All,
I’m curious about how you folks use files and what kind of array you work with. This is a subject I have put off studing because there appears to be a lot to learn. Last Saturday at the auction up in NH I ran into a guy from Chicago who seemed both knowledgable and anxious to share….but with a potential of 56 chisels needed …and that is just the swiss chisels…I thought it’s time to learn something.
Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated
Replies
Files come in a bewildering assortment of sizes and shapes, but the following is what I use. Note most of these are actually meant for metal working.
10” ½ round smooth double cut .
10 Nicholson ½ round aluminum type A ( this is my favorite for quick but smooth stock removal).
10” ½ Round cabinet rasp
8” round in both bastard and smooth double cut
8” mill smooth single cut. ( for sharpening scrapers)
6” ½ round smooth doublecut
Set of mini files for small work ( such sets are made by Nicholson, Grobet, and SK among others)
Handy file in with one side single cut smooth and the other side double cut bastard. These are the type of files with the handle built in).
Last but not least a file card for cleaning.
I have always wanted, but am too cheap to buy , the Nicholson pattern makers rasps.
The cuts I have listed are what I use for working in hardwoods ( or metal) if you are using soft woods like pine, the smooth cut files probably won’t work, as they will quickly load.
Rob Millard
I'm sure there will be some who disagree, but I believe that files are seriously out of date for woodwork since good abrasives became available. If I have a tricky piece of shaping to do I make a suitably shaped piece of wood and bond some abrasive paper (sanding belt is very good) to it. Beats any file I ever tried
John
John, I agree, I have a collection of quality files that are used for metal. I can't remember the last time I used a rasp or file for wood. Only exception would be riffler files I sometimes use. I wrap paper around dowel and staple or any shape wood and staple. Works faster and better.
mike
BG-- I use any number of files and rasps, but I particularly like the Nicholson patternmaker rasps. I bought mine at least 15 years ago, and they still work very well. I don't remember what I paid for them ( I have both the 49 and 50 ), but I'm pretty sure it was a lot less than they go for now.
BG
I use both files an rasps. In certain situations they are very handy. Just used a WW file to helf clean the inside walls of a through mortice 1 1/2" wide, 4" long and 4" deep. Hard to get any other tool in that space and keep everything square.
I view files and rasp as a set of hole-diggers. Sit around dormant most of the time, but when that certain situation arises, it's the tool of choice.
Regards...
sarge..jt
BG,
The only thing I'll add to your present responses is that I have had great results from the hand cut rasps from Lee Valley. The teeth are randomly spaced so no grooves result from heavy stock removal. And they work far better than the Nicholson Patternmaker's for much less money.
The Microplanes also work well to finish.
Richard
BG,
I use files very little but there are situations that require them. My favorite is a four-in-hand which I usually grab first. I also have a couple of flat bastard files in various roughnesses and a round and triangular file.
TDF
I can never remember Slav's whole name but he goes by Slav anyway. Most of the files he sells, new old stock, are no longer made. He works hard scowering long established industrial supply houses and hardware stores for these rare gems. I've bought a number of files from him and am very pleased to have them. Most of those who buy from him are luthiers searching for hard to find old files but he's developing a pretty good business with woodworkers. I'm still trying to figure out what files will work for a few very specific uses and then I'll call him. It's a good idea to know what you want when you talk to him. He has so many that when he starts making suggestions, it can get expensive. Not that he charges excessively as most of his files cost less than current production files you might otherwise buy.
Larry,
Bingo! Slav Jelesijevich, nice guy, very enthusiatic, tons of files...and that is why I am asking first...:-)
All,
This is very helpful, I appreciate the responses...I kinda thought they would play a much greater role in woodworking...especially in the final shaping of cravings and joinery. No one has mentioned the files that Slav showed me...Larry helped put that into perspective...they are fairly rare. Slav did have some files where they only cut on two sides...which might be handy for getting nibs out of dovtails, etc.
I do use the sandpaper..sometimes I put it around the file for strength/stiffness. I'll need to go slowly with purchases and check out the different sources. Thanks all
Unlike most your respondents I use files and rasps often, one of my interests being wood carving. I keep a sharp 14", 12", 10", 8" an;d ;6" halfrounds, plus several extra fine cuts in various sizes. I have only found such files at auctions, garage sales and flea markets. I am also fond of the Nicholson pattern-maker rasps. I think if one progresses through the sizes (which become progressively finer) one can keep detail better and obtain a better surface that with sand paper glued on a stick.
A good file or rasp should be treated like a fine tool and protected, rather than just throwing a bunch of them loose in a box under the bench.
BG,
I was snooping around Ebay, and saw these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2556651189&category=13876
You don't have to spend a bunch of money on good files. These probably are not exactly what you had in mind, but I bet you could find it there for cheap.
Steve
You know, when I do woodworking in the shop, I almost never reach for a file. I have all kinds laying around, but they just aren't a regular part of the arsenal. Conversely, when I'm in a house trimming, the files and coping saw have a permanant home on the saw stand. I clean up all the coped joints with the files. Half rounds, full rounds, different sizes. Just a couple of quick licks turns gaps into nice tight corners. I couldn't do crown without them. Probably the neatest files I have are gunsmith tools. I have what's called a bottoming file that looks like a square rasp on the end of an L shaped handle, for getting into the action area and bottoming out the tang and recoil lug areas, and a barrel rasp which looks like a U shaped piece of steel with a sandwich of steel and neoprene washers on it that you run down the barrel channel to shave it smooth when you're down to the final fit.
"The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb " lyrics by Roger Waters
BG,
I can't imaging trying to profile chair parts or contour a fair curve using sandpaper instead of rasps and files - time is too costly.
Like so many other posters, my Nicholson #49 and #50 patternmaker's rasps are indispensible; my only complaint is that the teeth do not extend completely to the edge of the rasp, which makes it necessary to use another tool when trying to rasp next to a perpendicular surface. Hand-cut rifflers are also handy, but can be hard to find. Machine-cut rifflers don't leave a smooth enough surface, IMO.
For a smooth surface that requires very little sanding, I like to progress from the #49 to the #50, and then to a Vixxen file which has curved, almost semi-circular, teeth that extend completely across the face of the file.
Vixxen files leave a very smooth surface on wood and metals, and are terrific for smoothing and leveling a brass wear plate and surrounding wood tissue in handmade spokeshaves, or making fine adjustments to the throat or chipbreaker of a hand plane, for example.
If you are trying to achieve the kind of faceted surface left by a spokeshave, you can go directly from a Nicholson to a spokeshave.
Hope this is helpful,
Paul
OK, Paul... What is a Vixxen file? I tries a search on Google, and got nothing but a list of porno sites.
Jeff
Vixen is a professional line from Nicholson file.
I found this listing for sale (no experience with retailer):
http://www.yardstore.com/tools/debur.htm#an14244
and on Ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3242435244&category=13869
Joe,
Thanks for clearing that up about the Vixxen Files. I had taken Jeff's suggestion and googled on vixxen...that was taking a long time to get through...checking every page, etc...whew!
Paul,
It appears what makes a Vixxen unique is the semi-circular pattern of the teeth on the file face. So we have teeth that are straight across, on an angle, single cut, double cut and, of course, various coarseness, sizes and then shapes. Can you share why you like the semi-circular over the angled or straight across?
BG,
I was digging through previous posts this morning and happened to come across your question - sorry for the delay; I wasn't ignoring you, just wasn't aware of your post. For some reason, Prospero no longer notifies me when someone adresses a response or query to me. Hmmmmm.
As to the reason I like the curved tooth profile of the Vixxen files, I'm not qualified to comment on any of the technical reasons why they work so well. The results, however, speak for themselves: they leave a very smooth surface with virtually no artifacts of the tool that produced the surface - unlike many other tools. Hope this is helpful.
Happy contouring,Paul
Paul,
Thanks for responding. I'm currently shoping the used maketplace and don't see them being offered. I may just buy a new one to see what its all about. thanks
I use a fine cut triangular rasp when necessary to clean up the insides of dovetails.
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