Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 16, 2006 12:56am | #1

   Yes.  That's why companies like wipe-on.  They get to sell mineral spirits at varnish prices. 

1. 
   ctsjr | Oct 16, 2006 09:14pm | #5

   So how much mineral spirits do I add to thin down the brush on poly for wiping?  Tom"Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 16, 2006 09:21pm | #6

   The typical recommendation calls for mixing them 1:1.  It's not critical at all.  I personally don't thin quite that much so that the coats build a bit faster.  At the customary ratio it takes about 3 wipe on coats to equal 1 brushed on coat. 

1. 
   ctsjr | Oct 16, 2006 11:21pm | #7

   Thank you.  I get better results with a wipe on finish than brush on, and I like several thin coats as opposed to a few thicker coats.  Tom"Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"

1. 
   Gretchen | Oct 17, 2006 03:52pm | #10

   I like several thin coats as opposed to a few thicker coats.

   You may not have meant what I infer from your post, but you will need many coats (not several) of wipe on to build an adequate finish.  Eight is my usual for a table top. The first few coats do not look good at all but persevere. And you are right on--easier application for a better looking finish.Gretchen

2. 
   ctsjr | Oct 17, 2006 04:03pm | #11

   Right.  I restored the tops on my sons ranch oak dresser and chest of drawers with a wipe on poly as the finish.  It took 6 coats to get it where it looked decent.  I put on another coat for good measure.  For a table top, I would use at least 8.  I just didn't realize that wipe on poly was regular poly thinned down.  Thanks.  Tom"Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"

3. 
   pins | Oct 17, 2006 06:23pm | #12

   I also prefer the look of a wiped-on finish, but the process of wiping
   on many coats wastes a lot of time.I also like many thinner coats but I brush on as many slightly thicker coats as I think I need, sanding with 220 or 320 no-load between, and then, if lucky, only have to wipe the final coat w/no more sanding. I use new flannel that has been laundered at least twice. Sometimes a light application of 0000 steel wool, but I avoid it if I can and go straight to rottenstone with 50/50 parafin oil and mineral spirits.John

2. 
   nikkiwood | Oct 16, 2006 02:21am | #2

   Yes, absolutely.

   There are lots of smoke and mirrors in the coatings business.......

   ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

3. 
   MikeHennessy | Oct 16, 2006 02:11pm | #3

   Hmmm. Despite the other replys that wipe-on is just regular poly thinned, the wipe-on I use is actually thicker than regular poly. Almost a gel. Can't get there by thinning normal poly.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 16, 2006 03:00pm | #4

   Gel finishes are a different matter.  They contain a thixotropic material that has the effect of liquifying under the mechanical pressure of application. 

4. 
   user-196729 | Oct 17, 2006 02:09am | #8

   The 50/50 rule is a good guideline for poly, if you want to hand rub a finish.  Sometimes a little less Mineral spirits works ok too.  With this mix you can apply at least four coats on in a day.  The big difference is the thickness of the coats, and the flatness of the finish.  No more brush-marks and a flat finish mean less sanding between coats or using steel wool.  Be sure to use a smooth cotton rag to put the finish on, an old tee-shirt can be recycled to do this job.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 17, 2006 01:05pm | #9

   You have outlined the case for wipe-on finishes.  Let me add the drawback.  This is the extreme difficulty of rubbing out a wipe-on.  There is so little film thickness that it is very hard to remove dust nibs or the like without cutting through the final coat.  If you do cut through, you run the risk of having visible "witness" lines that look a bit like the lines on a topographic map. 

   Personally, I think 4 coats are a bit much for a single day, unless the brushing finish itself allowed recoating after a less than overnight wait.  I would stop at no more than 3 per day, which is about the equivelent of one brushed on coat in total thickness.  That way I worry less about the curing (not just the evaporation of the solvent) getting ahead of the film thickness.  I don't want to shut off lower coats from oxygen with later coats until the cure is more complete.