Replies

1. 
   joinerswork | Mar 14, 2009 03:29am | #1

   dowel,

   I use DAP brand painter's putty for glazing.  I color it to match the finished wood of the door with universal tinting colors, and re-thicken the putty to working consistancy by adding commercial whiting (brand I use is Rainbow).

   Ray

1. 
   dowelman | Mar 14, 2009 03:39am | #2

   Hey Ray,Thanks for the info. What ratio of whiting do you use for thickening the putty. Also, I thought painters putty was already pretty thick; or am I thinking of something else? Another question, how long does this take to dry to the point that I can apply a lacquer finish to the doors?Mike

   Edited 3/13/2009 8:53 pm ET by dowelman

1. 
   joinerswork | Mar 14, 2009 05:38pm | #3

   Mike,

   What ratio of whiting do you use for thickening the putty.

   It is a case of "quantity sufficient".  Hard to say, as it will vary with how much of the tinting colors you end up using.

   Also, I thought painters putty was already pretty thick; or am I thinking of something else?

   It is thick as it comes in the can.  The tinting colors are a thick liquid, about like mustard, and adding them "thins" the putty.  So, to make it workable with a putty knife, you need to add the whiting to get back to a firm consistancy.  Remarkably, although the whiting is white (who'd a thought that?), adding it only marginally changes the color of the tinted putty. Coloring putty is a trial and error thing.

   Another question, how long does this take to dry to the point that I can apply a lacquer finish to the doors?

   Apply your finish first, then glaze the doors.  The putty knife will leave a semi-glossy surface, and there is no need for finish on the putty.

   The putty will skin over in a couple days in a warm environment, and the glass and door frame can be carefully cleaned as soon as that, with a razor scraper (on the glass) and steel wool (on the wood).  But it takes weeks to fully cure.

   Ray

    

    

2. 
   KeithNewton | Mar 16, 2009 03:47am | #4

   Since it is a cupboard, I would rip some stops then brad them in to hold the glass. I think it would be easier. But then I am a wood-worker, not a glazer. Save that putty glaze for outside windows.

   If it is a nice old piece, I would suggest that you try finding some seedy-antique glass to replace it with. The flaws will make it look more authentic.

1. 
   dowelman | Mar 16, 2009 06:14am | #5

   Keith,I am restoring this for a client and she wants it back to orginal condition. Just trying to satisfy the customer. I have aquired some glass from a house built in the late 1800's and will use it. I have to remove the panes from the old windows but not too much of a problem.Mike

3. 
   billy5151 | Mar 18, 2009 07:55pm | #6

   I know it's been a few days since you started this discussion, but I just wanted to throw my 2 cents in. My Dad owned a hardware store in the late 40's up thru the 1960's and I remember the glazing coming in a 5 gallon metal bucket. When anyone wanted some glazing me or one of my brothers would open the bucket and mix the oil that had separated from the glazing. It was almost a clay-like mixture. When it cured it was rock hard and would in a year or two start to fall out because it was not flexible. I tried to see if any of my older brothers had a clue as to the ingredients, but they could remember or didn't care what it was, they are just glad not to deal with it anymore.

   I'm restoring some older wood sash windows for a small museum and have been doing a  fair amount of glazing. It's almost getting to be a "lost art". But I'll be getting a lot more practice to get better at it since I've got (possibly) 40 more windows 6 over 6 to do. I've seen that stuff in tubes, but I'm still useing the Dapp 33 and a fexible knife. Anyway.. happy gazing!!!

   Bill D.

   "If I can turn it into saw dust, I can handle it"

1. 
   joinerswork | Mar 19, 2009 06:29am | #7

   billy,

   Mmmm, white lead and linseed oil.  Haven't seen that in years.

   Used to be a product called lithopone putty, too.

   Ray

4. 
   BOBABEUI | Mar 19, 2009 08:36pm | #8

   Dowelman,

   I would second everything that Ray Pine (aka. joinerswork) offered, with the exception that I have tinted DAP glazing putty with UTC's without adding any whiting and the consistency seemed OK to me even after the addition of the UTC's.