Currently reading about how wood moves and what procedures are in place to stop wood from moving when building an outdoor table. Ie attaching the table top to the apron legs etc.
If I was to build a laundry countertop made from hardwood, say 600mm depth and 2000mm long would I apply the same principles when attaching to the carcase or can I just screw the carcase to the countertop and been done with it.
<!—-><!—-> <!—->
What about a finishing product applied to the wood, given the countertop may attract water from time to time.
<!—-> <!—->
Regards
Boyd
Replies
Wood will move no matter the application. Of course, an outdoor table is going to undergo a greater degree of change because it is exposed to such harsh elements. To this end, you should always consider wood movement when attaching a large slab (tabletop) to a carcase.
Screwing the carcase to the underside of the tabletop is a fine solution, but a good technique that will allow for movement is to drill elongated holes to capture one set of screws. This allows the tabletop to be secure at one end but still move laterally at the other.
In short, screw one side (the back is fine) and screw the front with elongated holes and you should be good to go.
Here's a great article we published with methods for Attaching Tabletops.
Matt Berger
Fine Woodworking
Boyds,
Do you want advice on how to attach a wood tabletop or a countertop in your laundry?
I think Matt's advice about fastening a table top to aprons is fine, but I'd do the opposite to his advice to fasten a wood countertop to laundry cabinets. I prefer to tightly fasten the front edge of the countertop to the front of the cabinets, and then fasten the back of the countertop with slotted holes in the cabinet. I'd leave about 1/4" between the back of the countertop and the wall, and then cover it with a 3/4-inch back splash. This allows for movement where it won't be seen, and maintains the same desired overhang in front of the cabinet. There's a granite backsplash siliconed to the 28" deep countertop in the attached photo.
Gary W
gwwoodworking.com
Thanks for clarifying Gary. I was trying to explain a similar approach to yours; where I went wrong was in regards to the side to fasten securely. you're correct, though, fastening the front and letting the back move sounds like a better approach.
Yeah, Matt. It really doesn't matter much, because wood movement can be pretty minor and almost unnoticeable on face frame cabinet fronts with a 3/4" countertop overhang. But on one like that in my photo, I remember calculating it to be as much as 3/16-inch! And I'm guessing Boyds' laundry countertop might be deep too, to account for the depth of most laundry appliances.Gary W
gwwoodworking.com
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled