Seal Coat is good for this because it is pre-mixed and dewaxed. But it is not the only brand that will work.
   If your top coat is going to be a polyurethane, you can get a spray can to apply the first coat. A light coat is all that is necessary. Then subsequent coats can be applied by what ever means suits you.
   I'm uncertain about applying water based products over oil based stains. Instructions on the WB product cans (that I've used) suggest that it is OK. I usually don't like to do this without the shellac "barrier" coat in between; just to be safe.

1. 
   trusche2 | Jun 27, 2022 12:33pm | #11

   Thanks for the information bilyo. Your response along with the others have filled in the information gaps I had.

5. 
   DRBWWing | Jun 27, 2022 11:14am | #7

   I use gel stain on my chip carvings. I've coated with shellac, polyurethane, and lacquer and never had an issue.

   Make sure its completely dry.