For several years I have been using a homemade wiping varnish consisting of equal parts Tung Oil, BLO, polyurethane and Mineral Sprits.<!—-> <!—-><!—->
<!—-> <!—->
I wipe it on liberally, let set it sit for a while for the solvent to flash off, and polish to remove any excess mix. Frankly it looks pretty good, but course it does take 5-6 coats. I would like to try a commercial oil varnish mix like Waterlox. From I have seen, you apply it either with a brush or wipe it on with rag. You then let to dry like a typical surface finish.<!—-> <!—->
<!—-> <!—->
In my shop dust nibs are fact of life and these slow drying finishes are a problem. Has anyone ever applied Waterlox in the same way, apply let it set and polish?<!—-> <!—->
<!—-> <!—->
I would prefer something that has a bit more durability the my mix, but other that it’s a commercial product and has a rather nice look and feel, is there any advantage, or would this simply be a waste of material?
<!—-> <!—->
Neil<!—-> <!—->
Replies
Neil,
I'll give you my $.02 worth, I'm kinda surprised the experts have not seen your post yet. I have applied the Waterlox as you describe and it works fine...however, you do need to apply 5-6 coats and leave for a day between applications. I don't see any real advantage to your home brew and with the Waterlox anything left in the can is crap in a few months(maybe 6).
I've tried the minwax wipe on satin and that provides a nice 'Watco' type finish...a little less rugged 'look' than the Waterlox type finish(that's look..not necessarily in fact). Again, this could be home brewed also
I won't set myself up as an expert but with the "equal parts" of all your ingredients you only have 25% varnish in the brew of what is essentially a kind of oil/varnish mixture=Watco. This type of finish is not very durable and actually is quite soft. six coats might equal only one coat of a 50/50 wiping varnish. Tung oil and BLO are essentially the same ingredient. A better wiping varnish is 50/50 mix of varnish and mineral spirits. Six to eight coat of this will give a durable finish.
>> I would like to try a commercial oil varnish mix like Waterlox
I'm not sure what Waterlox product you are referring to. "Waterlox" is a brand name of a family of products which include non-poly varnishes, poly varnishes and some specialty products. Go here to see their product line:
http://www.waterlox.com/desktopmodules/fathomecom/catalog/Category.aspx?TabID=424
I'll guess you may be referring to their Original Sealer/Finish. This product is intended for both a stand alone finish and an undercoat for their other products. It can be applied by brush or wiping. It can be either just wiped on or it can be wiped on and then the excess wiped off. It is an oil heavy product the is sort of between a wiping varnish and an oil/varnish mixture. It tends to leave a rather soft surface and is less durable than their other varnishes. When used as a wipe-on/wipe-off finish, it will provide a relatively even less durable finish. It's also quite expensive using it this way.
If all you want to do it use a commercial oil/varnish product, there are lots to choose from. Here's a list:
Deft Danish Oil
General Finishes' Sealacell
Behlen Danish Oil
Maloof Finish
Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish
Minwax Tung Oil Finish
Minwax Antique Oil Finish
Velvit Oil
Watco Danish Oil
McCloskey Tung Oil Finish (contains pure tung oil, not linseed oil)
With the exception of McCloskey's, none of the above contain any real tung oil. All are pretty similar in application and performance.
Howie.........
Edited 6/9/2006 11:54 am ET by HowardAcheson
Howe,<!----><!----><!---->
<!----> <!---->
I was referring to the original finish.<!----><!---->
<!----> <!---->
So what you are saying is that most of these wipe on finishes, including the homemade version, are likely to similar except perhaps for the cost (Waterlox is pushing $20 a quart)<!----><!---->
<!----> <!---->
Neil<!----><!---->
>> So what you are saying is that most of these wipe on finishes, including the homemade version, are likely to similar except perhaps for the cost
They are similar in that they all contain a drying oil (almost always BLO), a resin or varnish, and a thinner. Each tends to have their own formula but you can make a very good facimile by mixing equal parts of varnish or poly varnish, BLO and mineral spirits. Most of the differences are in the words of their marketing departments, not in the performance.Howie.........
"With the exception of McCloskey's, none of the above contain any real tung oil. All are pretty similar in application and performance."
Howie,
I thought that the Maloof finish does contain Tung oil and BLO, I do smell Tung oil when I use the Maloof mix. At least I think it's Tung oil I smell.
Thanks,
Dale
Yes, it is advertized that it does. My list was primarily taken from some work by Bob Flexner who I usually give attribution. Sorry for that omission.Howie.........
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled