After doing my (late) research, I know this is NOT a unique or new issue and have learned PLENTY about how to do it differently next time.
SO, we made a mantle, filled the nail holes with wood filler, sanded down, stained, and BAM light spots over the “stainable” wood filler. I know the issue is that the filler closed the wood pores, won’t accept the stain, etc. Some have recommended digging it all out, and plugging the hole with the same wood as the rest of the mantle, but I’m really hoping we can just sand it down a lot more and the stain will set better. Thoughts? Hoping for recommendations on how to fix it now, as opposed to how to avoid it later. Thank you!!
Replies
That filler will never accept stain the same as the wood. It won't matter how much you sand and restrain.
There are ways to make them match, for now, at least. But as the wood ages, the color will change, but the color in the filler will not.
So you are saying there's nothing I can do at the point?
The filler color has to be as close as possible to the final stained wood color. There are wax- and sharpie-type pens and I have a few but frankly they never work for me. You can buy them in a set of 3-6 wood colors for around $10 and your can give it a try. You'll probably be more successful with actual paint. Dashner Design & Restoration (YouTube) uses paint regularly. Not just one color of say brown, but a few and a fine point brush, and you literally paint the wood color where the stain doesn't work.
What user-7529300 may be referring to is the use of artist oil paints. It has been a long time but I think the colors are raw sienna, burnt sienna & burnt umber. By mixing two or all three of these colors you can usually match just about any shade. It takes some experimentation.
Use a small brush to cover the area with a light coat. Then use a fan brush to feather the paint and blend it into the surrounding area. Feather with the grain and keep wiping the brush clean.
It is best to shoot for a color slightly darker than the piece you are repairing. Darker is less noticeable to the eye.
If you don't like how it looks, wipe it off immediately, adjust the color and try again. You won't get it right the first time.
If the grain is very prominent you can use a fine point brush and one of the dark colors to recreate the grain across your repair.
Give it a couple of days to dry before applying your finish.
Look for the paints where they sell hobby supplies. The prices are better than an art supply shop.
It's not as hard as it may sound.
What kind of wood filler did you use?
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Second on paint as an option. Typically I use acrylic. Starting with these basic colors...Titanium White, Oxide Yellow, Burnt Sienna, and Paynes Grey. Use additional colors as necessary to neutralize a hue etc. Add to this an acrylic gel/liquid medium which adds translucency. It is a lot easier than you think...with a little bit of practice.
Oil paints and tiny brushes are a good solution. Keep in mind that perfectly round patches of filler in nail holes draw the eye. When touching up with paints, make the shape slightly irregular, and use a different color to simulate grain running through the spot. That sort of camouflage with hide a nail hole better than trying to get an exact color match.
I've had good luck with coloured "Sharpies" Shade it in and wipe off until it blends with the stain colour.
I have painted over filler successfully in the past.
The problem is that the colour match is very difficult to achieve.
I used cheap, thin acrylic paint and picked three colours all around the right shade for the wood.
You have to blend a little of each until you get a close enough match. Not an issue if you screw up though - you can just paint over it again.
It is not difficult. I know this because it worked for me and I have absolutely no talent or ability with painting.
Unless it's been said, you could use Mixol or Japan colors and mix up the filler and color in a bowl so it's ready when you are.
I agree with changing the hole shape. Heck, if the holes are in a straight line you could make them different sizes, giving the illusion they're intentional and meant to be noticed. Or use lighter or darker filler.
Mikaol
Rob, I can't draw a straight line with a square & 3 day head start.
Mikaol
Yep, artists brushes and oil paints. Then a new top coat.
Find the sapwood . . .
Depending on how deep you filled, sanding it all back out might be a big bit of work.
I've touched up a lot of glue spots, filler holes and stuff over the years. Usually painting a solid color, with a small brush, and being a little artistic about it, over top of it has been my best solution. I've always used oil paint on oil stain, acrylic on water based stains. It might also depend on what top coat you were planning on using.
They are nefarious.
We need a "melt their computer" button. When they post ...
You can use furniture touch-up markers. First, try testing it on a hidden part of the furniture. Check if the color matches your furniture and see how fast it dries up. If you can’t find an exact match from the markers that are included, you can start applying the lightest shade first and then top it with a darker one. Keep on blending and mixing until you get the shade you want.
You can read more at: https://artltdmag.com/best-furniture-touch-up-markers/
I highly recommend that you use some raw wood dust from the project and combine it with Old Brown Glue as wood filler. Old Brown Glue takes stain fairly well.
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