I’m in the process of making a maple head board. There are a few pieces of molding which I cannot glue and must rely on finish nails. I intend to match the stain and the finish to the much older bedroom pieces.
Question…what is the best way to fill the nail holes so they don’t show? Can I use sawdust and some type of glue?
Regards,
Clueless Cordless
Replies
The easiest way to get a good match is to use a filler crayon to fill the holes after you have completely finished the piece. Minwax and a few other companies make them. Sawdust and glue won't look anything like the surrounding wood and won't absorb the finish the same way.
John W.
Thank You!
When you say "completely finished piece" you mean to apply the finish poly before filling the holes? But what about the sheen?
Can I poly of the "crayon" material? It seems to me that apllying poly over the crayon would not only look more uniform but would wear better.
Thanks again.
Regards
I just finished installing an oak stair rail / bannister. I filled the holes left from a brad nailer with a Minwax crayon. They actually match crayons to their specific stains. I finished the rail with shellac, which has a similar sheen to poly (unless you are using a super glossy version). You cannot see the nail holes unless you know exactly where they are. After you rub a small amount of crayon in the nail hole, you burnish with a soft cloth. I actually used a soft paper towel (Scott Shop Rags). The burnishing action of the paper towel smoothes the crayon "plug" and the heat generated by the friction of burnishing leaves a sheen.
The crayons are generally used after the final coat of finish has dried, if you use them on raw wood the crayon will stain the wood around the hole and possibly affect any finish applied afterward. Their advantage, beyond ease of use, is that you can choose a color to very closely match the color of the surrounding wood which can vary from place to place on many woods.
The post from Ganderwood explains how the crayon filled holes pretty much disappear when burnished. If the crayon filler was in the middle of a very glossy table top it might be visible, but on a molding it should be virtually undetectable.
I don't know if you can apply a finish over a crayon but it isn't necessary.
John W.
Edited 12/13/2005 6:35 pm ET by JohnWW
Okay crayon filler it is!
Thanks everyone for the advice!
Regards,
The crayon type fillers (there are several variations) are great where speed is the priority. But there will be a sheen difference and finish will not stick to the wax type fillers. Also if the colour dosent match it is a lot harder to tint crayon filled holes. If the trim details are very visible or prominent then I would use a normal filler. There are great fillers for every species of wood out there. They dont accept stain perfectly, but the good ones are very close if you use dyes. Before I apply the finish if the stain looks off a little I use q-tips and stain to blend it in. It is not a big deal, takes only a few minutes and the results are INVISIBLE. Having said that I wonder if you really need nails. How about spring clamps, tape, CA glue, or rubber bands.
Mike
<It seems to me that apllying poly over the crayon would not only look more uniform but would wear better.>The crayons are wax and finish wont stick to them. aloha, mike
I've recently tried Minwax's new stainable wood filler and found it quite good. It accepted the dark walnut stain, blending in really well with the mahogany veneer. When I sprayed on my water-based topcoat, the filed areas were nearly impossible to spot - even though I knew where they were.
Try it on some scraps first, just to ensure it'll work for you.
Kampel Seamfil makes every color for use after finish. You can blend colors and get exact invisible fills. Befor finish products that work include latex color that are also blendable for exact tone. These require "hard" finishes for the best look. Kampel works the best though.
aloha, mike
You may wish to try Minwax's new stainable wood filler. I've successfully used it on a number of projects where I needed to hide the nail holes from my brad nailer. I also used it on the mahogany veneer drawer fronts of my desk and was happy with how it came out, even after spraying on the clear coat.
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