I am fairly new to woodworking and want to build a new headboard for our bed. I plan to use mainly 2×4 lumber and some trim, along with an upholstered center insert. Can someone tell me would whitewood or kiln dried be better for this project? I really do not know the difference. I plan to stain and would like to use whichever would be less likely to split and stain evenly.
Thanks
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Replies
Whitewood is an industry term that encompasses many different species - fir, hemlock, pine, spruce, and probably a few others. When buying "whitewood" you'll get one of these. And it will be partially kiln dried - usually only down to 20% moisture.
I've built furniture from whitewood construction lumber with success. I stack it with stickers to allow air to circulate all around it and wait for weeks for it to drop to a more stable moisture content.
My first choice of construction lumber is Southern Yellow Pine (SYP), not whitewood. Choose lumber without the pith (the center of the tree) or if the pith is unavoidable, plan on ripping the lumber apart , discarding the pith, and reglueing. The pith is the least stable part of the board. By cutting it out, you reduce the odds your project will crack or warp.
If whitewood is all you can get, choose carefully and try to get all the same species and avoid the pith.
Mike
I think Mike was implying it but in case it isn't clear- buy 2x12” joist lumber. It's from bigger trees and if you pick through the pile a bit, you can usually find reasonably knot free boards. You can rip the 2x4 sizes you want off the edges and you'll get attractive, stable pieces of “rift sawn” wood that shows the same striped grain on all sides.
The 'whitewood' I saw at HD a while back was really bad, some of the suggestions others have posted would be better choices. It should only be used for single use potato crates.
One of the most common mistakes I find new woodworkers make is thinking they have to buy their wood from the local big box stores. Construction lumbar and furniture grade lumber are two different things, unless you want that look of being made from 2 x 4's I would do a Google search for a hardwood dealer near you. Most towns have several within an hours drive. Not only will you find more and better quality wood selections but you might be surprised at how reasonable the cost is compared to the big box stores.
Lumbar yard wood is never dried properly for furniture making and likely has spent extensive time sitting outside after being "kiln dried" and can. Lead to all kinds of problems when used to build furniture.
agreeing with the above. Framing materials are too prone to warping, cupping, bowing and checking to use. They are wetter than wood used for furniture or trim, and often have the pith and ugly knots, which cause trouble. The you have to do a lot of trimming an planing to get past the rounded edges. Tell us where you live and maybe someone can recommend a good hardwood dealer near you.
An in between choice is that many big box stores carry dimensioned hardwood suitable for furniture making. It can be a bit more expensive but for one project while you are getting comfortable at the new woodworking hobby that would be fine. Also, it is often drier than the construction grade lumbers and less prone to funny movements. I can get at my local Lowe's cherry, poplar (good choice if you want to paint), Sapele, and oak. All would be perfectly acceptable choices for making a bed.
You are paying 3-4 times what you should be paying buying hardwood from Lowes or HD. That make an expensive learning experience for Newbies.
Woods like Poplar, Alder and Soft Maple are relatively I inexpensive woods and won't cost much more than White Wood bought from a big box. Red Oak is also relatively affordable and is extremely workable and easy to finish but it is not in vogue right now, unless you want to age it and turn it gray.
I'll add that right now I can get some species of hardwood for less than the cheapest framing lumber at the box store. Some of that is out of wack prices of framing lumber but worth noting, better lumber for less. Apparently my lumber yard can even get some lower grades of cherry for even less but would have to get a whole pallet...I wish I had more space and money...
Op go to a hardwood dealer and explain what you are doing. Personally I'd prefer a wood that looks good without stain but worst case you can find something relatively local that should be cheep and will be easier to work, more stable and look better than using construction lumber.
here in CNY whitewood is aspen. it is very light weight and pourice and it is kiln dried. although I would not use it for furniture, it takes paint very well. I would consider it for other projects but not furniture grade lumber.
Aspen is a very popular wood for cabinetry and can stain beautifully. As with all wood it needs to be dried and stored properly, but it works easily for the most part and should not be ruled out, especially for a new woodworker because of its lower cost. It is a relatively soft wood, more pine like than hardwood, but that will teach an important skill, how to steam out small dents and dings.
Find a lumberyard where you can pick the pile. Adjacent boards will likely be from the same stand or even the same tree. Stain matching will be far easier.
Check Facebook and Graigs List for lumber.
Some good deals are to be had.
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