Replies

1. 
   woodhoarder | Mar 08, 2005 05:30pm | #1

   Wow, it sounds like your wife knows what she likes!

1. 
   user-72898 | Mar 09, 2005 03:44pm | #6

   Thanks woodhoarder

   My wife always knows exactly what she wants but that usually means getting a company in to do the job immediately at great expense. My method is to gradually wear her down to accept a better slower but custom built job. It doesn't always win brownie points early on. I hope to survive long enough to organize the various tasks that have been set for our future pleasure!!

2. 
   Pondfish | Mar 08, 2005 05:49pm | #2

   With a poly finish down first, I don't see how an additional oil finish application makes sense, as it cannot be absorbed into the wood.  Oil/Varnish finishes initially penetrate the wood slightly, but subsequent application layers are only adding extremely thin films on top of the previous layer.  With poly already sealing the wood, the oil won't penetrate into the wood, it will only act as a film.  You might as well stick with the poly to build up the finish more efficiently.

   I agree with the previous poster that your wife sounds like she knows what she wants.  That doesn't mean what she wants makes any sense.  Being firm in your beliefs and wants does not make you right!

1. 
   user-72898 | Mar 09, 2005 03:27pm | #4

   Thanks for your comment- I agree that on top of polyurethane the oil can't possibly penetrate the wood but the rubbing back on top of the synthetic finish may use the oil as a sort of wet sanding agent to impart the final lustre.

   What I am trying to work out though is whether having a so called impregnable waterprooof barrier which could conceivably be scratched or affected by a red hot baking pan placed on it is superior to an oiled surface which has less protection but can be more easily repaired by sanding and re oil finishing. Kind regards

1. 
   Rich14 | Mar 09, 2005 06:56pm | #7

   Richard,You seem determined to fight losing battles all alround. The marital problem, I'll not offer any advice.For the kitchen, you are planning on using all the wrong materials. And they will fail. Sorry.Wood is the wrong surface for hot pans or anything that can seriously scratch. Period.No varnish will stand up to the abuse you propose and an oiled finish will simply fry under a hot pan and the wood will suffer as though there were no finish at all. Sanding won't be an option after several such punishments.You will diligently have to use trivets or your surface will be a disaster.Rich

   Don't ever learn anything new. Rather than give you satisfaction that you know more than you did, it will only confirm you know less than you thought by opening horizons to things of which you had never dreamt and which you now must explore.

3. 
   cicero | Mar 08, 2005 10:14pm | #3

   I would suggest,I suppose I would,as I am about to do the same as you except in Rimu,a local timber,that you put on a 2 pack sealer and finish with a pre cat lacquer.

   This makes it waterproof, which I think is required on kitchen benches.

1. 
   user-72898 | Mar 09, 2005 03:34pm | #5

   Thanks

   Is a 2 pot formulation more resistant than 1 pot modern polyurethanes? The floor finishing guys tell me that there is not much difference in hardness and scratch resistance... or is that just for them to sell me something easier for them. Kind regards.

1. 
   cicero | Mar 09, 2005 10:29pm | #8

   Rich14 is right re difficulty of maintainence,formica,marble ,granite etc are the best for ease of use.

   Re is two pot better,I go to the maker of finishers,who have to take responsiblity for there advice,they say use the two pot when the surface is going to be subject washing down etc.

   Ihave used it on the shelf that stands above the work bench and it is as good 10 years down the track as when first I did it.

1. 
   qldwoodie | Mar 10, 2005 01:05am | #9

   Well, conventional wisdom aside, I was pursuaded to do a wood bench top about 9 years ago for my sister.  Wood is Australian Lacewood  - not particularly hard. Finished it with single-pack poly.  It still looks as good as the day it was done, to my surprise (it hasn't been cosseted).  I did another kitchen with a conventional laminated top around the same time.  It's had a bit of a rougher life, to be sure, but it looks in much worse shape.  Did another in Jarrah about 6 years ago, and it's standing up particularly well.  Had a bit of a problem getting the poly to flow on that one - don't really know why.  Since then have been using the wipe-on technique - gives a nice surface, but not as tough as the brushed-on mainly because it's thinner, I expect.

   Having started out against wood for bench tops, I've become something of a convert.  Well done, they look so much friendlier, and if it becomes necessary, you can resurface a wood top, with a lot less fuss and bother than replacing a tiled-in laminated MDF thing....

   Try a wiped-on poly finish (start with the poly thinned at least 50%).  Takes at least 8-10 coats to get a film, (absolutely no brush marks!) If you keep the build low, it may give SWMBO what she has in mind, though might need refreshing more often.

   Cheers,

   IW