Replies

1. 
   jako17 | Feb 13, 2005 05:51am | #1

   Depending on the type of Windsor chair the seat could have more holes in it than swiss cheese. How long is a piece of string?  ;-)  Share a little more detail with us.

2. 
   TomS | Feb 13, 2005 07:29am | #2

   A little more information would be helpful but on my chairs the legs tenons are tapered from  3/4 to 1"+ over their length.  The holes bored for the  back posts/spindles are 5/8 to 11/16" while the arm posts are again tapered from 5/8 to 3/4 (+/-) over their length.  These aren't exact measurements but as close as I can remember.  A good working drawing would have this information.  My strings, by the way, cut to at least 36" so I can tie the ends of my bend backs and still have a bit to play with  (-:

   TomS

1. 
   87bluejay | Feb 13, 2005 08:12am | #3

   Sorry about that guys.  I'm just starting out here and I appreciate your input and patience.   I see, using Langsner's book, that once the center line is determined, you locate the holes based on the angles/degrees off the center line? However, there are no dimensions, on the center line (front to back) of the seat, to determine the "starting point" for the sight lines? How far from the front or back of the seat do these angles start? Some look like a specific distance from the front and the back. The lines that locate the holes on the "deck", also do not have a measurement from the front or back of the seat?

   Also, the layout line for the leg location, shows the lines coming off the center line, but how far to each leg?

   Thanks again for the help,

   Dave

    

1. 
   NCguy | Feb 13, 2005 08:48pm | #4

   I used a scanner to copy the the pages from the book and proceeded to enlarge to 1:1 scale. You could also go to a copy shop and have them enlarged. Transfer the paper pattern to a thin sheet of plywood for a more permanent template. Trim the plywood to the outside dimension and bore small holes at the spindle, arm stump and leg locations. I use a 3/16 bit for the spindle and arm stump holes and 1/4 for the leg holes. Place the template over the seat blank and use a pencil to lay out the hole pattern. Using this type of template allows you to reestablish the boring points for the legs after you scoop out the seat.     

1. 
   87bluejay | Feb 14, 2005 06:13am | #7

   Thanks for the information. I will definately give it a try. When you brought it to a copy shop, were they able to enlarge the text also?

   Like I said to CherryJohn, this is my first attempt at making a chair. Any recommendations on which chair I should attempt?

   Thanks again,

   Dave

1. 
   jne | Feb 14, 2005 09:21pm | #12

   hi dave,i started doing windsors about 11 yrs.ago and the very first one was a continuous arm.WRONG CHOICE!! if i were beginning now i tell people it would be nothing but a fan-back.very simplistic,very straight forward.as i continued i picked up and indeed created little nuances.as far as the legs are concerned you will develop an eye for them over time.yes, there are"standard sizes"but you will develop an eye for them and whatever appeals to you is what you should do.i do my legs at a much more severe angle than most and it appears bolder.take your time and listen to your self.usually you're right.

2. 
   cherryjohn | Feb 13, 2005 09:15pm | #5

   Ok Dave...first of all what kind of windsor are you making?  How many spindles? If you know the spindle "lean angle" as it seems you do. your concern will be the spacing between each.  If you are making a chair with 9 spindles or 7 and weather or not the chair is a high back ( turned posts supporting the edges of the crest rail) or a comb back ( no long turned posts )  the spacing is going to be different.  There are a lot of variables here.  Are you trying to make this chair from a written plan?  A good chair is one of the most difficult projects you can make ( Norm Abrams said so ) without someone there to help you with all the nuances.

   As far as leg hole dimension is concerned, there is less to worry about here.  I lay out my seats so that the front legs pass through the middle of the ridge created by the seat dish and the front edge fall off ( the thing that makes a 2" thick seat look nice and delicate) so that the leg tapered tennons have maximum wood around them.  The back legs come up through the slope in the back of the seat dish, again for maximum wood to taper fit.  The layout of the legs depends on the size seat of course.  Exactly where the legs get set is really a matter of how it looks.Wicked Decent Woodworks

   Rochester NH

   " If the women dont find you handsome, they should at least find you handy........yessa!"

1. 
   87bluejay | Feb 14, 2005 06:09am | #6

   Well, this will by my first one. Any recommendations on which one should I start with? I was looking at all the plans when I noticed my issue. I want to plan everything out before I start.

   Thanks for the feedback.

    

   Dave

1. 
   cherryjohn | Feb 14, 2005 03:10pm | #8

   Have you ever thought about taking a class from one of the many available?  Where do you live?  The spindle placement and the leg placement is one of the easier aspects of making a windsor and if you have concerns about this maybe you should look at a some instruction before you get totally frustrated with this project

    Wicked Decent Woodworks

   Rochester NH

   " If the women dont find you handsome, they should at least find you handy........yessa!"

2. 
   87bluejay | Feb 14, 2005 04:24pm | #9

   Yes, I tried to take one at Woodcraft, but it was cancelled because "lack of interest".  I was hoping to figure it out with all the resources out there.

   Thanks for your help,

   Dave

3. 
   bleubassplyr | Feb 14, 2005 04:49pm | #10

   Check out Make a Windsor Chair with Michael Dunbar. It has everything you're asking about and more.

   There are more old drunkards than old doctors.  Ben Franklin

1. 
   87bluejay | Feb 14, 2005 08:35pm | #11

   Will do. His book seems to be at the top of all the chairmaking books written.

   Just trying to find it is another story. It's been out of print for some time.

    

   Thanks,

   Dave