Replies

1. 
   JeffHeath | Mar 09, 2006 04:20am | #1

   lou

   Very cool.   You need to resize your pics., and save em as jpg.s...   So more people with dial up can download them.  Nice job with the moulder.

   Jeff

   
1. 
   loucarabasi | Mar 09, 2006 04:45am | #2

   Thanks, I was just proud of myself

   -Lou

1. 
   JeffHeath | Mar 09, 2006 05:11am | #3

   Coming up with terrific ideas to overcome obstacles is what it's all about.  You should be proud.

   Jeff

2. 
   QCInspector | Mar 09, 2006 12:37pm | #4

   Nicely done. I haven't had the need to try that with mine yet, but it does set one to thinking. Hope you don't mind a few questions.

   What do you think the minimum radius that could be safely worked before there was a problem with feed roller slippage? And what is the radius of the one pictured? Also got to ask while I'm at it. How long a molding will it make before the tip hits the floor? (Understanding that the molder can be put on a higher bench/stand to go longer.)

   Have you ever tried or given thought to making a concave molding with the W&H? If so what do you think the minimum radius for that would be?

   When that molding is installed it would be nice to see a picture of how it turned out. Thanks.

1. 
   loucarabasi | Mar 10, 2006 05:15am | #5

   Qc, the radius I was using was 52inches. with Convex you would have to adjust the rollers all the way up. I have extra green rollers that are worn and I plan on turning them smaller on my lathe and then using them on convex curves. I have a long bed on my table I think if removed it and made a tighter radius bed I could do a tighter radius. Just make sure you make your stock 20'' longer becouse of the snipe. What you have to do is feed the stock and when the stock just touches the outfeed roller, shut the machine off and adjust  the back roller to touch the stock with good pressure. Dont forget to relieve some of the material on the stock to make the piece cut better.

   I'll send pictures tomorrow. I have the top done.      The piece came out of the machine perfect. I was suprised

   -Lou

   Edited 3/9/2006 9:17 pm ET by loucarabasi

2. 
   loucarabasi | Mar 10, 2006 05:24am | #6

   Qc, I was thinking that If we knew a few reliable guys. we could have a knife swap thing going. I have about 35 knives. 1/2 stock profiles the other 1/2 custom profiles. They get pretty costly as you know. we could let one and other swap and borrow knives. UPS Them.

   Unless your rich and dont care. What do you think?

   -Lou

1. 
   QCInspector | Mar 10, 2006 12:56pm | #7

   In your post 6 you said you start the machine and then turn it off to set the outfeed roller. The thought occurred to me that if you placed the uncut stock on the curved table without any knives in the cutter head, it could be lowered to the correct thickness and then adjust the outfeed roller pressure. Idea good, bad, waste of time?It also occurred to me that if you put a feather board or a roller (skateboard wheels?) over your table at the front machine, it might hold the molding so that you wouldn't loose that first foot and a half to snipe. Again, good bad, waste of time?Your idea of a "Cutter Lending Library" is a great one. I ain't rich by any means, but if you look at my profile you'll see that I live on the other coast and over the 49th. Sending stuff over the Border may end up with brokerage fees in each direction along with the shipping fees. It certainly is worth a look into though, and I'm sure that there must be others that would go for it. I've been entertaining the idea of making a blade grinding setup as the only option of getting affordable blades. It's down the list of my gonna makes though. I have a buddy that wants to make moldings for his house so he sprung for a 4" crown set and for a door casing set. He gets to use my machine and I get the blades. That gives me 5 sets for my meager collection (2 picture frame and 1 panel raising).

1. 
   loucarabasi | Mar 10, 2006 01:54pm | #8

   QC, I think we can come up with some clever ways to deal with the infeed and outfeed rollers. Heck lets build an auxillary roller sytem that would mount just outside of the machine that was geare into the machine. As far as the blade swapping jig, I guess it would be expensive for shipping in your area.

   -Lou

   I'll send those pictures too

1. 
   QCInspector | Mar 10, 2006 09:40pm | #9

   If it's time to add geared auxiliary feed rollers, then someone might as well go whole hog and make the table in the jig feature variable radius like a compass plane.Oh! If the variable radius table twists at the same time then the option exists to make spiral handrails for stairs too.If this is kept up the end result will be the same as our W & H becoming like the $250 router that's mounted in a $1500+ router table. Still only doing the work that a few simple, effective jigs like the one that you started with does. ;-)I think you still have a great idea for the blade lending and should try it as a new post in here and over in Breaktime and see if it will fly.

2. 
   loucarabasi | Mar 11, 2006 02:57pm | #10

   Qc, The only thing that worries me, is that the other person would not take care of the knife as well as I would. I'm gonna try it, maybe ship empty foam filled boxes to everyone who wants to be involved. Sh%t sometimes I dont use my machine for a month sometimes. I would not mind lending a knife out if It could help them out and myself.

   -LMC

3. 
   QCInspector | Mar 11, 2006 09:20pm | #11

   I had the same concerns about the returned condition of the knifes too. A run of 2000 feet of MDF is going to be a lot tougher on them than 50 feet of Mahogany. Perhaps a "membership fee" or refundable "returned in good condition" fee to cover the cost of sharpening when abused or replacement if they're not returned in the agreed time. It would be great if a knife maker would offer some kind of lending/rental service.

4. 
   loucarabasi | Mar 12, 2006 12:29am | #12

   QC, I would pay 25 bucks for a rental. would it hurt the companies knife business though?  It would be like netflix

   -Lou

5. 
   loucarabasi | Mar 12, 2006 10:15pm | #13

   QC, here are the pictures of the radius for the back bar counter top. The top is a cherry veneer and I had to seem it in two places becouse I did not want to break a seem at the sink cutout

   -Lou

   
6. 
   QCInspector | Mar 13, 2006 04:43am | #14

   That looks great. I didn't realize it was for a countertop. I thought when the thread started that it was to go on a curved wall as some chair rail or similar. Thanks for the look.