Replies

1. 
   Mcfarmer | Oct 06, 2012 10:04pm | #1

   I use that mix on many projects. I don't have a separate finishing area and I like it because I can wipe the dust with a rag dampened with the mix, then wipe dry. I think it gives a little more build-up than something like Watco, which I also use on larger projects. I use the varnish/linseed mix on things such as frames and things that won't get much surface wear. Maybe it hardens as well as Watco, but I don't know.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Oct 07, 2012 10:09am | #2

   The first is called a thinned or wiping varnish.  When the thinner evaporates, you are left with a standard varnish film finish.

   The second is an oil/varnish mixture.  It's basically "Danish Oil", or sometimes known as "Tung Oil Finish".  It is a penetrating finsh that leaves the look and feel of the wood.  It is not as protective or durable as a film varnish finish.

   Here is something I wrote a number of years ago that may help understanding the various "oil" finishes.

   There are two "true" oils used in finishing. One is linseed oil which comes from flax seeds. The second is tung oil Which comes from a nut tree that originally grew in China. Both are called drying oils although neither really fully dries and becomes hard. The primary use of both is in manufacturing oil based finishes.

   A product that is a true tung oil will have a label that says either "pure" or "100%". If it doesn't say that on the label, IT ISN'T TRUE TUNG OIL. Forget about all the other baloney and look for one of those two words if you want to use a true tung oil. If the label contains any other chemicals, except a thinner, you are not getting a true tung oil. Real tung oil has acquired a cachet in the past twenty years that seems to elevate it to some type of magic potion. In fact, as a finish, it does not offer anything much different than linseed oil. In spite of the hype, it is not significantly more water resistant than linseed oil--both are lousy--nor is it any more durable. Used alone both are fairly inferior "finishes". About the only difference is that tung oil is slightly less amber than linseed oil but it also is slightly less effective at "popping" the grain. By most measures, it is not significantly different from linseed oil.

   "Tung Oil Finish" is a marketing expression for products that the manufacturer thinks will give you a finish like the finish you get from a true tung oil. These "Tung Oil Finishes" may or may not contain some true tung oil, but most do not contain any true tung oil. Their only claim to the use of the word "tung" is that they claim to give the appearance of finish that results from true tung oil. You're buying a "faux tung oil finish". Similarly, "Danish Oil" is a marketing expression for an finish that gives the appearance of the Scandinavian furniture of the 1950'a and 60's.

   There are two types of "tung oil finishes". One is mixture of varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits (called an oil/varnish mixture). The exact mixtures are proprietary (more oil means a softer finish. More varnish means more protection and durability). Some manufacturers add a dollop of drier to speed up the drying. If you want make your own, mix equal parts of boiled linseed oil, varnish and mineral spirits which will make a nice finish. This same mixture is frequently also called "Danish Oil". It closely mimics a true oil finish but the addition of the varnish resins gives it more durability and protection. These finishes are designed to be a complete finishing system. They are not intended to be over-coated with a film finish. When you do so, you are destroying the look and feel of the finish. For the most part, "Tung Oil Finish" and "Danish Oil" are identical. They are both oil/varnish mixtures.

   Here are some oil/varnish mixtures:(*)

   Deft Danish Oil

   General Finishes' Seal a Cell

   Behlen Danish Oil

   Maloof Finish (contains pure tung oil and linseed oil)

   Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish

   Minwax Tung Oil Finish

   Minwax Antique Oil Finish

   Velvit Oil

   Watco Danish Oil

   Liberon Finishing Oil ((contains pure tung oil and linseed oil)

   McCloskey Tung Oil Finish (contains pure tung oil, no linseed oil)

   The second "tung oil finish" is one made from varnish and mineral spirits. The approximate ratio is 1:1. This is really just a thinned varnish just like the stuff sold as "wiping varnish". When one two or three coats are applied, it also mimics the finish produced by a true oil but it is harder than the oil/varnish above because it does not have as much oil. It is slightly more protective than the oil/varnish type or tung oil finish. For all intents and purposes it is a varnish finish.

   Here are some thinned varnishes:(*)

   Minway Wiping Varnish

   Watco Wiping Varnish

   Formby's Tung Oil Finish

   Zar Wipe-on Tung Oil

   Val-Oil

   Hope's Tung Oil Varnish

   Gillespie Tung Oil

   Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish

   General Finishes' Arm R Seal

   Jasco Tung Oil

   Here is one that is a polymerized linseed oil.(*)

   Tried&True Danish Oil.

   (*) Courtesy Bob Flexner and some personal information.

   NOTE: this list if fairly old now (2010) and some products are no longer manufacturered.

   One way to tell whether the product is an oil/varnish or a wiping varnish is to read the application instructions. Oil/varnishes are applied, then given some time to set, then wiped dry. Wiping varnish products are wiped on an left to dry (no wiping off).

   Finally, I'm not disparaging any of these products. In fact, they are a more protective and durable finish than any pure oil finish. They are what they are and can give you a very nice close-to-the-wood finish when properly applied and not over-coated with a film finish.