Replies

1. 
   Jimma | Mar 23, 2006 04:14pm | #1

   Have you already gone ahead with this, or is a comment still appropriate? Are you talking about a table-top unit or something for a wine cellar?

1. 
   [email protected] | Mar 23, 2006 04:27pm | #2

   No, I haven't started yet. I have been hired to make a wine rack that will fit into a carcase over the top of a refridgerator. I'll build the carecase and then fit a wine rack into it. The customers want a "diamond shape" wine rack. I was thinking about setting up a dado set for 3/4" , setting up a crosscut sled for a dado every four inches, cutting my board with dado's 3/8" deep (for a half lap joint) and then making up two grids-I guess I'm in the concept stage...any other ideas???

1. 
   Jimma | Mar 23, 2006 04:46pm | #3

   OK, I get it now. I don't have any experience with that approach. I've only built larger wine storage, but you might consider having the openings larger than four inches as there are many variations in the sizes of wine bottles. Ask your client about what they have in mind for bottle diameters or go to a wine merchant and sk them if you can measure a selection of bottles before you start cutting -- then tell the client what you've found. Maybe they only drink white zinfandel from one producer, or something. Once you settle on a size for the openings, make a mockup with scrap wood to prove the concept and get the OK from the client. Dados would work OK. Also, I think storing wine on top of a fridge is not a good idea as that is where the heat builds up. Very bad for wine.

2. 
   papanick | Mar 27, 2006 04:33am | #9

   I've built 4 freestanding units like that.

   I set up a dado to 3/4" and raised it to full height, set up a stop, and used my mitre gauge to run half laps. Pieces created a torsion box effect when slipped together (think the dividers in a beer case...)

   Whole grid resides in dovetailed carcass on a base.

   Works great. The older I get, the better I was....

1. 
   [email protected] | Mar 27, 2006 03:21pm | #12

   thanks

2. 
   Steinmetz | Mar 25, 2006 06:46pm | #4

   Luke, You can do that with a router but the dados will have radioused corners.
   No prob, just make then a 'tad' bit past the center line.
   Make a flat template with guides spaced to contain the router base plus the appropiate spacing for depth and width . I made lot's of shelving this way with vertical dividers along the width and/or equal or special sized compartments. Steinmetz

1. 
   [email protected] | Mar 26, 2006 03:05pm | #7

   Do you get much tearout in routing your dadoes this way?

1. 
   Steinmetz | Mar 26, 2006 06:49pm | #8

   No tearout, because, for a 3/4" dado, I used a 1/2" router bit
   and routed (between controlled stops) using a clockwise motion
   and plunging a few depths at a time.(Used a Sharp bit.)

   The stops are rails of lattice strip 1/4"

   diameter of Router base = 6"
   Router bit=1/2"
   Dado width= 3/4"
   Spacing between stops/strips 6-1/4"For thinner material adjust the spacing to
   accommodate smaller bits and clearanceMaybe tomorrow, I'll send a sketch?
   Ran out of ink, but expect delivery tomorrow.
   Steinmetz.

   Edited 3/26/2006 11:51 am ET by Steinmetz

1. 
   [email protected] | Mar 27, 2006 03:36pm | #13

   Do you think it would be less work with a tablesaw and dado set?

1. 
   Steinmetz | Mar 27, 2006 08:16pm | #14

   luke, Unless you build a complicated jig (Similar to a box joint fixture) and various stop blocks, I think the router jig is more adaptive and SAFER because you tack down the jig to each shelf section and can do repetitive pieces in short order. Also wider or narrower 'cubbies'if desired. By routing at incremental depths, you can control any 'tearout' Steinmetz

2. 
   [email protected] | Mar 28, 2006 02:53pm | #15

   can you point me in the direction of a good dado cutting jig for the router-I have seen ( but not yet built) the jig that looks like a rectangle wide enough to accomdate the router that gets clamped to the work-is that what you use?

3. 
   Steinmetz | Mar 28, 2006 05:25pm | #16

   The jig I use is wholly hand made
   You must be talking about a jig for a router table? Mine is for a hand held router It consists of a length of Masonic longer and deeper than the proposed shelf component' The horizontal shelves should be cut to length before hand
   (Also, the vertical dividers to their lengths) The Masonic should be about four inches (or more) wider and longer.Attached to the bottom of the 'template', are four strips of 1x2 furring strip. They are positioned to snugly fit over the shelf and 'capture' the shelf (Much like a cover on a shoe box)At the center line of the horizontal shelf component, mark the template for the first dado. Depending on the size of the router bit used, (And the thickness of the shelf material,) add two (R & L)perpendicular strips of 1/4" lattice strips tacked in place and accurately squared .If the proposed material requires a 3/4" dado, and you use a 1/2" router bit, and the router base is six inches in diameter,
   space the left and right lattice strips exactly 3-1/8" to each side of center line. The space now, becomes 6-1/4" With the template in place over the shelf blank, place a flat sacrificial panel under the set up.
   ( Since the router will cut all the way through the material, this will protect your work bench)You must tack a length of lattice strip as a 'stop' at a point where the stopped dado reaches a 'tad' beyond the center of depth of the shelf (Try first, with scraps for a good fit) When ready, set the router bit to extend about 3/8" below the router's base
   With the router turned on, enter(Point A) along the LH lattice and continue to the 'stop'(Point B)
   Continue clock wise to the RH lattice,(Point C) NOW in order to not create tear out, enter the left lattice (Point D) only a quarter inch and back out. It is safe now to to back track to where you stopped and,in a clockwise fashion A to B to C to D and complete the stopped dado
   you will have excised 1/4" of the shelf's thickness, so, extend the bit from the base to 5/8" and repeat as before.
   The final depth should be 7/8+"

   If more divisions are required, measure from the center again and install the additional lattice borders in the same manner. Save that template for future shelves SteinmetzEdited 3/28/2006 10:43 am ET by Steinmetz

   Edited 3/28/2006 10:57 am ET by Steinmetz

4. 
   [email protected] | Mar 28, 2006 11:05pm | #17

   thanks-I'll give it a try on my next occasion

3. 
   bleubassplyr | Mar 26, 2006 04:14am | #5

   You may want to let your clients know that storing wine above a refrigerator is not a good place for it. Wine should be stored in a cool place. It can get pretty warm above a 'fridge.

   There are more old drunkards than old doctors.  Ben Franklin

1. 
   [email protected] | Mar 26, 2006 02:51pm | #6

   thanks...I'll pass it on

4. 
   Hainesportwoodworker | Mar 27, 2006 05:33am | #10

   I know this is a woodworking forum, but I might suggest buying these grids already assembled - egads - If you are a professional, like me, it will be cheaper in the end. I purchase mine from Outwater Plastics in New Jersey. I believe they are available in a multitude of woods and sizes - Im usually purchasing Cherry.

   I would second the earlier post - storing wine above the fridge is a really really bad idea. We have built a few wine cellars over the years and that is going to be far from optimal storage conditions with the heat from the coils on the fridge.

1. 
   [email protected] | Mar 27, 2006 03:19pm | #11

   thank you-I'll see if I can find a listing for Outwater Plastics and check out price.