Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 14, 2010 03:51pm | #1

   Circa 1850 makes three different strippers.  Mineral spirits (or plain water) is suggested in the directions for rinsing after using the stripper.  The alcohol likely did not harm, but I don't think it was recommended.  I'm sure the label on the Circa 1850 products didn't suggest using ammonia  The ammonia is likely the culpret and should never have been be used on bare wood, though it is sometimes (so is lye  ) as a stripper for rough woodwork.  It's what caused the staining.  If the stripper hadn't removed everything with the first application, repeating the original stripper would have been the better choice.

   The remedy for this ammonia stain is oxalic acid.  (Sometimes sold as wood bleach in paint stores--though don't confuse this with the two part wood bleach that you might see.)  Mix a saturated solution, taking care with gloves and eye protection, and not to breathe any dust.  Wash over the full surface--not just the spots.  Let it dry, then wash off with ample water. (You might need to do this several times if the stains are bad.)  Then, after thoroughly washing off the acid with water, neutralize the acid by mixing baking soda with water. 

   You will then have to lightly sand to remove raised grain, or some remaining marks if any.. 

   But, in general, the main advise is to read the labels and follow directions. 

1. 
   stewie | Nov 14, 2010 06:49pm | #2

   Fixing white blotches

   Thanks,  Steve

   I had read  directions in  The New Wood Finishing Book by Michael Dresdner , published by Taunton

   on how to use  strippers and wash afterwards.

     Perhaps the problem was in the issue date  of 1999.

   Did not know 1850  produces 3 types.

   Thanks again , and tomorrow it will be Oxalic acid.

   Dave

   Life is uncertain.  Enjoy the ride.

1. 
   Gretchen | Nov 15, 2010 01:54pm | #3

   Ammonia "might" be used if

   Ammonia "might" be used if trying to strip milk paint. There isn't anything wrong with the date of the book, As Steve says, follow directions on YOUR product and don't mix up "stripping" with "removing stripper".  

    I personally use mineral spirits and NEVER water which raises the grain so much that you lose the wood's patina.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 15, 2010 07:11pm | #4

   The sequence used by the OP is actually the one recommended by Mr. Dresdner who does recommend 1/2 cup of ammonia in 1 qt.of warm water which he says will help remove silicone or other oils.    (p. 56 in the 1999 edition.)  Not something I've ever used, and I doubt I'm going to give it a try soon.

1. 
   Gretchen | Nov 16, 2010 08:12am | #5

   That would go against my grain (pun intended) of never using water on bare wood or to remove stripper!!  I would not question someone of his caliber, but maybe I should!!  Was this when working with an ordinary MC stripper?  Anyway, thanks for checking for all of us. I think that is really "tough" to understand outside the total context of what he was removing--and if it was ordinary stripper, then even moreso.  ;o)

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 16, 2010 07:40pm | #6

   Regardless of the particular stripper used,  Mr. Dresdner  suggests the following "wash it down" sequence -- first a solvent mix consisting of equal parts of DNA, mineral spirits, and lacquer.  Scrub with nylon pad or scrub brush, then wiped dry.  Following this he recommended a wash with 1/2 cup household ammonia in a quart of warm water.

   Seems to me that we have an example here of why not to routinely use the ammonia.  I'm not so negative about grain raising. The process does open pores making them receptive to stain and dye. Very  little sanding should be needed.