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I would like to find out more about wipe-on polyurethane products. I have seen several product brands on the market, including Minwax Wipe-On Poly, Jel’D Poly-Kote, and Petri Gel Poly Finish.
I am considering using a wipe-on poly on bathroom vanities. I want to get a professional looking finish while maintaining good water resistance.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Mike
Replies
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It is easy and much less expensive to make your own wiping varnish. It is merely a 50/50 mixture of varnish and either mineral spirits or naphtha. Using naphtha will let it dry faster.
Go here for more info:
http://members.home.net/jdkx2/links.htm
Read the article titled "Hand Applied Finishes".
*Mike,Personally, I am extremely satisfied with Min Wax and have incorporated it's use on many of my commissions where durability is of concern.A word of caution, they (Min Wax) advises b against the use of tack cloths and am here to tell you that it is good advice.Dano
*I couldn't agree with Dano more regarding tack rags. They do more to cause rather than cure problems. A good vacuuming and a wipe with a solvent dampened rag will work as well.However, as to Minwax wiping varnish. I have no performance problem with it, it's just I don't want to spend full price for a diluted product. It should be about 1/2 the price of the full strength stuff. I don't pay for watered scotch so I don't like paying for "watered" varnish.
*For your bathroom and water restistance consider using marine spar varnish in the 50/50 mode.
*Howie,I know that you prefer to make your own wiping varnish and understand your reasons in doing so. But, Min Wax Wipe On Poly isi not a wipe on varnish, it is a wipe on polyurethane.FWIW, as I've said here before, I had resisted the use of polyurethane products for years and when Min Wax Wipe On Poly hit the market, I was very skeptical. I first tried this product on my own kitchen cabinets when I remodeled our kitchen, that was about 3 or 4 years ago. I was (am) so impressed with the results I have, as I said earlier, that I have incorporated it for use on commissioned work; when applicable. The majority of my commissions do end up having a French polish finish and have found that Min Wax's claim of a "hand rubbed look" is valid, when applied properly.Unfortuneatly, I am not a chemist. Since Min Wax and most other manufactures do not list the ingredients on their cans, only the harmful ones, I don't feel comfortable in messing with their formulations unless it is a straight varnish. I can only assume that Min Wax wipe ons are formulated differently than their brush ons and sprays, this is probably true with other brands as well. I seriously doubt that they are merely diluted. For example, on commissions that are to be used outdoors or where discoloration might be of concern, I use either Interlux or Epifanes, as you know, which are a high gloss marine grade finish. Both manufacturers recommendi against thinning most of their products. I believe this is so the UV blockers, driers, etc. won't be diluted, which would affect the performance of the finish. Not to mention the affect on the gloss. Yes, in the case of gloss, I could rub it out, but then there is the added time (cost) to do so. At $30 to $40 a quart, I have no inclination to experiment.Please, don't misunderstand, I am not saying one way is right or wrong. This is howi I approach finishing. Obviously, I am very conservative by sticking with just a few brands over the years. In doing so I am comfortable with their charteristics and know exactly what to expect and how to achieve the desired results with very little or no experimentation.Perhaps if I were a hobbyist, I would be more inclined to experiment more. Since I am not, consistency in my finishes are very critical, IMO.Personally, I think that the "new" wipe ons are a real boon for the amateur woodworker precisely because a hand rubbed look can easily be achieved, at least in the case of Min Wax (I've not tried others), that is also very durable.Dano
*Probably the main reason the manufacturers warn against dilution is that if solvent is added the finishes fail VOC environmental regulations. Polyurethane is varnish by the way, probably mostly aklyd, "modified" by the polyurethane addition, in part to add toughness, and mostly as a marketing gimmick. (At least the one part stuff.)
*i Polyurethane is varnish by the way...No, Polyurethane isi polyurethane. Spar varnishes and polyurethane varnishes have different properties and are very different in composition.Generally speaking, spar varnishes never cure to 100% and they will remain flexible (soft). Polys, on the other hand will fully cure to a much harder surface. No marketing gimmick at all.Dano
*Dano, polyurethane is polyurethane is certainly a true statement. But, in this context, polyurethane is an additive to varnish.All kinds of stuff are made with polyurethane; pickup bed liners, solid foam insulation, mouldings, airplane models. Shoot, I even found a company that makes condoms from polyurethane. The difference in hardness comes from the amount of oil mixed in the varnish. Take a hard varnish, polyurethane or not. Cut it 50% with linseed oil and apply. It will be soft.Dave
*i Poly is poly, not varnishThat could confuse people looking for help here. I was taught:Other than 2-part poly finishes, which "are" polyurethanes, what is commonly sold as "poly" is an alkyd resin varnish with some poly added to it.A "Marine" varnish is based on phenolic resins, or a mix of phenolic and alkyd resins, and uses Tung oil rather than Linseed oil for better moisture resistance. A "Spar" varnish is the same, but with much more oil/less resin.Many a Marine/Spar varnish has a polyurethane additive, though not often stated on the label. It would be SO helpful if manufacturers listed ingredients.
*Dave, very true; that was what I was trying to say, polyurethane is a i type of varnish.Tom, I didn't say "Poly is poly, not varnish".Dano
Howard,
Please explain why not to use a tack rag with MinWax wipte-on poly and what do you mean by a "solvent dampened rag"? Thanks.Regards,
Buzzsaw
Buzzsaw,
If you'll look at the dates on this thread, you'll see that it is old. You will be waiting for a very long time before Danford Jennings replies to your post as he hasn't been on this forum for at least a couple of years.
I often didn't agree with Dano, but if he advised against using a tack rag with wipe on poly, then more than likely it is for a good reason. However, I can't think of a reason it would cause problems. You can make your own tack rags using a little mineral spirits and a little of the wipe on poly. Dampen rags with the poly and the mineral spirits, using more mineral spirits than poly and distribute it by crumpling up the rag and working it around. Don't saturate the rags. Put the rags in a sealed container and let it sit for a couple of days and work it around again. This shouldn't cause any finishing problems because it would be completely compatible since you are using the same poly for the rags as for the finish.
A solvent dampened rag is simply a rag moistened with mineral spirits or naptha
Ready-made tack rags often have some form of raw linseed oil on them and possibly a sticky wax. Not boiled since then the rag would harden up quickly. You wouldn't want that under a water-based poly or acrylic or lacquer. Some of the newer synthetic tack rags use some other sticky substance and are definitely compatible with everything. So, it would depend on the brand of tack rag you use. I tend not to use them much and have not had any special adverse effects. But the warning probably comes from somebody's bad experience with a particular brand of tack cloth and finish.
Buzzsaw,
When I saw your post, I got excited because I thought Mr. Jennings had come back to the forum! But then I realized you had just unearthed an old thread.
Mr. Jennings has a lot of great knowledge, and he readily shared it with others here. He stopped posting here because he didn't like the way the new forum was organized. A couple of other very knowledgeable posters left with him.
Anyway, I agree that Mr. Jennings knew what he was talking about. He was formally educated in woodworking, and really knew how machines operate and understood the properties of wood. If he suggested against the use of tack cloth, I'd tend to trust him.
I am in the process of using MinWax wip-on polyurethane and I'm wondering why not to use a tack cloth? I bought one and was planning on using it after sanding. Please tell me why it is not recommended and I do not see a warning bout tack cloths on the can. Thanks...Regards,
Buzzsaw
Mike.. I've a question for you. Did you make these vanities? And if so.. what materials did you use and what size are they.
Reason I ask.. my inlaws have asked me to replace the two vanities they have in one of their bathrooms.
The existing ones are 7' along facing walls with a sink in each one. They're 40 years old and deteriorating badly at this point.
I can't find a source for prefab counters and am wondering what you did.
Thanks,
Bill
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