Replies

1. 
   PlaneWood | Jun 21, 2002 01:09am | #1

   Well, some poly's need the next coat applied within 2 hrs after the previous coat.  Helmsman, for example.  Either that, or wait for at least 3 days.  Did you read the instructions??  Some don't like another coat if it has been over 5 or 6 days since the last.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
   PlaneWood

2. 
   AspenDave | Jun 21, 2002 04:47am | #2

   What kind of stripper did you use , and what was used to clean the surface after the stripping process ?

   Dave

1. 
   WJPowers | Jun 21, 2002 02:47pm | #4

   I used a strpper made in Canada called "Circa 1876".   It is the most powerful stripping product I have ever encountered. It brushes on and then you brush the finish off. Follow that with steel wool and a thinner wipe down. Then it was on to sanding.

   WJPowers

1. 
   Gretchen | Jun 21, 2002 03:20pm | #5

   I'm with the others. I think you did not get the stripper off adequately. They have a wax ingredient to make them effective and it is much more than a wipe down to get it off.Gretchen

1. 
   WJPowers | Jun 22, 2002 04:16pm | #8

   Gretchen:

   Ah, a tructh in advertising problem!  The can says product contains no wax, so can be finished as soon as it is dry.  Of course, I waited 24 hours before adding the dye, thinking that would get the stripper dry.

   Somehow there must be wax involved. Maybe the varnish and wax that had been on the maple before stripping was deeply ingrained, and came up with the second coat of poly-u? 

   WJPowers

1. 
   AspenDave | Jun 22, 2002 04:46pm | #10

   WJ

       Since I am up in the "Great White North" I am familiar with the Circa products , but truthfully have never used their stripper . But it is my understanding that wax is usually present to give the stripper some "body" and to keep it from running. So maybe it is just a case of some of the methylene chloride still being present ( but should have evaporated with the drying process ).

   Later    Dave

2. 
   AspenDave | Jun 22, 2002 05:04am | #6

   WJ

      The wax in the stripper will not come totally off with just thinners , I usually use a TSP solution and then sometimes follow that with an alcohol wash.

    

   Later   Dave

1. 
   Gretchen | Jun 22, 2002 02:42pm | #7

      The wax in the stripper will not come totally off with just thinners , I usually use a TSP solution and then sometimes follow that with an alcohol wash.

    I personally do not use TSP as it will raise the grain and then sanding is required.  I have found that using mineral spirits in copious amounts with steel wool removes it for me.  Alcohol couldn't hurt either.Gretchen

1. 
   AspenDave | Jun 22, 2002 04:39pm | #9

   Gretch

           I try and stay away from using steel wool as I use quite a bit of "water" based products , and of course water and steel do not mix. I agree with the grain raising issue , but I find that a quick "buff" with a 3m pad or sponge sanding pad , after the surface is completly dry will set the surface up for stain or finish.

   Later   Dave

3. 
   gerry001 | Jun 21, 2002 06:34am | #3

   Arm-R-Seal appears to be described as a wipe-on tung oil, urethane finish, so it appears to be oil base. They don't give application info on their web site, so I don't know about coat thickness, recoat or sanding.

   But what you described is not a simple adhesion problem, so the recoat time and sanding are not likely to be an issue here. Nor is the TransTint. I'd strongly suspect that Big Dave's question about the stripper was dead on. So, it really did "curl up"?

   So, what kind of stripper and how did you clean it off?

   Gerry