i plan to build a picket fence approximately 100ft. and would like the following questions answered:
- Which wood would be advisable?
- Is there a synthetic wood suitable for this?
- What paint would you use?
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Replies
I'd use treated lumber for the posts (although one can debate the environmental aspects of this) and western red cedar for everything else. Consider stainless steel for the nails, although hot dipped galvanized are OK.
Painting a picket fence is an exercise in futility; I'd probably use a white stain- it will look better as it weathers. It won't last as long as paint, but it will protect the wood. When you have to restain (probably every 2 or 3 years, instead of 4 or so for paint) you won't have to scrape and prep- just apply more stain after washing the fence. This is overall a better look and less work.
Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
I went with white cedar because that is native to my area and stained with an Olympic Oil stain.
Garry
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Nice fence. I'm originally from New England, and Maine (northern) white cedar is a favorite of mine- but I have difficulty finding it here in PA. You obviously have a talent with it. Now, how about some "New Dawn" climbing roses along that arbor...Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
I'd use treated lumber for the posts (although one can debate the environmental aspects of this) and western red cedar for everything else. Consider stainless steel for the nails, although hot dipped galvanized are OK. galvanized WILL make rust stains after awhile.. Stainless or if you have deep pockets get bronze screws used in boats.. REALLY expensive but last forever! I used stainless steel screws.. Not the ones made in China.. I think they were 404 stainless?? I forget..
..
NOT fightin' anybody... BUT...I have a cedar fence.. About 40 years old now.. YES I'm still in the first house I bought...I used cedar for the posts and for the fencing..I dug the post holes (by hand with a post hole digger).. Gave up and rented a power auger.. I think with a 10" bit.. I went 'way' below freeze depth (Chicago here.. As I recall 48" in the minimum.. I went way deeper... Put large gravel in the holes to to 48" depth then packed the cedar posts from there with pea gravel mixed with cement..I think I used Olympic? transparent stain.. Hose down, dry for a day or two, and Spray about every 5 years.. Two coats wet-on-wet..Looks almost as good as it was a year later.. NOT the first year...
Will,
I also prefer SS, but if you fill the nail holes with latex compound, you can use galvanized. For the modest additional cost, SS is worth it, particularly when you consider the labor of putting up a fence.
I've heard of different takes on about filling post holes with pea gravel, sand, etc. The consensus is that if the earth around the post is well drained, you don't need to; if it stays wet, gravel won't help (i.e. wet gravel is no kinder to wood than wet clay).
I'm curious about your exerience with an auger. I too have dug many fence holes... is the auger a significant help? What about in stony soil? Is it a two man operation? Your thoughts would be appreciated...Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
Lots of clay soil in the Midwest - Auger is the only way to go.
I built a 6 foot shadowbox fence and had to go at least 30" deep to beat the frost line. No way could I have done it by hand.
Heck, I rented a 2 man auger at first, but it couldn't get all the way down. Had to go back to Home Depot and rent the 12hp tow-behind model and have 4 of us jump up and down on it to break through the clay.
At least I didn't have rocks...
I did a fence with a power auger.. I tried it alone.. DON'T!.. LOLAll posts were 48 inches deep.. There were about 60 of them.. Good old Post-hole digger but the auger type that you 'screw' down.. Hade a solid metal shaft so you could hit the top with a Mall to 'make' it go a bit deeper.. However, I was ALOT younger then!
Did mine 2 weeks ago with a one man power auger- 9 post holes at 30" deep. Not an adventure I am planning to repeat any time soon...Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
Ditto, used a one man auger and the damn thing screwed itself in the ground and the motor and or clutch on the thing didn't have the uuump to pull itself out the ground. Tried to literally jack the thing out of the ground which didn't work and broke the jack for my F-150.
Okay, I'm an idiot. I have a picture or two of me trying to jack this doo hickey out of the ground. Should be good for a few laughs if I post 'em.
You've really got to listen to how the motor sounds. Plunge a little in, a little bogging down, pull up real fast!!!
So there I have an auger stuck in the ground. Disconnect it from the rest of the machine and take two pairs of visegrips and clamp on to top of auger. Notice that I am not the only one who has done this as evidenced by the tooth marks. Basically, make a T-handle with the vise grips and unscrew this infarnal gadgett out of the ground by HAND. Not once, not twice but at least three times.
But getting back to a wood fence, I'm thinking if you get the right kinda drill bits you can drill a hole up through the bottom of the post. In this hole, you'll stick a galvanized anchor chain fence post, cut to whatever appropriate length. screw through wooden post into the metal post. Sink metal post end into the hole filled with concrete trying to keep the wood from actually contacting the concrete when it is cured. And plum in both directions and or stringline from corner to corner first.
I'd use SS screws. That way a few years down the road you can take the thing apart and sand the pickets while they are laying flat on a bench/over a pair of saw horses. Or better yet, feed 'em through a drum/ wide belt sander. And then paint or stain at the saw horses. Much easier on your back and knees.
Osage would work really well for posts just stuck in the ground. Highly rot resistant. Cypress, cedar are next. Keeping any and all up off the ground/concrete will help prolong their service lives.
Wear a dust mask when cutting/sanding cedar, even if you're outside. A respiratory ailment could pop up a couple weeks later without one, or you could have a severe acute allergic reaction so bad that you'll never ever be able to work any kinda wood again!
Chills
do a google search of Walpole Woodworks. Lotsa good ideas there for design and quality construction techniques.
Digging post holes is a pain in the kester I have seen some people with a auger rig on the front of a jeep they just drive from spot to spot. Would be worth every penny to pay for that if you have challanging soil. I have had some sucseess in the past by drilling the postholes wet when the soil was to clay like. Also like to use Simpson CB44 or CB66 post hangers set in concrete then the wood does not touch the ground. Simpson does not recomend them for this purpose but they work great.Good luck
Troy
30" frost line
Whoa what land do you live in. Here in Manitoba I need to bury my water lines 96" to beat the frost. And sometimes that isn't deep enough.
Derek
I used cedar and just power wash it every couple years-
cypress, white stain or letting it turn silver.
Jim,
I think I'd use exterior-grade opaque stain instead of paint. There are numerous pros over at Breaktime who specialize in outdoor structures.
I recall reading about a two person painting crew that specialized in fences; if I recall correctly the names were Tom & Huck, though they may be preoccupied by water sports and other outdoor adventures at this time of year.
Good luck,
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
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