This is my first time working with an epoxy pour-on finish. Unfortunately, while sanding it down, I have noticed some witness lines where I did not achieve a full level coat. My question is will these lines disappear as I plan on sanding/rubbing/polishing the surface to a high gloss? Or will the lines remain and I simply have to apply a complete new surface?
Thx!
Replies
I'm not sure I know what you mean by "witness lines". Witness lines are generally associated with oxidized film finishes like varnish. They occur where multiple coats of finish are applied and sanding through one coat leaves a mark where the two coats originally met.
With a pour-on finish, this shouldn't happen. Did you first level the surface with a level? Did you pour it on all at one time? Any I have done, where all poured at one time and there could be no separation between multiple coats.
If they are truly witness lines, they will not disappear with polishing. In fact, they will likely become more obvious.
A little more info would be helpful.
Sorry for not clarifying Howie. When I had applied the epoxy, the first coat went on but some areas, such as the knots, absorded more liquid than others and therefore let an uneven surface. I tried to "fix" just those areas by simply filling them in and leveling them with additional product without reapplying a coat to the entire surface. Hence, the result has been what I consider "witness" lines, or a shiny outline of the irregular fluid distribution between the original surface and the patch work.I hope that makes better sense. Thx!
"100 Years" -- scribbled on the wall by a woodworker to remind him to do his best and as a warranty on his work -- "If anything I make fails in the first hundred years, bring it back, and I'll take care of it. After that, there will be a small charge. (Original purchaser only)"
Then you do have true witness lines and polishing won't remove them, exactly as Howie said. You should be able to eliminate them by applying a coat that covers the entire area, and which will not be cut through in rubbing out the surface. You may want to do some heavy sanding to at least partially level the surface and keep the epoxy thickness from getting out of hand. If it's more than a day or two you should also sand the entire surface so the next coat will have a mechanical key for bonding.
Well, not what I wanted to hear but I guess what I expected to hear. Do I really have to worry about the mechanical bond of epoxy to a clean surface and hence, sand it for adhesion?Thanks.
"100 Years" -- scribbled on the wall by a woodworker to remind him to do his best and as a warranty on his work -- "If anything I make fails in the first hundred years, bring it back, and I'll take care of it. After that, there will be a small charge. (Original purchaser only)"
Steve and I agree that polishing will not help. The only solution is to level the surface by sanding and then pour-on another coat. Be sure the tabletop is level so the material ends up level.Howie.........
Thanks Howie. This has been one of those tough lessons :O"100 Years" -- scribbled on the wall by a woodworker to remind him to do his best and as a warranty on his work -- "If anything I make fails in the first hundred years, bring it back, and I'll take care of it. After that, there will be a small charge. (Original purchaser only)"
Edited 6/23/2006 11:06 am by zombeerose
Before epoxy cures it will bond to itself. The window varies from epoxy to epoxy. After it cures, it is like varnish, it needs something to hold on to. Only requires a light 320 grit sanding.
Wow! I didn't realize that. Thanks for the info :)
"100 Years" -- scribbled on the wall by a woodworker to remind him to do his best and as a warranty on his work -- "If anything I make fails in the first hundred years, bring it back, and I'll take care of it. After that, there will be a small charge. (Original purchaser only)"
I don't know nothin'! BUT if ya pore on somethin' liquid that is clear it acts like my 16" Telescope! MAGNIFY' Everything it sees!
Not on a large, flat surface, WillGeorge. A poured, transparent material might asume a convex surface curve on a small area, especially if the space is round, but it doesn't sound like these guys have a magnifying problem ... unless they want one, of course.
Pete
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