I’m a novice at woodworking, kind of feeling my way around the bench using some inherited older tools and a couple decent quality newer ones.
A few days ago, I was tuning up an old coffin plane (I think made by William Ward? in NYC, maybe around late 1800’s). Anyway, as far as I’ve determined, it hasn’t much collector value, so I went ahead and tuned it up.
After flattening the sole with 60 grit on glass, I then smoothed it with some finer grits…probably to about 320.
Ok, here’s where you purists might want to turn away. After I finished, I noticed my little bottle of white lightening (wax-based bicycle chain lube) on the back of my bench. http://www.whtlight.com/bike/wl.html
I figured…what the heck. Shook it up and applied it, let it dry, wiped if off. Wow…was that slick. And it looked nice…and it was SLICK. When I tried the plane on some cherry that I had, it glided like it didnt’ want to stop.
So yesterday I applied some to my just-made shooting board…on the edge where the plane rides (not the coffin plane, of course). And the same results…the plane skated like it was on wet ice, coated with teflon.
My question is…can anyone offer advice on whether this product is harmful to wood in either short or long-term use? It actually looks pretty nice, is easy to apply, and for a small project might make a decent finish where you want extreme smoothness with a natural look and feel.
Any comments would be great…thanks, bill
Replies
Bill, not knowing all of the ingredients in White Lightning, I'm just speculating...but assuming it contains wax and probably some non polymerizing oils...about the only downside I can think of is that it might rub off on the wood and possibly affect it's porosity. In other words, if some of it penetrates the stock you are working on, it might cause it to accept stains unevenly.
Jon,
Never made it myself, but my grandpa says you use corn, sugar, and good spring water........
Jeff
Jeff, your grampa had it right...only you don't even need the sugar, if you let the corn germinate and then go with a sour mash. Good stuff.
As for this wax issue, though...I don't think the wax is the key problem. Wax won't penetrate much unless it's heated and wax is easily removed in the final scraping and/or finishing processes. It would be the oils (if any) in the formula that would tend to penetrate and distort the wood's natural porosity. As for using a non polymerizing "lube" product like this as a finish in and of itself, I'd be concerned that it would continue to absorb dust and grime indefinitely and eventually turn the wood very dark...basically in the same way as pure (raw) linseed oil does.
Edited 9/13/2003 9:17:09 AM ET by Jon Arno
Billy,
I too use White Lightening on my bikes and I can tell you from sad experience that one side of a piece I was finish sanding got splattered while I was tuning my bike and I ended up having to disassemble the piece and replace the splattered piece. The WL soaked into the wood and nothing I tried would remove the spots short of covering it with pigmented paint.
Unless you are planning on building wooden sprockets and chainrings, I would avoid any contaminate on wood.
Doug
Thanks for the comments.
How about using it to lube the sole of a metal plane? You apply it, it dries, you wipe it off (kind of like car wax)...no visible residue remains, but obviously there is something there. Would using that plane then cause the dried WL to contaminate or embed in the wood? Any thoughts?
And back to part of my original question...would using WL on a small piece to finish it be a bad idea? It made the sole of the wooden coffin plane look very nice, and super smooth, but will it cause long term damage or problems?
Billy,
In the extreme, anything on any part of the tool that comes in contact with the wood can cause contamination. I guess I'm hyper sensitive to this issue since I have had a few contamination issues in the past and it tends to diminish the please you get from seeing a piece completed. I don't go to the extreme of wearing cotton gloves when I start the final sanding to avoid sweat contaminates since my shop is air conditioned, but I fully understanding and appreciate why it is done.
Doug
Depending on the porosity of the wood... the negative effects that you encountered should be able to be mitigated by using Naptha to wipe down the wood followed by wiping as much of that off with a clean, dry cloth as possible. If, as Jon noted, the main ingredient that's an issue here is wax... the Naptha should at least dilute and spread the wax so that it's a less concentrated issue. Wiping the still wet Naptha off with a clean dry cloth (turning to use a clean, dry portion with each swipe) would remove most of the wax from the surface of the wood, leaving just that portion which is already in the pores as the sole remaining issue in terms of finishing.
It'd be worth trying this out on a piece of scrap wood just to see to what extent the problem could be mitigated. Whatever is left in the wood could theoretically be further mitigated by using an oil soluable dye to stain the wood since the dye vehicle would be compatible with the wax and should allow the dye to penetrate whatever waxy deposits remain.
It's an interesting problem. I'm half tempted to go buy some White Lightning just to see how much I could mitigate it as a finishing problem.
Regards,
Kevin
Kevin,
In theory you're right but I guess I am reacting to the concept of deliberately introducing a contaminate into your work. White lightening is a pretty hitech product and my one experience with it was really bad. I wipe my work down with Naptha to see any potential problems but why take the chance?
BTW, a small, and I mean small, bottle of WL will set you back about $7.
Doug
Doug,
You know, you're right...WL is way to expensive to be doing this with anyway, but I was just curious. As I said, I'm a newbie to woodworking. So far I've mostly made shavings and sawdust (and a couple small, simple projects).
Let me ask this...is lubricating the soles of planes (either wooden or metal) necessary or desireable? If so, what is the preferred lubrication material?
Thanks for all the input, billy
Billy,
I can't speak to what others do, I don't use anything except to keep the soles flat, clean and polished.
Doug
I never wax my planes either, but if I did, I would consider using talc, over any kind of wax.
Billy,
Yes, lubricating the soles of your planes is a good idea since it reduces friction which makes the job a bit easier and lessens wear on the sole. Most folks use parafin, bees wax, or just plain old paste wax.
Jeff
In theory you're right but I guess I am reacting to the concept of deliberately introducing a contaminate into your work.
Oh, I definitely agree 100%. I was just intrigued by the challenge of how to fix the problem once it was created. Parafin wax is used as a sawblade lubricant when cutting aluminum on a tablesaw. Just today I burned a bunch of time trying to clean the wax off of some components going into a Microsoft tradeshow booth... only to find out that I still hadn't gotten them clean when the "fish eyes" showed up as I was spraying. My quest for this afternoon is to find some alternative method of lubricating the aluminum for the metal shop guys that will be a little more painter-friendly. LOL
Regards,
Kevin
Every time I read the the WL thread title I couldn't help but think of what I knew as WL. You would get it on any thing that was subject to corrosion. Not any thing that you thougt well of. LOL
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
I have quite a few hand planes, some for use and others I have just for the enjoyment I get out of collecting them. When I first get them I make sure they are straight and true so I use a good straight edge and a square that I know is true. When I first get older planes I start with cleaning them with warm water and some S,O,S soap pads after I rince thoughrly and dry with a paper towel I let them air dry for a couple days. If the planes need a little bit of help truing them I start with a little 3 in 1 oil ,pc of 80 grit paper and a "1/4 x 4" x 12" peice of steel that I wrap with the sand paper. After working the dips and shallow spots out I use finer grits sand paper until I get to 800 - 1200 grit paper . I also use this method to sharpen them. All of them are so sharp that you can see through the ribbons of shavings that come off. My Grandad used to say thats when you know you have it properly sharpend and true is when you start at one end of the stock that you are planing and can go all the way to the other without the ribbon breaking then when you unroll the ribbon you should be able to read threw it.
When I finish sharpening and truing I make them a dust bag that has a draw string on one end. I make the covers out of cotton material so it will wick any moisture away from the planes this also keeps dust off.
Good luck and right or wrong this is my method of taking care of my planes and I'm always looking to add to them but my wife says she thinks having 92 of them is plenty but I think I can always make room ,
Jim Clark at the "PUTTERIN YANKEE"woodworking shop
Finally,someone who says the most profound thing I have been looking for in all this plane talk. Ido it because I enjoy it! Thank God there are people who do things for the simple pleasure of enjoyment,when work is done and I walk into my shop and look at all the planes I have I'm not going to have a hissy fit because my plane irons are original and thin and not new Hock replacements,or because I can pick any of them up and use them without worrying if the collectors will lower their estimate of my Stanley No.1 or No.2. Sorry to say I like planes as tools,and planes that don't work are not really tools anymore they are museum exibits and if you get excited looking at them in their glass cases thats o.k. But please don't sell the guys short who like spending an afternoon,dare I say the word, refurbishing an old plane so it can once again plane wood. I don't even know why I first started collecting these things but after a few years and enough iron and wood to rehab Old Iron Sides,I still just like being around them and knowing I can grab any one I want and use that sucker till I puck if thats what makes me happy. This outta get the Neanderthals turning in their graves and the Normites saying I told you so! This little tirade is directly attributed to so called expert who called on me out of the blue to see if I wanted to sell any of my planes, if the guy was an expert he would know that anyboby with a garage full on old planes must not want to sell them or he would"nt have so many.
Amen;
I find myself planing a piece of wood just simply for the joy of planing and seeing the fine shavings curling out of the plane.
I'm only up to 17 planes so far, but I know there are more of them in my future.
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