We’ve harvested a big white oak tree from our property and amongst the huge stack we have 2 very nice book-matched 2 inch thick pieces that are now glued up to 104 inches by 40 inches. I’d like to use Marcos Soto’s design for the top published in FW August 2017 (https://www.finewoodworking.com/2017/05/23/a-fresh-take-on-the-trestle-table and see attached). My question is whether the trestle base there (when made with white oak from the same tree with adjustments for the differences in length and width) would be sturdy enough to support our top? My calculations say that the Soto top would weigh about 112 pounds and our white oak top about 225, so I’m a bit concerned.
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As long as the wood in the base is as hard as the top there shouldn't be a problem. It doesn't have to be the same wood, it just has to be strong enough. My opinion - if you can make the legs a little wider by maybe an inch, it might allay your anxiety. It's not necessary but it couldn't hurt.
Mikaol
I suppose if the wood was green at the OP this is just about on time, maybe even a touch early. The design is plenty strong.
Single pedestal large tables like the Soto that the OP mentions always make me feel nervous. I imagine a 250 llb bloke sat or even stood on one edge, bouncing a bit. Will it snap or discombobulate the joint of table top to leg tops? Probably not but ......
...I always made any trestle with wider uprights between table top and base. The Soto design already has two members making up each leg. I'd separate them, just to calm my nerves. :-)
Here's one I made of the sort of size the OP plans (see pics). Over-engineered ....? Perhaps. But you can dance on that one.
Lataxe
PS The Soto table is without breadboards but has a split in one end of one of the two planks making up the top. I'd put a butterfly tie across that split; and anywhere else with the potential to develop another split.
I'm confused by your comments regarding safety. The vertical posts are in compression, no concern there. There will be a cleat under the top, that will support the top and hold the two top sections together - kind of. If someone jumps on a long edge, there may be a problem. But as I understand your design, the top will be two boards. If these boards are QS, any cupping will be minimal. If they are flat sawn, you will get some degree of cupping, it is wood after all. Looking at the base, if the base has shoulders into the vertical section, any failure would be a shear tear, not very likely.
If you are concerned about tipping, just looking at the center of mass from the end I would think you would have to almost have this almost over before it falls.
Again, maybe you could elaborate on your concerns. And frankly that is one heavy table, you will have to move it to clean and such. If you ever have to relocate consider how difficult it will be to lift, load, and reposition, especially if stairs are involved.
Good luck with your project!
This is an awesome design and would support even a stone tabletop. The added weight of the 2 inches thick will add stability if you keep the same overhang of the top relative to the base, I would go from the 20 inch overhang to 24 on the ends to give the design a better balance and more legroom. Since the top is considerably thicker than the Soto table, I would redraw a side view to adapt the proportions to the thicker tabletop, probably ending with larger stock for the trestle.
First question, just because it's not obviously stated, is this wood properly dry now? At 2 inches thick and of that size, air dried it would take probably a year or 2 to actually properly dry.
Theoretically, I think that as long as it's balanced out properly, that design should be able to accommodate a thicker top without too much issue. However, you may want to up to dimensions a bit for a couple reasons, specifically the cross supports and stretchers if nothing else. Reason being, first, for accommodating the extra weight (just to be on the safe side), but if for no other reason than proportions.
I don't think you need to overbuild it to accommodate that size of top - just look at some of the Nakashima style tables that have huge thick tops. However, you're almost doubling the thickness of the top which may look a bit odd. if you are after that aesthetic, you're more likely to get to where you are going by making the legs, stretchers and everything else proportional to the top, or at least a bit closer to proportional than what they would be if you just added the muc thicker top.
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