I find that my quarter sawn white oak bows significantly even when just an 1/8 inch or so is removed from the surface by my planer. I got more than a 1/2 inch of bow when resawing a 36 inch piece of 6/4. The wood came from Highland Lumber in New Hampshire, which has a good reputation. I don’t have a moisture meter, so don’t no moisture content. The wood was purchased in December and has been racked in my barn, where my shop is, since then.
Is this typical behavior of this wood? I never got any bowing when milling or resawing ash and only minor bowing when working with maple.
Replies
adurity,
You most likely got a piece that was still a bit green, it happens. Oak doesn't tend to move around anymore than other woods and a lot less than some.. (Elm for example!) bowing can be easily adjusted for. Remember you aren't machining an auto part, your making a piece of furnature or something.. you mentioned bow of an 1/8th of an inch, over how long a span?
if it's over 18+ feet like a lot of my stuff is, that's considered straight as an arrow!
if it's only over a few inches then you might need to take some corrective action..
adurity,
I shop at Highland too and find their prices to be some of the best..especially for s2s or s3s..the differential verses rough stock is only about $.25 a board foot. Interestingly, I've had problems with maple bowing but never qtr. swan white oak. However, very often I'll buy a significant portion of my project wood s2s to avoid issues with snipe, bow, etc.
Let it sit and see what happens. If needed, keep it stacked and stickered.
Just a reminder that its a good idea to balance cuts on jointer and planer. Better to remove 1/16th on each side that 1/8th on one.
I've found by experience that white oak just doesn't dry evenly, by air or kiln. I had taken to rough milling it up to four times and letting it sit in between for at least a day. Also, as someone previously stated, try to take equal cuts from both sides. Finally, get a moisture meter!!! There are some cheap ($30-40) models that don't have pins -you just put them on the wood, read the guage and cross reference a chart. Very simple. And if you bring it to the lumber yard it will save you the disappointment of that nice piece you saved for the panel becoming a taco before it goes in its frame.
spalted,
Buy a moisture meter?
Well why not avoid disappointment altogether?
Buy your wood green and dry it yourself. you can't believe the fantastic prices gree wood is available for. Wood that sells for 7 or eight dollars a bd. ft. dried and surfaced costs 70 or 80 cents at the saw mill. You can probably save enough on one entertainment center to pay for the planner/ jointer you'll need to use the wood once it's dried..
I know what's wrong with the idea, it doesn't provide the instant gratification so many need..
Since it has been equilibrating in the barn for a period of time it is unlikely to be due to a drying defect and is more than likely an inherent stress in the wood itself. Even q-sawn woods can have stress and when unevenly releaved on one side it will draw to opposite side. I see this all the time when sawing logs. Logs that "look" staright as an arrow can have internal stresses that require me to rotate and relieve on the opposite side to have an easier time sawing.
I would remove wood on both sides and see what happens.
I'd love to be able to do that but unfortunately i don't have the spce or the time- If i knew 2 years or more ahead of time what species i need and about how much, AND had the space, I would.
QS oak really loves to bow when sawn and dried. It contracts differently in the newer wood than in the heart wood so it will bow towards the bark as i remember. When you straighten it you cut across the grain somewhat. I would imagine the lumber would continue to have the same tendencies as M.C. changes. Once its out of the kiln at 6% it will go back up to air dried M.c. of 12% or so unless its stored in conditioned, dehumidified space. I would think it would move around as its M.C. changed.
Even after i straighten lumber on my jointer, than flip it over and straight line it on my table saw, often you have to go back to the jointer again to straighten over again.
At least its stable across its width!
KP
Spalted,
It takes about a year to air dry wood, (unless you bring it indoors during the winter, when I've brought green wood down to 7% moisture in about 45 days)
As for not enough space,, Hmmm, I'll bet I can find places. What ya got under your bed? up in the attic? I've dried wood in the spare bedroom (guests think it's funny to share space with a pile of wood, some have complimented me on the woodsy smell)
If she who must be obeyed is going to be a problem , be proactive about it, suggest that you'd love to make her a nice,....... but with the price of wood it's simply not in the budget, unless <G>
My shop is not weatherproof but I have plenty of space to dry wood among the rafters. I have resisted buying green wood because I do not know if the ambient air from around the eaves and doors will prevent drying. Assuming I can leave it as long as necessary, will I be OK?
sansmnd,
I air dry outdoors and have found that it dries better with out any covering. It rains and snows on it and as long as I strap down the wood and rotate it periodically it doesn't warp.. drying in your attic and eves would probably be better. I can easily dry to around 10% moisture content in a year per inch certain woods dry faster and give less grief, hard maple isa real bear to air dry but other woods like cherry, white oak, black walnut just seem immune from abuse and neglect..
Exposed to the weather wood will quickly turn silver or black but a single pass thru the planer eliminates all of that..
.. Air drying has it's limits, in that it's pretty hard to get it down to furniture dryness of around 7% unless you bring the wood indoors during the winter.
My better half is no problem, she's rather encouraging. However. I'm only 26 so I rent a tiny apartment, own no land, and share a friends shop. He's anal about space (is is rather tight) and i would hate to start that argument...
I never got any bowing when milling or resawing ash !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Geeee where you get your wood???????????
I use Ash ALOT and it is a 'tame' wood... But sometimes it do that!
Even Hickory! Every 'stick' of Purpleheart I have ever had just lays there 'Like Stone' and about as hard to work with! Now if I can get a License to buy Blasting Caps.... To cut it in half...
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