Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 09, 2009 06:32pm | #1

   White oak is a relatively easy wood to stain since it isn't prone to blotching.  That means no "conditioner" or pre-stain sealer is needed.  (And you never need sanding sealer.) 

   Staining before assembly isn't always a good idea.  It is fine for the panels in frame and panel assemblies so that if the wood shinks you don't see light stripes.  But, for many other assemblies it is extremely difficult for the assembly to be so precise that a little bit of "adjustment" to make surfaces flush, for example isn't needed.  Pre-staining makes that very difficult.

   And, you can't use a pigmented stain on the surfaces that will receive glue.  They would have to be masked, or otherwise prevented from getting stain. 

   As far as what color--only you or your client can tell you that.  It's important in any event to test the finish schedule from start to finish before applying anything to the project itself.  That's where I get "client" approval from my wife. 

   Is your pie safe to be used in a kitchen or will it be a more purely decorative piece?  I assume from the kind of item that this is to be a fairly casual or "country" look.  Is that right?  Light or dark?  Is the oak quarter-sawn and if so do you want to emphasize the "flake", or minimize it as would be the case with mission style? 

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Nov 09, 2009 09:22pm | #2

   Let me add to Steve's post that if you plan on actually placing pies or other food goods in the "pie safe" avoid any oil based finish on the inside. Oil based finishes off-gas almost forever and the odor will permeate food and food stuffs. Use only a shellac or a waterborne clear finish.

   Howie.........
3. 
   northhouguy | Nov 09, 2009 11:28pm | #3

   Fume it and then use garnett shellac for a finish.

4. 
   jdubbs | Nov 10, 2009 01:35am | #4

   I just finished some kitchen I made from QSWO. Here is my finishing schedule. Water based dye, med. brown, 1-3/4 tbl spoon to 300 ml of water. I followed that with a coat of orange shellac, two coats of sealcoat and 3 coats of water based poly. One other thig, I filled the pores with grain filler. I am very happy with the results. Hope this helps. Regards!

5. 
   hokey | Nov 17, 2009 04:14pm | #5

   The oak is quater sawn. I have tested some stains on scrap but I am not where I want to be in color. Walnut stains are too dark with the and the pores are black looking. Browner stains are closer to the look I thought it should be.

   What is a good way to finish oak? I have never worked with it much. I normally use oil of some type.

1. 
   spotcheck | Nov 17, 2009 05:56pm | #6

   I fumed the first couple things I made from QSWO.  Am glad I did just for the experience, but doubt I will do it again.

   Jeff Jewett - Homstead Finishing:

   http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/pdf/mission_oak_rev3-2009.pdf

1. 
   miserybob | Nov 17, 2009 06:09pm | #7

   +1 on the Jewitt article.  It can be difficult to get the right intensity and color for the dye, and it will always look terrible at first - the look changes radically as you layer dyes/stains/sealers. 

   Anyway, it's fun to experiment and it adds another tool to your finishing kit!

1. 
   spotcheck | Nov 17, 2009 06:19pm | #8

   Bob - you are exactly right.  Also - remember - God invented the back side of bookcases, pie safes, etc. for one reason - You can try out swatches of anything and everything on a large panel that will be against the wall.

   PLUS - a few generations later, someone will look at it and say "WTF was great-great grandpa smoking when he did this?"

2. 
   ClifP | Nov 19, 2009 04:56am | #9

   I agree about fuming. I've made a number of QSWO projects, and fuming followed by an oil gives a beautiful finish. Its not like a stain that differentially absorbs into the different grains. Fuming gives a deep rich color which I really like.
   I have not done a lot of experimenting, but directly putting poly on the fumed oak seemed to wash out the color. I found using Watco really deepened the tone, and then I capped that with a poly. I'm sure there are more professional ways to finish, but this works for me.