After searching the Web for suggestions on finishing an unfinished oak countertop, most sources talk about the monthly mineral oil treatment. One source sent me to the Waterlox site.
I’ve reread Chris Minick’s “Wipe-on Finish Test” (FWW July/August 2005) which was interesting but doesn’t address countertops specifically.
What opinions do you have on finishing countertops, in general, and mineral oil vs. Waterlox specifically?
Thanks
Wood River WoodWorrker
Replies
Where is this counter top being used? Will it be used as a food prep surface? Will things be cut or chopped on it? Will hot pots be put on it? Is it red oak or white oak?
I think oak is going to be problematic, red or white. A lot of grain/pore.
For Oak imo you will need to use a barrier type of finish not an open finish like from oil . I say this mainly to help limit darkening especially from water spots and such . You need a tough coated finish to keep it looking decent , if you want and older more discolored look then there you go .The Tannins in the wood are problematic themselves .
dusty
Mineral oil and Waterlox pretty much represent opposite ends of the spectrum that could be used for finishing.
Mineral oil never cures, just rubs off over a fairly short time period. It may be, either by itself, or as a medium for adding parafin wax to the wood, a choice for food preparation surfaces, especially where cutting might disturb a film finish.
Waterlox is a good varnish. It ultimately forms a film on the surface of the wood. Film finishes aren't good to cut on--once breached water can enter at the film can peel off. But for surfaces that aren't used for cutting or similar activities, a varnish coating can offer substantial water resistance, as well as a good look.
So it is crucial to specify exactly how the wood counter will be used. And, as others have mentioned oak has draw backs, especially red oak.
Thanks to all for the info.
I'm getting 8/4 boards from a wood salvage place. Apparently these boards will be cut from old warehouse beams from Ohio or Kentucky so I don't know if it will be red or white oak. I realize red has more problems than white. From other boards I looked at, mine may well have nail stains and other "character." The sections of counter I'll be using them for won't be near the sink or the stove so there should be limited exposure to heat or water and most cutting will be done on a section of butcher block near the stove.
I'm leaning toward Waterlox to minimize the fussing with the monthly oiling with the caveat that cutting or scratching that penetrates the finish will cause problems.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled