All,
I’m about to finish a cabinet with 25 cubbie holes and made of baltic birch ply. My daughter wants it painted royal blue…inside and out. I have some tear out where I made the housed lap joints and dado’s. After sanding, would you suggest a wood filler on the tear out? …and what kind of filler? I’m planning on shellacing and then painting…high gloss. Possibly finish up with a poly…thanks
Replies
For plywood that will be painted I use Durham Rock Hard putty (I think that's what it's called). It comes in powder form and you just add water to make the right consistency.
BG, Just wondering why you're using shellac as a primer? Seems to me the top coat would apply to and adhere better to a good quality latex or oil based wood primer. As far as fillers, the Rock Hard will work, as well as about any commercial wood filler. I've even used Bondo Auto Body Filler for some rough outdoor projects that needed some major filling. It cures fast and hard with little shrinkage.
Ian
Iancummins,
I'm using the shellac because its left over from a project I did about 3 months ago. Also, I seen to get a better finish with high gloss paint with shellac as a base...perhpas because the shellac is fresher than the Bin stuff.
The cubbie holes (5x8x12") are made with 1/2" ply and subject to vibration...Do I have to worry the filler will become dislodged from the vibration?..the chips are about 1/64" deep in the ply
Edited 6/5/2003 11:07:25 AM ET by BG
BG, What's the source of the vibration? Are we talking stereo speaker vibration or freight train vibration? Bondo holds to smooth metal on cars (lots of vibration) and I think it would adhere even better to wood fibers. There are also epoxy fillers but I've never used them.
Iancummins,
The cubbie holes are to hold boxes of childrens' art stuff..crayons, crayolas, etc. in my daughters classroom. Because of the flexibility of the ply, and banging around of boxes sliding in and out, I would hate to the filler come loose and, of course, the paint comes with...all the filler would be near the jointed edge and probably I'm worring too much...
BG, as I recall the design discussion about those cubbies, I'm guessing the tear-out is on those dados. That is, the tear-out will be back inside the cubbies after you assemble them, rather than right on the front face. If that's true, there's nobody in the world (beside you) who will ever notice them. Furthermore, if the shelves and walls get slid together often, the filler might well get chipped out during assembly. How 'bout you just don't worry about it?
Jamie,
Your absolutely correct, the tearout is on the dados. However, given the fact that 4 of the boards (ply) are 42.5" long and the other 4 are 27.5 long...and my table goes up to 26"....and there is symmetry in the cuts...old smarty pants cut the dado's from both directions on the boards. Hence, I have tearout on the front tooooooo...rats!
One other point, me being a smarty pants of the first order, after cutting the 1/2" dado, I went back and cut a 3/8" through dado, centered on the 1/2" dado, to get the housed lap joint with some bite.
Edited 6/5/2003 6:41:50 PM ET by BG
Auto parts stores sell a "high build" primer used for filling up scratch marks in metals. A few coats might posibly fill in the marks. It comes in a rattle can and can be found near the other primers.
As for shellac, its quite a good primer. Ive used that zinsser white pigmented shellac primer for many things, especially MDF and ive gotten great results.
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